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I’m working on a 1997 Ford 7.5l that has no spark. I am

getting 12 volts on the...
I’m working on a 1997 Ford 7.5l that has no spark. I am getting 12 volts on the signal wire to the coil. There is an electrical component mounted on the firewall next to the ignition control module that also has a vacuum line going to it. If I unplug the electrical connector that kills the fire on the signal wire to the coil. What is this component and could that be my problem for the no spark?
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Answered in 12 minutes by:
3/16/2018
Ironmike
Ironmike, Ford Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3,425
Experience: 30 years ASE Master tech L1 . Ford master
Verified

greetings,

If the coil works you might have lost the distributor pick up.

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You can replace the pick up separate from the distributor but many times they replace the whole distributor if the miles are high or things are really corroded. Make sure you mark the rotor and distributor position before removing.

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I am looking for the test procedures. Old and hard to find. The pick up generates a pulse or voltage when the reluctor passes the pick up when cranked. This is what the ignition module needs to see.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I am getting signal to the ignition module, but the wire that sends signal to the coil gets 12v when I turn the key on.

did you check the connector to the module? These connectors and pins are known to fail. I have seen a few of theses and you can replace the connector with wires with an aftermarket repair kit.

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As I am looking at your application I see it has the smaller style ignition module, older ones had a big box style.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’ll check that. The sensor mounted on the firewall I was talking about is the map sensor. Can that cause a no spark issue?

this style should have a plastic cover that can be removed. I have seen the circuits burnt is some. Map sensor would not cause a no spark issue.

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I see aftermarket modules for about 50$

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The connector repair kits go for under 20$

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
We have replaced the ignition module distributor and coil

ok, that helps.

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lets check the ignition switch. maybe we are losing power to the module. I have seen the connectors melt and the ignition switches fail. On top of the steering column

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’m getting 12v to the icm and coil with the ignition switch on.

what about when cranking

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’ll check that in a bit. Just left to grab a bite to eat.

great

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
there is power to coil and icm while cranking.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
There are two wires going to the coil. One should be hot and the other should be pulsating ground while cranking correct?

yes correct

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if you know where the spout connector is we can try to disconnect it and see if the truck runs.

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This may be a PCM issue

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Spout connector is little grey box? If so Truck does not start with it disconnected.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’m getting signal from pip to icm but not to coil.

ok, though it worth a try.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
It did work. I just double checked spark and I’m getting spark now but truck still won’t start. Looks like I have a fuel issue to start troubleshooting now. If I plug spout connector in I loose spark so just need to replace spout connector? Can I get those at a local auto parts store?

spout just tells computer to go to base timing. You have a major wire harness issue or a bad PCM. can you check codes? do you have a diagnostic tool to look at live data?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I have a diagnostic tool but don’t see any place to plug it in.

should be under the hood drivers side

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in the engine compartment right next to the cruise control module. odd ball set up

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this seems to be OBD1

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I don’t see one anywhere. It a f700 chasis

hold on

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
If it’s obdI I won’t have anything to plug into it. All I have is obdII And hook ups for the big trucks.

with older fords you used to be able to jump the 2 connectors and count flashes on the check engine light. lets see if I can locate the red connector and plug that were usually used.

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Maybe it is on the passenger side. I have seen some strange places in early OBD2 and OBD1 applications.

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gotta run out ,be back later

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
No problem. I had something come up and won’t be back to shop until Monday

do you have access to another ECM to swap?

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I do see a few ECM's on e-bay for about 150$. we just need to match the part numbers to be sure.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I might. I have an old motor home with the 7.5 in it. I won’t be back to the shop until Monday though.

I would try to swap first. good luck

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let me check

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I do not think you can use it. not finding the original. You can send it out and get it checked and repaired.

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ECM is under the top dash cover(remove all screws and pull up) on the passenger side.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Are the pictures I sent not ecm.

l​ooks like ECM. since there are different engines and applications it has to match original.

Ironmike
Ironmike, Ford Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3,425
Experience: 30 years ASE Master tech L1 . Ford master
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok thanks

I found some that will repair and some that will sell reman. some cheap and some expensive. I would call and make sure all the info is correct. It seems this ECM is out of stock with a few. I have sen this with other modules on old ford vehicles. The dealer parts guys would say obsolete

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thank you

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