Ford

Have Ford questions? Ask a mechanic for answers ASAP

Ask an Expert,
Get an Answer ASAP!

This answer was rated:

2005 f150 5.4 225,000 miles. It has a really bad bog at 1/4…

2005 f150 5.4 225,000...

2005 f150 5.4 225,000 miles. It has a really bad bog at 1/4 throttle. Comes up lean bank 1 and 2

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your F150 yourself? What have you tried so far?

Yes, No vacuum leaks found, FP 39-42. New timing chain and componants, new throttle body, tryed new app sensor. My modis says app 3 volts should be above what it is at rest. Its at .95 volts. This other car you did I am looking at says .64-1.28 is spec.

Mechanic's Assistant: How many miles on the car? How responsive has your car been lately?

225,000. Cam in with the phazers clacking, bogging, and lean codes. Also had a po446, but that was fixed by cleaning a corroded connector under the cab

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Yes, i scope the app voltage. and notice irregularities in the signal. Referance voltage is stable.

Show More
Show Less
Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
if you slowly apply the pedal, you can accelerate normally. Hard starting, and disconnecting the cam sensors seem to help it start quicker. tryed new and rebuilt APP sensor, same voltage out of it.New mass air and FRP sensor too.
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Came in with one dead upstream o2 sensor also, put in 2 new sensors, did multiple kam resets and idle learn,. I have a snap on modis.
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
desired and actual throttle % is off when it bogs by more than 5% some times 20 plus percent. Installed and cleaned a differant throttle body, no change.
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Fuel trims are fairly good at idle and slow acceleration. Its only when you get into it about 1/4 throttle that they peg positive, and end up setting lean codes. New fuel filter and volume seemed ok on key up. New dorman FPCM also, old was was corroded.
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
raising the fuel pump duty cycle from 22 at idle to 100 percent does nothing either. on a mech gauge, pressure shoots pat 60 on key up and settles 35-39
Answered in 4 hours by:
6/30/2018
HDGENE
HDGENE, Ford Senior Master/Diesel/Trans
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 6,761
Experience: 28 years Auto experience, Ford ,GM, Chrysler, Asian & European
Verified

Hello, and thank you for using Just Answer! My name is***** me a few moments to review your question and Ill do my best to assist you.

Ask Your Own Ford Question

Hello, so you replaced the phasers when you did the timing chain? Did the inside of the engine look clean or have sludge build up? Have you checked engine oil pressure and did you also replace the vct's?

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
engine was clean, new phazers/vct's. It did have broken guides.

Ok what kind of oil pressure do you have? No codes are stored now, it passes a key on engine off and a key on engine running on demand test with a scan tool? I cant tell anything from your forscan photo, its just lines of the ppids you selected. I cant tell readings or what ones you are looking at.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
oil pressure was 30 warm at idle. I installed new upgraded melling pump too. only code set no is p1000 monitors not ready. no codes set koeo or koer test, only lean bank 1 and 2 after driving for about 20 min. Forscan pids are as followed top to bottom: ETC actual, ETC desired, APP %, App 1v, App1%, App2, App 2%, App3, App3% App fault, App mode, MAF

Ok I cent tell what the pid readings you snapshotted are. All I see is colored lines with no references. Any way, so bank 1 is lean, what are the short and long term fuel trims for both banks? It drives fine when you get past the part throttle area that it looses power in?

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
The actual throttle and desired are usually off when it bogs. You can see the desired ( second line) has a dip that doesnt match actual( the line above) I can send a screen capture if you want? I dont see a area to send pics anymore. At idle, st/lt are pretty stable, bouncing +/- 5%. When I give it gas, short term go to + 25, even 45 in some cases ( don't know if thats a glitch) Yes, if I ease into it, it will cruise for about 10 or so minutes, give or take, then just start to decelerate down to 20-30mph. No other warning lights.

Im mainly interested in the long term fuel trim at idle, if it is more than 10 or not positive/negative. If it is, then it is compensating for a vacuum leak/lean condition. short term runs the opposite of the oxygen sensors, so that will fluctuate and bounce around as you accelerate. So you had the cylinder heads off also and had a valve job and guides replaced? If so have you run a compression test? There should be a paper clip icon above the text box to attach photos.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Ive reset Kam so many times, and havent driven it too much. LT hasnt really set, but if memory serves me right, it never was over 10 at idle, though I can recheck it. Intake was smoked and sprayed down with starting fluid. I also clamped off vacuum lines, no change. I DID NOT have the heads off, so no head work. I have not done a copression check, because of the spark plugs possibly breaking. It sounds perfectly normal turning over. Do you want me to run out and check trims at idle? I do not see a paperclip icon.

Ok, if you didnt have the heads off, how did the broken valve guides get fixed or when? What is the load pid at idle?

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
It was the timing chain guides that were broke. I think load waas in the teens at idle. It is really hard starting when cold. Starting fluid doesnt help. Disconnecting cam sensors helps to start for sme reason, and giving it throttle while cranking. You want me to go run it again cold?
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
i just plled up a vid I made yesterday, LT trim +5 short term dont seem to go over 5+ revving it up etc dsd and act are off tho, even after different app sensor
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
i am uploading it to youtube so you can see it

Load should be close to 18 when warmed up, if it is less, there is a vacuum leak somewhere. The 90 degree elbow at the left rear of the intake that goes to the brake booster is a common hose to see pop off or have issues with, and could set lean codes both banks. 3 things set lean codes. a vacuum leak, a weak fuel pump or an issue with the mass air flow sensor. You should see a vacuum leak when you smoke tested it. So the question comes down to with that many miles if you also replaced the vct solenoids and cleaned the oil passage valve body for the vct. If all that checks out ok you will want to run a compression test. Run a relative injector flow test and power balance test. Your modis probably wont support those tests. The valves are known for issues and the main bearings wear out and cause a loss of oil pressure under a load. The app may have a dirty signal but as long as the increase as you accelerate is fairly constant it should be ok You can overlay the circuit from the pedal to the pcm if doubtful.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
The 2005 doesnt have that elbow, I know the one your talking about. I tried 2 MAF, they are aftermarket, but fall well in spec and the sig looks good.I DID not clear VCT gallerys, however, it was very clean, and motor is quiet.Your right, modis doesnt do those test, how ever, I did the old school power balance, and unplugged injectors one at a time with notable change.Here is the vid from yesterday, idle, and giving it gas to recreate bog. I think it was warm. Would a relative compression check with a ampprobe be sufficient? FP is 38-42 at idle, and i crank up the duty cycle, and no change.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyDAnUkY_yg
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
with NO notable change
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
youtube compressed the hell out of that vid. Left top to bottom. IMRC, IMRC volt, LT trim1, LT trim 2, MAF, ST trim1 ST trim2. Right colum ECT act
ETC desired, Maf, Maf volt, baro, maf

Duty cycle will not really show a change in performance, the pcm should adjust the injector pulse width based on engine load. yes not a very good quality video to view.You want to see actual engine compression as well as possibly run a running compression test which means pull the plugs. If they are worn out or break they should be replaced anyways. Worn plugs can cause all sorts or odd running issues.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I agree with plugs, however I'm so deep in this thing, Id hate to change them with no change,Youll see trims dont go hard +, yet the bog is slightly there. The ETC numbers are off quite a bit tho, just like the graph i sentCan low copression cause a lean condition under certain conditions?

absolutely if there is a valve issue. Its hard to see what you are seeing. All I can tell you is basic stuff to check from here. You need to let this truck run long enough to get more test readings.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
ok, I can start it right now if your gonna be up for a bit? What readings do you want to see that I can access?

I want to know if it is really running lean or not. then what the phasers are doing at the time of the loss of power. ALong with the fuel rail pressure and load at idle when hot.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I also put a vac gauge on it and it was steady as a rock. When it bogged tho, vaccuum did not drop.
fuel rail pressure hot is 38-42, never misses a beat. You want me to warm it up? I cant cdrive it right now, but it could idel

Yes and run a key on engine running test when hot.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
ok ill do that

No problem, ill be up awhile, if not Ill pick up tomorrow

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Idle hot0
koer/koeo P1000
Idle app mode: no pedal
APP3 is showing .94 on modis, yet test at 1.01 at the wire ( white/red stripe)
Load 15%
ETC demanded 1.50 Actual 1.47
IMRC 5.11
MAF 4.78
Tourque 8.1
STFT -7 both sides
LTFT +5/+6
VCtad -1.93 to .50
VCT2 -.06 to 2.06
Vctverrr 1.13 to -50
Vctvrr2 -2.06- ro .5Off idle, 1/4 throttle at bog
Load 12-58
ETC actual/desired off by 6ish degrees
IMRC off .02/.04
MAF 10ish gps
STFT 2-10+ both sides
LTFT 0-6+ both sides
Tourque 162-273
Fuel pressure 36-45 desired 39
Vct adv -1.92
VCT adv2 13-16+
Vctaddrr -22 to -6
Vctrr2 -22 to -6
Vct DC 50-72
Vctdc2 60

Ok very good, take a break for the evening, I need to take a closer look at the vct specs you have there. So how did it drive otherwise when hot, once you got past that bog point it runs ok? Ill pick up on this late tomorrow morning. For the most part the basic stuff looks ok.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
slow apply of the throttle will let you accelerate to 60 ish mph. How ever, randomly it will act like you let off the gas, and slow down to 20 ish mph. I have to pull over and even slower apply the throttle to get going again, very wierd
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Another therory I was chasing is that the ircm flaps are slightly stuck open. The irmc opens, however opening voltage fluctuates 0.02-0.04. it moves freely, wires are good, and I sucked in some bk product through the brake hose and water with no change.
Everything you describe points to vct phasers operation/timing. I would change the vct solenoids and retest. Make sure timing is correct on the chains. In one vehicle the camshafts dowel pin was worn on the cam face and allowed the cam gear to shift
Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I will check the timing, anyway to do that with front cover on? Vct solenoids are new dorman, doesn't mean they are good tho. What vct data points the most at the problem? I've done these motors before, however this is my first possible vct problem.
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I inspected the dowl pin holes on the camshaft during assembly, and they were good. Doesn't mean they are now tho
Not really to check the crank. Dorman part can go either way.the hard starting cold and lack of power point to timing. A compression test will check that. Vct operation is pointed to with the part throttle loss of power. Oil pressure control of the vct
Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I'll double check oil pressure too, I haven't checked it since I put the high volume oil pump. Would disconnecting the vct solenoids tell you anything as long as phazers don't knock?
A drop in the but you have a problem under load the vct numbers don't look right
Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I won't be able to compression check for a few days, however, I hooked up my vac gauge to the brake booster. 26 in @idle. Shows no sign of a shake or exaust restriction. However, it doesn't drop significantly when you stab the throttle, no matter how much you do. Bog or no bog. How I'd that possible? I did not drive with the gauge.
too high, vale timing off can cause higher than normal engine vacuum. you should have around 18-20 inches max. It should change with rpm. Unless you checked it after the check valve, that would keep it solid but still too high
Ask Your Own Ford Question

Sorry, valve timing would not be that high, but check your reading at a different source like the vacuum hose going to the fuel rail pressure sensor.

Engine Speed=Reading=Indication of Engine Condition
Smooth and steady idle (800 to 1200 RPM)=Between 17 to 21 inches=Engine is in Good Condition, but perform next test to be sure.

Open and close throttle quickly=Jumps from 2 to about 25 inches=Engine is in Good Condition.

Smooth and steady idle=Steady, but lower than normal reading=Worn rings, but perform next test to be sure.

Open and close throttle quickly=Jumps from 0 to 22 inches=Confirms worn rings.

Steady idle=Intermittent dropping back 3 or 5 divisions and returns to normal=Sticky Valves. If injection of penetrating oil into intake manifold temporarily stops pointer from dropping back, it's certain the valves are sticking.

Steady 3000 RPM=Pointer fluctuates rapidly, faster engine speed causes more pointer swing=Weak valve springs.

Steady idle=Fast fluctuation between 14 to 19 points Worn intake valve stem guides.

Excessive pointer vibration at all speeds indicates a leaky head gasket.

Steady idle=Constant drop=Burnt valve or insufficient tappet clearance holding valve partly open or a spark plug occasionally miss firing.

Steady idle=Steady 8 to 14 inches=Incorrect valve timing. It must also be remembered that vacuum leaks and/or poor compression can result in a low vacuum reading.

Steady idle=Steady 14 to 16 inches=Incorrect ignition timing.

Steady idle=Drifting from 14 to 16 inches=Plug gaps too close or points not synchronized.

Steady idle=Drifting 5 to 19 inches=Compression leak between cylinders.

Steady idle=Steady below 5 inches=Leaky manifold or carburetor gasket, or stuck manifold heat control valve.

Steady idle=Floats slowly between 12 and 16 inches=Carburetor out of adjustment.

Blipping engine speed=Quick drop to zero then return to normal reading=Muffler is clear.

Blipping engine speed=Slow drop of pointer then slow return to normal reading=Muffler is choked or blocked.

A good vacuum gage and this chart can go a long ways to helping solve a lot of engine troubles.
---------

Vacuum Readings

[www.ifsja.org/tech/motors/vacuum.shtml]
Normal vacuum: All motors regardless of number of cylinders all have about the same vacuum. 15 to 20 inches of mercury (in-Hg) At wide open throttle (WOT) it will approach 0. On deceleration it can briefly go as high as 25 to 28 in-Hg. I think higher compression motors are at the high end while our big lumbering 360;s are middle to low end with 454's being the lowest. Don't quote me on that. For every 1000 feet above sea level, normal readings will drop 1 in-Hg Cranking vacuum: 1-4 in-hg when cranking with the ignition disabled and throttle at WOT.

Operating vacuum: 15-20 in-Hg at idle. 19-21 in-Hg at steady 2500 rpm. About 0 at WOT. 25-28 while decelerating. In all cases the needle should be fairly steady.

Low stead reading: Leaking gasket carb base, leaky vacuum hose (biggest FSJ problem), late ignition timing or late crankshaft timing (jumped timing chain?)

Low fluctuating needle: Needle fluctuates three to eight inches below normal. Suspect a leak in the intake manifold gasket.

Regular drops: Two to four inch consistent drop. Likely a leaking valve. Perform a leakdown and compression check to isolate the bad valve.

Irregular drops: Two to four inch occasional drop. Sticking valve or ignition misfire. Do a leakdown and compression check as well as inspecting the plugs for fouling.

Rapid vibration: A rapid 4 in variation at idle combined with exhaust smoke indicate worn valve guide. Perform leakdown test to confirm. If rapid vibration occurs with an increase in engine speed, check for a leaking intake manifold gasket or head gasket, weak valve springs burned valve or ignition misfire.

Slight fluctuation: A slight 1 inch fluctuation may mean ignition problems Check all tune up items and try an ignition analyzer.

Large fluctuation: Perform compression or leakdown test to find a weak or dead cylinder or blown head gasket.

Slow Hunting: Needle moves slowly through a wide range. Check for clogged PCV, incorrect idle mixture or carb to manifold gasket leaks.

Slow return after revving: Snap throttle to WOT until engine at 2500 rpm. then release. Vacuum should drop to 0 then go to 25-28 then back down to normal. If vacuum returns slowly and doesn't peak the rings may be worn. If there is a long delay, look for a restricted exhaust. If the exhaust seems restricted, disconnect at manifold and repeat the now loud test.
----------------

Vacuum Pressure levels

[ autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa042603a-02.htm ]

At idling speed, an engine at sea level should show a steady vacuum reading between 14" and 22" HG. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause vacuum to drop below 5" then rebound to 23" or more.

With the engine idling, continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. Check the spark plugs, spark plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may be sticking valves.

Vacuum readings at idle much lower than normal can indicate leakage through intake manifold gaskets, manifold-to-carburetor gaskets, vacuum brakes or the vacuum modulator. Low readings could also be very late valve timing or worn piston rings.

Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage:

With the engine Idling, the vacuum gauge pointer will drop sharply, every time the leak occurs. The drop will be from the steady reading shown by the pointer to a reading of 10" to 12" Hg or less. If the leak Is between two cylinders, the drop will be much greater. You can determine the location of the leak by compression tests.

Fuel Control System Troubles:

All other systems in an engine must be functioning properly before you check the fuel control system as a cause for poor engine performance. If the pointer has a slow floating motion of 4" to 5", you should check the fuel control.
------------

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Good call on the check valve, didn't even think of that...Removing the valve, causes 23" at idle, and it DOES change with rpm. How ever, doing the 2500-3500 exhaust check causes a pretty slow vac build up after releasing the throttle. I've never had lean codes with plugged exhaust( just rich) I think Ill do a back pressure check too, what do you think?

Here is a chart of the reference values to check on.I was going to say you might want to check the cats and that would be something that is also a common issue to see plugged cats.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Hello, I removed the converters. One was blown out the back, the other was broken in the middle. I only ran it shortly, and it's tons better, however there is still a slight hesitation. I plan on realearning Kam. If its good, I'll close out the question, is that ok?
Absolutely. Sounds like you are on the right track!
Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Removed cats, one was blown out the back, the other one broken insideStarts right up now, no hard start. Did idle learn, however, it still jumps to 2000 on start up, and settlesStill bogs, but differently. When cruising at 50-60 in top gear, ANY slight throttle tip in causes a bog, no matter how slow. Can hear backfires in exaust now that it's straight pipeWhat the heck is my next step?

Restart all diagnostics from scratch. run on demand tests. Check fuel pressure data when it looses power etc.Check throttle position data and throttle pedal data.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I did compression in cyl #1 ( the plug did break) I got 210 and still was climbing. I stopped because it did a big backfire through the exaust, with fuel disabled. Just #1 plug was out.A guy at oriellys said he's seen these specific Ford's run really poorly when you remove be the cats. Claims the downstream sensors may be used for fuel trim calculation, and said he's seen it multiple times. Hard to believe, but what do you think?

Not really, yes it changes backpressure of course, it gives it less. The upstream does the main calculation the downstream is just what it is called an catalytic MONITOR. It monitors the operation of how the cat is cleaning. If the engine fired then you must have had other coils plugged in and fuel entered a cylinder for it to backfire. Checking one cylinder doesnt give the engine a clean bull of health. The point of the compression test is to compare all cylinders as well as general cylinder power.

HDGENE
HDGENE, Ford Senior Master/Diesel/Trans
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 6,761
Experience: 28 years Auto experience, Ford ,GM, Chrysler, Asian & European
Verified
HDGENE and 87 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Ask your own question now
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I've been driving it San with the cats removed it seems to be running lean on bank 2 only. I can still hear small backfires and the pipe I replace the cat with.I pulled the injectors and tested. I open them with the battery and tried to push detergent through them one was actually stuck open. I replaced that one and now using a jewelry cleaner and cleaning the injectors to get flow.Using a borescope, I look down the injector hold at the intake valves. They are very clean. However I cannot seem to locate that I am RC flapper door on either Bank. I should be able to see those through the injector hole correct? I move it in the back of the manifold and I seen nothing and a possible they broke apart and got sucked in or am I just missing them? Thank you for your help

They are in the intake manifold, you wont see them through the injector hole most likely.Injector flow can be an issue, but there is no way to flow test it without a dealer style scan tool. You could also do a relative compression test with it also But if you still have an issue. The spark plugs are old, this is the most common cause of random misfires and running issues and should at least be replaced. Then while out you can do a compression test etc to check the engine health.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
It ran better, but missed/bucked in overdrive. It finally missed at idle, and I unplugged #7 coil and it made no change.I pulled #7 plug, it had a big carbon track! Replaced plug and coil, and it ran worse.....Pulled the next plug on that side (it broke,) and it was carboned tracked too! I'm gonna replace that whole side, and see what happens. Fuel trims improved by about 10 percent with the back yard injector cleanerSorry this is taking so long, and thanks for your help!

Not a problem, yes these plugs are the biggest issue if they are old. They will cause random misfires as will poor injector flow. If you need more help just let me know.If I was helpful, please use the 5 stars to leave a positive rating.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Ok I'll close it out one more questionWhat's the best way to get these plug out? I've tried Ford's way, decorbonize and cold eng, and hot with a impact, both times they broke. Thank you

Lisle makes a spark plug removal tool when they break, you might be able to rent it from a local auto parts store but it will be used and abused. Follow the instructions for using the tool andthey should come out .

Ask Your Own Ford Question

Ive always done them with the engine red hot and a 3/8 impact gun

Ask Your Own Ford Question

Hello, do you need more help with this concern?

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I do unfortunately sorry,
I've changed almost all the plugs on bank 2. One only broke however, there's one that just seems to spin in the head. I can touch with my fingers and wiggle the porcelain a little bit but using a magnet or Appliance I cannot pull it all the head. Putting a 9/16 socket on it I can turn it all day and it still doesn't come out. What the heck's going on?

Did the top part of the spark plug come out or the upper part is just spinning?

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
After I sent that, the 9/16 threaded part came out. What's left is all the porcelain and the part that goes into the head. What's the next step? Do I break off the porcelain and use the Lisle tool?

Yes

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Okay thank you for your help I should be able to close this out in the next day or two sorry it's taking so long

Not a problem, just following up because the question was timed out.

Ask Your Own Ford Question
Was this answer helpful?

How JustAnswer works

step-image
Describe your issueThe assistant will guide you
step-image
Chat 1:1 with a ford mechanicLicensed Experts are available 24/7
step-image
100% satisfaction guaranteeGet all the answers you need
Ask HDGENE Your Own Question
HDGENE
HDGENE
HDGENE, Ford Senior Master/Diesel/Trans
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 6,761
6,761 Satisfied Customers
Experience: 28 years Auto experience, Ford ,GM, Chrysler, Asian & European

HDGENE is online now

A new question is answered every 9 seconds

How JustAnswer works:

  • Ask an ExpertExperts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional AnswerVia email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site. Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction GuaranteeRate the answer you receive.

JustAnswer in the News:

Ask-a-doc Web sites: If you've got a quick question, you can try to get an answer from sites that say they have various specialists on hand to give quick answers... Justanswer.com.
JustAnswer.com...has seen a spike since October in legal questions from readers about layoffs, unemployment and severance.
Web sites like justanswer.com/legal
...leave nothing to chance.
Traffic on JustAnswer rose 14 percent...and had nearly 400,000 page views in 30 days...inquiries related to stress, high blood pressure, drinking and heart pain jumped 33 percent.
Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.
I will tell you that...the things you have to go through to be an Expert are quite rigorous.

What Customers are Saying:

AlvinC answered a question about my Ford truck that only someone with an in-depth knowledge of his subject would have known what was going on.

Rich DUSA

Because of your expertise, you armed me with enough ammunition to win the battle with the dealer. They are installing a fuel filter and fuel pump at no charge to me.

MollyUSA

I needed help with my car on Saturday morning....got a response in 5 minutes, and it was the perfect solution. Thanks again to your service.

Jason V.Kirkland, WA

I do know, after going though this with JustAnswer, that I can somewhat trust my mechanic but I will always contact you prior to going there.

BRNew Jersey

I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time. Thanks, and be sure that I'll be back whenever I need a question answered in a hurry.

Stephanie PElm City, NC

used your service this weekend with "Trecers" help. thank you ,thank you, thank you. replaced an A/C fan motor. Local Auto Zone had part. $15.00 "tracer" fee and $40.00 for parts, I saved several hundreds of dollers at a shop. i will recommend you and use you in the future.

David L.Richmond, TX

9 dollars, 2 hours of my time, and I drove away. Your diagnosis was right on the mark. Thank you so much.

PhilMarysville, CA

< Previous | Next >

Meet the Experts:

Ron

Ron

ASE Certified Technician

25,182 satisfied customers

23 years with Ford specializing in drivability and electrical and AC. Ford certs and ASE Certs

Chris (aka- Moose)

Chris (aka- Moose)

Technician

29,223 satisfied customers

16 years experience

John Mc

John Mc

Ford Technician

5,495 satisfied customers

19 years Ford Lincoln Mercury experience

Chuck

Chuck

ASE Certified Technician

1,685 satisfied customers

33 Years Experience,Ford Senior Master,ASE Master,L1 Advanced Engine Performance

Cam

Cam

Journeyman Automotive Technician

10 satisfied customers

GM Grand Master Technician 2007. 14 years Automotive experience.

Mike V.

Mike V.

Auto Service Technician

1,591 satisfied customers

25 years experience on all makes and models, Licensed NYS Inspector.

Richard

Richard

ASE Certified Technician

1,524 satisfied customers

12 years at a Ford Lincoln/Mercury and Jaguar dealer as a technician and shop foreman.

< Previous | Next >

Related Ford Questions
Wont start like its flooded when it sits overnight. Not a
wont start like its flooded when it sits overnight … read more
eric remington
eric remington
FORMER SHOP OWNER/TECHNICIAN/INSPECTOR
associates degree
1,230 satisfied customers
Second opinion] I need to start know how to test an APP
Second opinion] I need to start know how to test an APP sensor on a 2006 Ford Fusion.… read more
Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose)
Technician
Vocational, Technical or Trade School
29,223 satisfied customers
I have a ford 2004 E 350 that all it does is idle. codes
I have a ford 2004 E 350 that all it does is idle. codes 2104,2132,2138,2139,. I know that it is a problem with the wiring, I have checked all the fuses. my question is where is the best place to star… read more
HDGENE
HDGENE
Ford Senior Master/Diesel/Trans
6,761 satisfied customers
ford explorer sport trac: I have a 2004 Ford Explorer Sport
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. It sometimes drives ok , then it would loose acceleration. engine would still idle, but when you press the gas , there isn't any response. After pressing it con… read more
APenland
APenland
Ford Senior Master Technician
Associate in Industrial Management
3,186 satisfied customers
f150: Customer washed engine. Idles and revs up buy won't
Customer washed engine. Idles and revs up buy won't accelerate under load. Cleaned throttle body, all spark plug ports are clean and dry no codes… read more
APenland
APenland
Ford Senior Master Technician
Associate in Industrial Management
3,186 satisfied customers
ford super duty 6.4: 2008 Ford 6.4 got dumped off at my shop
2008 Ford 6.4 got dumped off at my shop makes no power sets low fuel pressure code p0087 was just at Ford for low power it apparently had a exhaust leak at passenger side manifold so they tried to rep… read more
Eric
Eric
Auto Technician
589 satisfied customers
code 2131 2008 f350 no throttle response 2008 f350 5.4lt only
code 2131 2008 f350 no throttle response 2008 f350 5.4lt only when four wheel drive is engaged app3 voltage spikes from .86 to 2.05… read more
James
James
Bachelors degree automotive technology with minor in diesel
3,578 satisfied customers
2007 F250 6.0 Powerstroke: No throttle response and idle at start
JACustomer: I have a 2007 Ford F250 SuperDuty Pickup 4*4, 6.0 powerstroke, that loses all throttle response and idles at very low rpms. It does during starting sometimes and you can pump the pedal and… read more
Jettadan1
Jettadan1
Lead mech
Some college
1,421 satisfied customers
2004 Ford: 4X4..smooth..check engine light would come..rpms
2004 Ford Super Crew F150 (5.4L 4X4) with 112k miles and never a serious problem. Started jerking on the drive home last weekend while in overdrive. I drove home without the overdrive so the truck wou… read more
Randall
Randall
Auto Technician / Consultant
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
69 satisfied customers
2006 mustang: 4.6l car..only idle. the throttle body works..ride
i have a 2006 mustang with a 4.6l car was in a wreck rolled over now it will only idle. the throttle body works when key is on and engine not running. as soon as i start the car i get no responce from… read more
John Crouch
John Crouch
lead senior master tech
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
1,383 satisfied customers
2006 Ford: Five Hundred..AWD...reverse and sometimes in drive..foot
My wife has a 2006 Ford Five Hundred Ltd AWD. Has been lunging when putting into reverse and sometimes in drive. Must keep foot on brake. I just replaced throttle body as this is what the dealers have… read more
EMRSR
EMRSR
High School or GED
138 satisfied customers
1999 ford explorer: PO171..a lean fuel mixture in bank 1..bank 2.
1999 ford explorer 5.0L. I scan for codes and get PO171 and PO174 both are codes that have a lean fuel mixture in bank 1 and bank 2. I have already tried and found one vaccuum leak and I cleaned the M… read more
AMEDEE
AMEDEE
AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICIAN
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
9,105 satisfied customers
1995 Escort: Car starts..Spark plugs get wet and than nothing.
Working with a 1995 Escort with a 1.9. Car starts very hard if at all when cold. Spark plugs get wet and than nothing. Injector pulse is always there, but spark appears to be weak. Checked and proved … read more
AMEDEE
AMEDEE
AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICIAN
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
9,105 satisfied customers
1995 Cougar: idling problem..data is good on scanner..Tried new iac
I have a 1995 Cougar 4.6 l engine. I have in idling problem which seems to be getting worse.No codes, data is good on scanner. Tried new IAC motor, but did find that no movement was noticed on pintle.… read more
EMRSR
EMRSR
High School or GED
138 satisfied customers
Just bought 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L Engine idles fine, but misses
Just bought 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L Engine idles fine, but misses (only sometimes) through driving range and really lacks power. Plugs and plug wires are good, new fuel filter. Timing is preset because … read more
Ron
Ron
ASE Certified Technician
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
25,182 satisfied customers
mustang: check engine light..also hesitates during boost..timing
I have a supercharged double screw Mustang 06. I have been getting the check engine light on with the codes 172 rich mix 1and 175 rich mix 2. I also got once the 2196 but has not repeted. It also hesi… read more
AMEDEE
AMEDEE
AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICIAN
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
9,105 satisfied customers
1998 town car: that has 130k miles..dtc code 171 and 174 are on.
I have a 1998 town car that has 130K miles. 4.6L. Dtc code 171 and 174 are on. I've reset and they keep coming back, the O2 sensors have been replaced. I bought this car at 70K miles and I'm sure very… read more
eauto
eauto
self employed
High School or GED
74 satisfied customers
2004 F-150: Lean..no dtc..koeo Coolant..location), Fuel Pressure 50psi
2004 F-150 5.4L Lean condition, no DTC's. KOEO Coolant, IAT(Ambient Temperature at location), Fuel Pressure 50psi, BARO 19inHg(Barometric pressure locally is 30inHg) Replaced MAF,BARO changed to 25inH… read more
Scottdagoalie
Scottdagoalie
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
1,663 satisfied customers
Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.

Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.

Show MoreShow Less

Ask Your Question

x