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Brakes on 1992 F350 2 wheel drive (dually) The master cyl is…

Brakes on 1992 F350*****(dually) The...
Brakes on 1992 F350*****(dually) The master cyl is new, the booster is new, the vacuum pump is new. The front calipers, shoes and rotors are new. Rear brakes are fairly new. No leaks. The brakes are still spongy. all that is left is a bleeding issue or the ABS Hydraulic Unit What is the bleeding process for this truck with the ABS Hydraulic Unit?
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Answered in 46 minutes by:
3/20/2018
Eric
Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 34,027
Experience: Automotive Repair Shop Manager, Technician
Verified

HI,

Below is the bleed procedure

NOTE: Bleed primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems separately, bleeding longest line first on each system. Do not allow reservoir to run dry during bleeding operation. Never reuse fluid that has been drained from hydraulic system.

1. Loosen master cylinder to hydraulic line nuts and wrap shop cloths around tubing below fitting to absorb escaping brake fluid.

2. Depress brake pedal slowly forcing air trapped in master cylinder out at fitting.

3. Hold pedal down and tighten fittings, then release brake pedal.

NOTE: Releasing brake pedal before fittings are tightened will allow air to enter the master cylinder.

4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 until air ceases to escape at fittings and brake pedal is firm.

5. Bleed brakes as follows:

RR, LR, ABS valve, RF, LF

a. Pump pedal several times, then hold pedal down firmly.

b. With pedal firmly depressed, open bleeder screw on one rear brake until pedal fades, then close bleeder valve.

c. Repeat procedure until a continuous flow of brake fluid is released from bleeder valve.

d. Repeat steps 5a through 5c on other rear brake.

6. Bleed the Rear Antilock Brake System (RABS) valve.

7. Bleed the front brakes using same procedure as for rear brakes.

8. Check brake operation and ensure pedal is firm, road test vehicle.

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Eric
Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 34,027
Experience: Automotive Repair Shop Manager, Technician
Verified
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Thanks Eric. In your experience, how often have you seen the ABS or RABS valve go bad? The complete brake response pattern is as follows:1) Start truck
2) Push pedal. It will be a bit hard and stop 1/3 of the way down. Push it again and it will be easy, stop about 1/4 of the way down and then slowly sink almost to the floor.
3) On this truck, the ABS and the RABS are the same aren't they? The cyl is bolted to the frame about where the drivers seat is.Thanks
Tom

HI,

I have replaced quite a few of them over the years, so they do fail fairly often after they are 10-15yrs old.

The ABS and RABS are one in and the same on your vehicle.

Just to eliminate a defective caliper or wheel cylinder, and before replacing the RABS unit, I would do a brake hose clamp test. Take brake hose clamps or vise grips and lightly clamp the front and rear brake hoses about 1/2 up the hose.

Now test the pedal with engine on. If still sinking, then with new master cylinder and having bled it correctly, you are looking at a faulty RABS unit.

If pedal is firm, then starting at the rear, remove one clamp at a time and retest pedal each time you remove a clamp. At whichever wheel you remove clamp and pedal sinks, that is your problem area

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I spent the day yesterday replacing the clutch slave and getting a good soaking of fluid while on my back. I think the local tire and brake shop can have the pleasure of bleeding this one. Thanks Sir. I rated 5 stars. Let me know if for some reason it doesn't show on your end.

It does show here and thanks

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Eric,
I just got the F350 back from a tire and brakes place. They attempted to power bleed the brake system. Still no real braking pressure. At this point the only thing that is not new is that ABS unit. This seems to be the one from autozone. It seems to be a pretty straight forward part to put in. Is the the place you would think the problem is? Thanks, Tom https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/abs-hydraulic-unit?newYmme=true

HI,

Ok, before you replace the abs unit, I want you to check 2 things, just in case

First, check the calipers and tell me if the bleeder screws are at the top or bottom of the caliper

Second, make sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly. The parking brake should only click 3-5 times before it will not set any more. IF little to no resistance when setting the parking brakes, the rears are out of adjustment and the shoe to drum clearance should be adjusted

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
The two brand new front calipers have the bleeder nipples at the top next to where the line attaches. The emergency brake locks up the rear wheels about 1/3 of the way down.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Big O tires used a pressure bleeder on the fluid reservoir. He bled the abs, then the real, then the fronts. We've had a few mechanics attempt to get the brakes solid over a few years but no one has replaced the ABS unit. I understand the early 90's ford trucks were the devil to get the brakes really solid.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I didn't get the feeling their mechanic was the strongest wrench in the draw.

Hi,

Ok, all good there. Only thing left is the ABS unit

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Pretty simple on your back R&R isn't it? Is there anything thing I should do to the new unit before putting it in as far as fluid?

Hi,

It is a straightforward replacement and no bench bleeding before installing it. install and then bleed system as I previously outlined.

One other possible cause - master cylinder pushrod not adjusted correctly. Give me a moment to post that procedure

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hey Eric. So now that I've gotten the front brakes rebuilt and nice and quiet, I'm hearing some rumble from the rear brakes and when I push on the brakes, I can hear a slight click that is steady with the wheel rotation as it slows down. I'm taking your advice and looking at the condition and adjustment of the rear brakes as an issue affecting the spongy pedal. Question: Is this truck the year and model that requires me to pull the whole axle to replace the drums? I'm thinking that click might be a crack in the drum. If it is that type, can you send me details on how to do that and if it's a job you think I could do?

HI,

Ok, the axles dont come out. Once you remove the wheels, you will see a spacer in front of the drum, slide it off. Then unscrew the lug stud extenders and slide off the drum

The clicking may be from a crack in the drum, cracked shoe, loose spring or hardware. When you reinstall everything, spin the wheels. They should make 1 revolution and then stop. Adjust brakes until it does that.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok. Thanks. BTW. The entertainment value of old ford truck DIY videos never ceases to amaze me. Check this at 8:16 and 11:35. Worth it. https://youtu.be/dRhkYQsAKI4

That was good - there are some scary DIY videos out there

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
34;yup...don't do dat" Thanks for the pics
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