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I have a 2007 Ford Sport Trac, Ltd. edition. 4.6L V8 engine.

Hello, I have a 2007...
Hello, I have a 2007 Ford Sport Trac, Ltd. edition. 4.6L V8 engine. My issue is I am getting a random PATS issue. Especially on warm days (I live in SE Ga). The engine will start fine if it has been sitting for an extended period of time with no problems. My problem is once you run the engine then stop (running an errand). Then try to start shortly after the stop. The PATS disables the start. So, all I get is a click. I did get a OBDII reader. The PATS code is P1260. I am using the correct key. When the PATS locks out, it can be up to an hour before I can get it to turn over. I wish I could just clear the code and reset it. However...., I really need it fixed. 100 °F sucks when you have to wait for the “time-out” to end. I do have a fair amount of after-market wiring for custom headlights, radio etc. I have reviewed every wire. With the exception of the radio (nothing remotely touches PAT). all are simply device, battery, switch, relay, ground systems. My local Ford dealer won’t touch it with the after-market in place. I realize random can be a real pain. I was an electronics tech in the navy. They can be a grizzly to find sometimes. Here’s the list of possibilities I have found:
Possible causes (1) Incorrectly programmed Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (2) Incorrectly programmed Instrument Cluster (IC) or (3) Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) (4) Previous theft condition Anti-theft system concern. How do definitively prove the problem? I am currently between jobs so I have to squeeze pennies. Help! To add, I have changed out the cylinder lock transceiver.
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi again, more to add. There is no flash code from the light indicator. When the key goes to the on position, the light is solid for two seconds then, nothing.
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6/24/2018
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I absolutely need help. I just don’t want to throw parts at it. Per the code fixes recommended, per my OBD II reader, 1) anti-theft failed. (The issue is intermittent), top fix, replace instrument cluster. Possible fixes, parameter reset procedure, reprogram pat keys (I strongly believe this is not the issue) replace transceiver (did that). Other fixes, reset Instrument cluster, replace instrument cluster connector, replace PCM.Since I have aftermarket wiring, Ford won’t touch it. As I stated, with the exception of my radio and control module for it, everything is battery to switch to relay to battery to ground.How do I narrow this to a single point of failure? I lack further tools.
eric remington
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Satisfied Customers: 1,056
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Helo sorry been so long getting back to you.....I was unable to reach out till now

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May I have VIN number please?

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aftermarket pats or factory pats dealer acts like your van has aids? lol They afraid of it?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Sure. VIN.: 1FMEU33847UA07397. I have no idea..., I called my local dealership today to see about getting a replacement PATS module. After a lengthy wait, I was informed that the the PATS was actually part of the instrument console.
Regarding my aftermarket wiring... it’s Radio, Headlights, and accessory lights. The dealership is claiming my aftermarket wiring is the problem. Today 90°f I was driving for about an hour. I was at my destination for only a few minutes. The PATS disabled the truck. I had to wait about an hour and 1/2 before I could restart the truck. It’s so frustrating. This phenomenon seems to be more prevalent the warmer it gets. So..., I’m pretty sure it isn’t a previous Anti-theft condition. I clear the codes. Another code that pops up is U2510: Invalid or missing data for vehicle Security. Related?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
For the moment I’ll stick to chat.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I will call soon though.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Since the cab of the truck is air conditioned, wouldn’t that lead it to be more likely in the engine compartment? I’m so infuriated at the dealership regarding this. They’re absolutely obstinate about troubleshooting the problem. They want me to remove all my stuff and restore the truck back to factory. Not a chance.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I can honestly state that I believe the instrument cluster is OEM. The person I bought the truck from stated that they had the instrument cluster replaced (the odometer failed) and certified.

Aftermarket wiring? what is that related to? Why do you think the stalling is a pats issue?

eric remington
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Satisfied Customers: 1,056
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
When I inzitially start the engine, I’m good. When the weather is cooler, <70°f - 78°f I have had only one start fail. Now, that’s it warmer, the fail to start is consistent. I consistently get a PATS fail code P1260 Engine disabled by PATS. I rigged a switch w/solenoid to the starter. With the key in run I can force the engine to crank. I just can’t get it to start. The aftermarket wiring is most all for accessory lighting. The exceptions are 1) the radio. It uses a Maestro module to integrate the aftermarket radio to the steering wheel volume/station controls. 2) I installed an aftermarket oil pressure sensor (high quality. This was due to Ford using a “faulty meter and stated I had an oil pressure issue when it did not). Everything else is configured battery to switch/relay to device (lights) to ground. When the start fails. I just get a click under the dash. No security light codes. Just the usual light on (two seconds) when starting the truck.
Phone call session started

pats 1260

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pats

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Ok reading through the info we need to see if we can communicate with pcm when this problem cocurs…..do you have a code reader?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi, the good side of this is, I have never had a stall while the engine is running. I have a log of all the recorded fails. The code reader I have is a Lemur bluetooth monitor. My other issue was a coil on plug going bad. I got sick of the dealership blowing me off when I took the truck in for analysis and them finding “nothing”. I also consistently get code: U2510 “invalid or missing data for vehicle security”. This shows up when there is a PATS failure. Non-related powertrain codes: no definitions available. C20E5, P2000, U3F10, U3F12, U3F00. However, I got these because I thought I had a coil on plug going bad and I stepped hard on the accelerator to force the code. I cleared these and they have not come back.Theft indicator flashing rapidly or on solid when ignition switch is in the ON position. Check anti-theft system for DTCs. The indicator simply is on solid for two seconds when in the run position. Goes out. No flashes.Regarding: c589828c-7515-4645-8afb-6aaeb0e910bc_pats.pdf. I have no idea how to perform these tests.
I can get a hard wired code reader if this will help.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
To add, I am using a key I programmed myself. It required the use of the two original master keys. When the PATS fail occurs, I have tried using one of the master keys to determine if it is a key problem. The issue did not resolve.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
To add, I do not have an aftermarket remote start installed.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
If DTC P1260 is the only DTC present, there may be a power or ground concern with the PCM. REFER to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. Is it possible that this is a ground or power issue?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
The transceiver for PATS is new. When this was swapped out my P1260 issue stopped for a couple of months. Then, it came back with a vengeance. Then..., the temperature was cooler at the time of the swap out.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi,I found this...,A PATS no-start can involve a vehicle no-start due to either the fuel injectors or the starter not operating (or both). If the PATS anti-theft indicator does not prove out and one (or both) of the previous conditions are present, it can be due to a PATS concern. If the anti-theft indicator proves out, and the vehicle does not start, it is probably not a PATS concern. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. If the anti-theft indicator does not illuminate at all, it can be an IPC concern. GO to Symptom Chart in this section. A low battery voltage condition can cause the PATS to allow starter operation, but can keep the fuel injectors from operating.The PATS light does prove out. 3 seconds then nothing.

Lets clear the codes and then run it and go after the ones that come uf first otherwise you can get on the wrong track tracing multiple codes

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi,
I have cleared the codes. My code of concern is U2510. I ran my truck yesterday however did not turn the engine off. So, no PATS code for the moment.

What module is 2510 from

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Invalid or missing data for vehicle security. I haven’t proven it yet but, I read that if an Unapproved PATS key is used this could cause cause issues at varying temperatures. The key I have been using mostly is one of those. So, To experiment, I’m using exclusively the Master keys.https://themustangsource.com/service_man/Electrical/Electronic_Feature_Group/419-01B_Anti-Theft_PATS/DIAGNOSIS_AND_TESTING/Passive_Anti-Theft_System_(PATS)_%97_Pinpoint_Tests.pdf
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
much for the experiment. Master key only. Still got a fail to start.

So no start is it no spark no fuel pressure no injector pulse?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I have no idea. I cleared the codes. I now have a U2510: Invalid or missing data for vehicle security. The truck ran great this morning. Temp. in the low 80’s. Then creeped up. At 85°f, I turned the truck off after driving 20min., it failed to restart. It took an hour before I could re-start. I have read that if the indicator proves out (3 seconds) that the issue may not be with the PATS even though all indicates that it is. I can hear a click under the dash (near the BCM?). Once the PATS proves out. The next thing I get on the dash is a check charging system warning. Even though there is nothing with the starter or battery.

so a no crank situation? mmake sure battery and cables are good and check for cuurrent flow to small solenoid wire at starter solenoid. we cannot assume starter is ok

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I have no idea how to check: I can test for no spark easily enough, but lack the tools to check fuel pressure, or injector pulse. I don’t get any codes for them. With the key in run, I can force the starter to crank. I just can’t force the restart. More tomorrow. Since the is so prevalent, maybe warranting a reflash of the PATS/PCM?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
The Starter is reasonably new. The battery cable from the battery to the starter is new. Less than a year old. I had Ford install it. There was a concern it could be a heat soak issue. I even had the starter solonoid wire replaced to ensure it wasn’t a corrosion issue. However, as I stated before, I put a bypass to the starter with a switch and solenoid. It does crank when I force it.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
When I was listing off the (non-related) codes stated earlier, these were just from my stored reports. They got cleared a long time ago. Just there for mention.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
For P1260 code: PCM disabled the vehicle because of a PATS concern. Retrieve DTCs from applicable PATS control function (PATS/ICM/VIC/HEC/SCIL). what do I need to check for deeper codes? Will I need: Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) and Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) software with appropriate hardware, or equivalent scan tool? I checked for the tool. They cost $1,300 - 1,500. I’m unemployed. Too rich for me. I see where I can get a cheapo on eBay for $150. I don’t trust eBay this time.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
A PATS no-start can involve a vehicle no-start due to either the fuel injectors or the starter not operating (or both). If the PATS anti-theft indicator does not prove out (IT DOES) and one (or both) of the previous conditions are present, it can be due to a PATS concern. If the anti-theft indicator proves out, (IT DOES PROVE OUT) and the vehicle does not start, it is probably not a PATS concern. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. If the anti-theft indicator does not illuminate at all, it can be an IPC concern. GO to Symptom Chart in this section. A low battery voltage condition can cause the PATS to allow starter operation, but can keep the fuel injectors from operating.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
8226;possible causes?
Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 36 (5A) • Wiring, terminals or connectors
• PATS transceiver (unlikely, it’s brand new)
• Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)
• PCM

No crank issue though?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Unless I force it. No.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Just a click sound under the dash.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I think the click I hear is from the smart junction box.

maybe a realy so ck it with a volt meter at the starter solenoid first and see if you arent getting power there when cranking

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok. Will do.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I cleared all codes. U2510 (invalid or missing data for vehicle security) and P1260 (engine disabled by PATS) came back. Have not checked at starter yet. I’ll have to wait until tomorrow.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi, I'm going to have to go on hold with this. I have a sudden illness in my family. And, I need to out of town for a few days. Is it possible to suspend this?

yES, NO HURRIES NO WORRIES iLL BE HERE

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Thank you. I now believe it is a heat issue. Idon't seem to have issues when running in cooler weather. Is it possible that the PCM has a heat problem?

Heat definitely affects electrical components

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi, I’m back. Here’s a symptom that I overlooked. The engine has occasionally misfiring. I figured probably a coil on plug going bad. The last time I had that issue I was able to force the code. This time, when I tried to make the “coil on plug” to fail. It didn’t. I got a bunch of other codes but not a misfire.
I just read that a failing PCM can cause misfires with no rhyme, pattern or, reason. So...., now combining the two issues, I’m beginning to strongly consider the PCM as an issue.I see I can get a PCM fom Flagship one (reconditioned?) (reliable?) for about $200.00. Know anything about the company. Also, for VIN 1FMEU33847UA07397 do you know the part no. for the PCM?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
My issue with my Father-in-law is gravely ill. It’s touch and go. I may have to suspend this on short notice.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I found what the U2510 code means.: http://u2510.enginecodes.net

If its a crank no start issue lets ck for spark fuel pressure injector pulse b4 we start replacing components....These people could ck it...but lets try and figure why it s not starting first....www.siaelec.com

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi, the issue is a no crank, no start. I just get a small click (just under the dash). No PCM flash, or constant on. The PATS light proves out. When I’ve stated I can crank, it is due to a bypass circuit I installed. I have installed a momentary switch with a solenoid to put a hot wire to the starter. So with the switch in run, I can go under the hood, press a switch and force a crank. I cannot force a start though. So, I am reasonably certain the starter is ok. What I am not sure of, is in a normal run situation is to see if voltage is there at the starter when the truck is in a fault state. Today, I’m going to go for a run, and to see if I can get a no crank. I’ll check the voltage at the starter when the key is put into the start position at that time. Many years ago, I had a Datsun pickup that had a similar issue. However, I was able to short the solenoid and crank the truck to start. So, for a while I thought this may also be the problem. The starter is new, the battery cable to the starter is new. The wire to the solonoid is also new. So, I’m pretty sure it’s not a heat soak problem. However, I was using a knock off key. (I’ve now thrown that away. I’ve read that knock off keys can cause issues at varying temperatures. So, I’ve eliminated that possibility. I’m still getting a no crank (after starting/running then shut down and try to restart) on hot days. Today, I’m going to replace the O2 sensors to see if that will eliminate the U2510. I’m also going to open the dash up at the radio bezel to hunt for wiring problems/connections.U Network Code Problem is climate control system, lighting, airbags, etc.
2 MFG - Manufacturer Specific
5 BBV Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
1 BBV Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
0 Park/Neutral Postion (PNP) Switch Circuit Engine Torque Signal Circuit

cOULD STILL BE RANGE POSITION SWITCH OR A REALY IF A NO CRANK SCENARIO....

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DO YOU EVER GET A NO START BUT IT CRANKS

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’m not sure I understand the last comment about the range position switch. When I have the issue, I always get a no crank. I’ve never had a crank but no start (except when I ran out of gas).

ok just want ing to make sure

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tsb

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Just to be sure of the PATS, I went to Ford today and had a new blank made. I haven’ programmed it yet. When I shutoff the engine. I did try to use the un-programmed key, the PATS did flash rapidly (comforting) I was able to restart the engine after. I then shut off the engine again, and tried to re-start after a few seconds, The engine would not re-start. Again, no crank and the PATS proved out. Once I can get the engine to restart, I’m going to look for codes again.

tsb

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test

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Thank you for that (the Tsb). When the starter cable was replaced, it was the harness. Not just the battery power.

get a long jumper wire run in it into vehicle(thru firewall there are openings) and connect test light and other end to starter solenoid

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diagrams

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If good then check yellow wire to relay for ground thru same set up

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pcm sends ground to relay

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clip end of test light will need to be hooked to a pos batt. source since you will now be checking for ground

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I just disconnected/re-seated the connections to the PCM to look for corrosion. None there. Now my temperature reading is way off.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’ll check again in an hour.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I need a little bit more on this “get a long jumper wire run in it into vehicle(thru firewall there are openings) and connect test light and other end to starter solenoid”. 1) hot on the starter solonoid? 2) what is the other test point? I have multi meter.

ck last place current flow...is solenoid. you are checking ofr power so ck for positive batt volts at testlead. pos side hooked to test lead nad neg test lead to a good ground. should read 12 volts when crank. yellow wire is pcm ground to relay. so hook up positive lead to a power source 12 volts. and the negative lead of meter to yellow wire at pcm of relay starter relay...consult schematic

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi, I decided to try something. I opened the hood. And put a room fan directly on the PCM to rapidly cool it down. After a couple of minutes, I could crank and restart. PCM overheat issue? If so, how do I get more ventilation across the PCM.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Other than that, the usual expected codes. U2510, B1601 (expected the B code due to non-programmmed key) P1260 (also due to non-programmed key and [overheat?])
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
How do I reset the ambient air temperature sensor? It worked great until I disconnected/reconnected the PCM module wiring when I checked for pin issues? Now, it reads, way High. The temp is in the 90’s here but the sensor now reads 125°f.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I did get the part no. for the PCM from the dealer. 7L2Z-12A650-RARM
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi “ck last place current flow...is solenoid. you are checking for power so ck for positive batt volts at testlead. pos side hooked to test lead nad neg test lead to a good ground. should read 12 volts when crank. yellow wire is pcm ground to relay. so hook up positive lead to a power source 12 volts. and the negative lead of meter to yellow wire at pcm of relay starter relay...consult schematic”.So, I can put pos on battery and neg on yellow. I should see 12vdc when cranked?

exactly www.siaelec.com

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That si not to say that pcm is reason for no crank but you said you had strange readings

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why I put the www.siaelec.com due to strange readings....make sure connections are good. Perform voltage drop test on battery cables also

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Thanks. ***** have decided to go with your suggestion for the computer repair with SAI. No matter what, I’ll have downtime with my truck. This will also rule out at least one item off the checklist. I spoke them today. They seem to stand by their work. They can also troubleshoot in ways I cannot. Ie... heat, vibrations, cold, etc. in the meantime, I’ll do a thorough wire check to make absolutely certain of all the wiring. Loose connections, grounds. We’ll need to keep this case open. It’ll take about 5 business days to get a turn around on my computer once they’ve received it. When I get it back, we’ll pick it up from there. I’ll let let you know about my father-in-law. It’s not looking good. He’s very frail. The Dr’s are no long administering fluids or antibiotics.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi Eric. I have removed the PCM and have shipped it off for analysis and repair. I’m going out of town on Sunday for my father-in-law’s funeral. Due to it being overseas, I won’t return until the 21st. By then, my computer will have returned and, we’ll see if that’s a fix. The last time I did a PATS system repair, (replaced the key transceiver). It seemed to fix the issue. I had 2 months of full operation. Then, the weather warmed up. The very day I brag about the fix, the no crank issue came back. Back to the drawing board. Which is also what brought me here. I’ll check back as soon as I’m back and we can resume this. Thanks for your understanding and patience.Bill

OK sorry for your loss

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Thank you.
Customer reply replied 26 days ago
Hi Eric, I have returned. So much for having my computer fixed. I did get a voice message July 13th from SIA. However, I was still out of the country and unable to return the call. I’m calling them on Monday the 23rd to get an update. So sorry for the delay.

do the windows go out too

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Hi Eric. I’m not sure I understand the relevance of the last input regarding windows. It’s not something I’ve ever had an issue with. Would you please clarify? Thanks.

The clusters have issues too and usually the radio and windows are inop

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
That’s something I’m glad to state was never a problem. It was only a small relief to open the windows and have the radio on while waiting for the truck to be able to restart.

WHEN CLUSTER FAILS RADIO AND WINDOWS INOP

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Hi, I do not believe it is the cluster. The windows and radio worked fine even when the no crank/PATS disabled the truck.
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Hopefully I’ll know more tomorrow. I’m calling SIA to get the update on my computer.
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Hi, one item checked off. SIA states the computer is not at issue. I’ll have it back in a couple of days. The only thing left is the instrument cluster or wiring associated.
Customer reply replied 21 days ago
SIA heated my computer to extremes but could no replicate the issue at hand. They did however, flash the computer and update it. I’m installing it tomorrow. I’ll keep you apprised with things as it occurs. Thanks so much for your patience. My trip to Scotland is the Saddest I’ve ever traveled there for.

Ok keep me up to date

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I think I would try another shop that can scan the gem module since dealer cant find anything. Perhaps the pcm updates will help or perhaps cluster is bad...Dont you love intermittents

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Customer reply replied 20 days ago
Frustrating. I’ve worked as a technician all my life. (Just not autos). Sometimes (like this) it can be a grizzly to find. When you say GEM module... The Body Control Module?
Customer reply replied 20 days ago
Never mind..., I looked it up.
Customer reply replied 20 days ago
Yep... the BCM.

Every manufacturer has to have their own name...

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Ford may now call them bcm lol

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Ford may now call them bcm lol

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But they used to be called gem oh and if you go to wiring diagram they may call it something else

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Customer reply replied 16 days ago
Well...., s**t. The PCM flash didn’t help a thing. Still have the same issue. Next stop..., the GEM/BCM. Very frustrated and, disappointed. :-(

Idid recently hav3e a custoemr onhere 2010 Mustang been to dealer intermittent no start yadayad antitheft light on no codes yayadadayada…..the fuse box....smart junction box

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Customer reply replied 16 days ago
It’s my next step.
Customer reply replied 16 days ago
On another topic if this permissible. I would like to clear the key fob codes to start them fresh. I read somewhere you can only have 3 codes. I just recently threw away a couple due to damaged cases. Now, when I want to program a fob. It’s either one or the other. But, not both.

Have you tried to clear and rerun codes...I can look up testing for those codes in manual

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Customer reply replied 15 days ago
Never mind about the fobs. I’m taking the truck in on the 7th to have the GEM/BCM replaced. I’ll get the fob issue handled then.
Customer reply replied 2 days ago
Hi Eric. So sorry for the long delay. I have replaced the BCM had it flashed. Good news, no more hey futon issues. Bad news, the no crank problem is still an issue. Back to the drawing board. That makes the PCM re-flashed and evaluated by SIA with no results the BCM/GEM module replaced and flashed. $900.00 poorer and no further forward. Help. Thanks.

OK....CURRENT CODES?

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I KNOW SIA DOES A PCM CK...THEY JUST DID A UPDATE?

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wHAT CODES DID YOU EVER GET FROM THE ORIGINAL BCM THAT WAS REAPLACED?

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IS THE CAR STARTING NOW OR NO?

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Customer reply replied 2 days ago
SIA did udate the PCM. I’m going out now to check for codes.
Customer reply replied 2 days ago
The truck starts. I went to Brunswick today. Was fine getting there and, returning ( I was there a couple of hours). I did a restart check as soon as I arrived. No issue restarted fine. Drove home. The outside temperature increased from 82 to 92 from arrival to time left. Got home. Tried restart check. Fail. No crank.
Customer reply replied 2 days ago
I’ll have to wait on the codes. The truck won’t start. I need to have it running for my OBD reader to work. I’ll let you know shortly.

yOU NEED TO PUT A READER ON IT THAT WILL GET INTO THE TOHER MODULES

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Customer reply replied 2 days ago
Ok... here’s the codes: P1260 still shows up. Possible causes, PATS failed, Check Antitheft for related codes, previous theft detected. Top Fix. Replace Instrument Cluster. Reported fixes: parameter reset procedure, Pat keys (mine are fine), pats tranceiver replacement (done that). I guess I’ll need to take it back to the dealer to check out the Instrument Cluster.
Customer reply replied 2 days ago
Will do. Another $300.00 bye bye. I don’t have that kind of tool.

ARE YOU GETTING POWER TO STARTER SOLENOID

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WHEN CRANKING

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STARTING....CK THE BASICS TRACE FROM THE STARTER SOLENOID BACK IF NO PWER TO SOLENOID SEE IF POWER IS GETTING TO RE;AY

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yOU CANNOT COMMUNICATE WITH PCM?

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IF SO HAVE YOU PERFORMED THE OBD 2 CIRCUIT CHECK?

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Customer reply replied 2 days ago
I’ll try to do that tomorrow. The weather is crap at the moment. I’ll let you know what I find out.
Customer reply replied 1 day ago
Hi Eric, just an update, I was not able to get to my troubleshooting today. I had an early appointment. My truck broke down again, I think the battery is going bad. It suddenly lost the needed cranking amps. I had to call AAA to get a jump. I’m going to tackle it first thing tomorrow.
Customer reply replied 24 hours ago
Yep...., need a new battery. I was shown a couple of tricks. The first didn’t work. 1) disconnect the battery wires then short the wires together for about 30 seconds. Then, reconnect the wires. This supposedly resets faults? 2) This worked, rotate the key rapidly from off to run about 10 times. It worked. I have no idea how or why. Your thoughts?

low voltage will create issues

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