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1998 Lincoln viii has a problem with a momentary engine

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1998 Lincoln mark viii has...
1998 Lincoln mark viii has a problem with a momentary engine stall. It has happened while idling in the driveway,driving down the street, and on the highway. Some days it does not happen at all, and others multiple times in a short distance. When this happens the check engine light will come on and then go back off when the engine catches and starts running again. After that a message comes up to check the traction control system. Scanning the ABS module I get code U1009 SCP invalid or missing data for engine torque. other DTCs found. P1000, P1530, P1519, U1021, and U1073. KOEO codes P1000. KOER codes P1000. These codes point to different issues. Could there be a common cause for these codes and are the items these codes point to cause my stalling issue?
Submitted: 3 months ago.Category: Ford
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3/25/2018
Ford Mechanic: Michael, Ford Senior Master Technician replied 3 months ago
Michael
Michael, Ford Senior Master Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 670
Experience: Ford Senior Master Tech w/22 yrs exp.
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Hello, my name is***** will be assisting you today. Give me a moment to review your question. If your VIN is available please send it to me.

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Ford Mechanic: Michael, Ford Senior Master Technician replied 3 months ago

When you have the stall concern. Do you have to restart the engine, or does it just cut out real quick and continue running?

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Ford Mechanic: Michael, Ford Senior Master Technician replied 3 months ago

Do you have a volt meter and the ability to use it?

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
It cuts out and then continues running. Yes I have a volt meter and know how to use it. I can get you the VIN tomorrow if it would be useful.
Ford Mechanic: Michael, Ford Senior Master Technician replied 3 months ago

If you can get the VIN it may be useful.

At this time I have a few things I'm concerned about. First is the P1000 and the network codes. P1000 should only set when the codes are cleared or the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) loses power to the memory. The network codes mean that the network may be shut down. The PCM is important to network operation. Just from your description I believe something is causing the PCM to go offline momentarily at times. There are a few tests and checks I'd like to try and let me know what happens.

  1. Inspect the fuse box under the hood carefully. If any fuses show signs of discoloration or corrosion replace them, whether they are blown or not. After twenty years fuses can build up resistance and cause low voltages in the electrical system.
  2. You'll need long meter leads. Hook your voltmeter up to read voltages at any of the three wire sensors. Throttle Position, DPFE sensor, or the A/C Pressure sensor will be the easiest to access. At one of them back probe the connectors to read the VREF (Reference Voltage) across the brown wire with the white stripe, and the grey wire with the red stripe. The voltage anytime the key is on should read 5 Volts. Either run leads where you can read the meter in the car, or tape the meter to the windshield where you can read it. Take care not to block your view of the road. When the vehicle stalls watch the voltage. If you your reference voltage changes when the cut off occurs the PCM is offline.
  3. If you are losing VREF, switch your meter over and read the PCM power voltage at the red wire at any fuel injector. With your black meter lead on a good ground. Watch this voltage when you stall. If this is stable then you either have a 3 wire sensor shorting out or a PCM issue. Unplug the three wire sensors one by one while driving to see if the stall goes away. If the stall remains, replace the PCM. If it goes away after disconnecting one of the sensors (The DPFE is the most common one that fails) then replace that sensor.
  4. If you are losing VREF and PCM power, replace the PCM power relay and retest.
  5. If you didn't lose VREF in the first step. Then I think you may have an issue with the crank sensor. Disconnect the sensor and inspect the connector for oil intrusion. If it is dry, replace the crank sensor and retest.

I have a feeling following these tests you will find your problem.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
The VIN for my car is 1LNFM92VOWY634345. I checked every fuse and relay. While all of them looked like they were making a good connection, I brushed every blade before reinstalling them. I even cleaned the PCM diode. I did the VREF test using the throttle position sensor. When the engine stalled, it did not lose VREF at all. I did get a chance to look at the crank sensor and it is a little oily down there. But I ran out of time to go any further. Here is some additional info. The car has what I consider a long crank issue before it starts. Only seems to happen when the vehicle is cold. Also, while trying to diagnose this stalling problem, the call stalled while going down the freeway and did not start again. It took awhile to find that the 30 amp fuse to the PCM had blown. I could not find a reason for this, but was told that it could have been a stuck relay. Both the relay and fuse were replaced. This happened about a month ago.
Ford Mechanic: Michael, Ford Senior Master Technician replied 3 months ago

It's interesting that fuse 30 blew. An interruption in the voltage that passes through that fuse would definitely shut the car down. It powers almost everything connected to the engine computer (PCM), including being one of the power circuits to the PCM.

With you not losing VREF, I'm skeptical of the power circuit being the issue. I'd definitely take a better look at the crank sensor and connector. With you having the fuse blowing, it may be a good idea to redo the voltage test when stalling while monitoring the voltage on the red wire at one of the injectors.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I have now driven for four days and almost 200 miles without the engine stalling and I have not done anything. the only difference has been that our weather has warmed up and it has stopped raining. I am still going to check the connection on the crank sensor today. Could it be possible that the problem is that there might be just a loose connection or moisture getting in somewhere? The crank sensor is the lowest connection that I know.
Ford Mechanic: Michael, Ford Senior Master Technician replied 3 months ago

That is a good possibility. I'd check that out. If it seems to be related to cold temperature a trick I've used to find out if it's a module is putting the engine computer in the freezer overnight and then putting it in first thing in the morning and seeing if the symptom returns when the module is cold. If so, the module is the issue.

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