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I have a 2002 F-250 5.4L that won't crank. The battery is…

Hi - I have...

Hi - I have a 2002 F-250 5.4L that won't crank. The battery is good and battery connections are good. Trying to figure out what is wrong

Mechanic's Assistant: Have you checked the fuel supply? And are all the spark plugs working?

It doesn't crank one bit

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your F250 yourself? What have you tried so far?

Trying to diagnose the electrical issue of no crank

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Answered in 5 minutes by:
3/10/2018
Edward
Edward, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3,745
Experience: ASE certified. Auto Transmission rebuilder for Ford Motor Co. from 91 to 2000
Verified

Hello and thanks for your question. My name is ***** ***** I will do all I can to help.

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Is it automatic or manual transmission? thank you.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Thank you, ***** ***** know what you suggest

Alright, is the transmission a automatic transmission or do you have a clutch pedal in that truck. thank you.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
It is an automatic transmission, it won't start in park or neutral, I've moved the shifter through different positions to try and verify it wasn't the behavior of only being able to start in neutral.

Alright, If you turn the key just to the ON position, does the anti theft light go out like it should?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
that's correct, there is no anti-theft light on

Alright, let me pull the wiring diagram. Give me just a few minutes. Thank you.

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Your starter solenoid is on the firewall up above the battery. Can you tell me if you have power to the RED/BLUE wire when the key is in start position? or jump the solenoid from the hot battery lug to the RED/BLUE S terminal on the solenoid and see if it cranks then? Do you know how to jump the solenoid to see if it cranks then and the starter motor is good?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Thanks, I'm not seeing the solenoid located there, I believe it may be on the starter. I did take a screwdriver across the solenoid on the starter and it just sparked but I didn't hear the truck crank.

follow the positive battery cable over to it.

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OK, interesting, so your positive battery cable goes straight to the starter motor correct?

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my bad!!! you said 250. looking at 150. sorry. ok, Look at fuse 45 on the interior fuse panel. Do you have a volt meter or test light? fuse 45 is 10 amp. should be HOT only in START position.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
battery cable goes direct to starter, and will check that fuse

You have the owners manual by chance?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Ok - I'm getting 0 volts on fuse 45 when in start position

Alright, that's a problem. is the fuse good? check both sides?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
the fuse is good and passes continuity both ways

sometimes the linkage in the steering column doesn't give the switch enough "throw" and the linkage rod won't move the switch far enough to hit start position. if you pull the switch off and move the switch by hand and it works, then the linkage in the steering column is the culprit.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
ok, I'll try that

looks like this, I have scotch locked in a push button switch before. mounted it on the panel down under the steering column. instead of rebuilding the column. just another idea. I think if you get fuse 45 powered up via the GREEN wire at the ignition switch it will fix it.

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If your all set please don't forget to rate the question via one of the star icons at the top of the page. If you need any additional help just let us know. Thank you.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I will - just trying to work on this and I'll let you know what I figure out

Alright, sounds good. Thank you.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Okay, I just took apart the ignition switch linkage and trying to manually actuate the switch by pushing the silver rod all the way into the start position and I still don't get 12V at fuse 45 or a crank of the truck

Alright, The power wires that feed the switch are,

YELLOW
BLUE/ORANGE
LIGHTGREEN/VIOLET

Can you make sure those three wires are hot?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
all are hot

I believe you have a bad ignition switch then. If those three are hot, then you should have at least one wire hot in START position. when you move the lever by hand all the way.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
ok, I'll try it! will I be okay with a switch from Autozone or similar or does it need to be the Ford switch?

It's the dark GREEN wire that should be hot in START position,

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Jump light GREEN/VIOLET to dark GREEN. see if it cranks then. with a jumper wire. it should.

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I'd try one from the Zone.

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See if GREEN is hot when you move the switch tho. If it is, then the wire from the switch to fuse 45 is open somewhere.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The green is hot when I move the switch, and the switch has continuity in the start position, so thinking the switch is now okay

Alright, run a wire from GREEN, to fuse 45 and see if it fixes it. I think you might have a bad fuse box, windshields used to leak on these and water get right on the fuse box. if it looks corroded. I'd just get a fuse blade and run a new wire from the ignition switch GREEN to fuse 45. a fuse blade that looks like this.

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If GREEN is hot in START, then I agree with you that the switch is OK

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I've been checking the voltage at fuse 45 incorrectly. I was just checking each side of the fuse, but now when I do it properly and check with one terminal on the fuse and one on a ground, I'm getting 12 volts in the run and start position
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Really sorry about that, this takes us back a few steps

Alright, hold on a minute. what I don't understand is the wiring diagram says hot in START and RUN, which doesn't make sense or the starter would be cranking the whole time the key is on. Give me a few here .

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Ok, thanks, ***** ***** matches what I read with 12 volts in start and run at fuse 45

Do you have a RED/BLUE wire at the ignition switch connector?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
no, I have blue/orange, blue/green, and red/green, and red/black

OK, check fuse 21 in the interior fuse box. see if it's good. and if it's hot in START position

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Fuse 21 has power 100% of the time in any key position

Alright, can you check for power on the signal wire at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to START position. I know it's hard unless you've got somebody turning the key while your checking it at the starter. But after reviewing all of my references, I believe the GREEN wire that is HOT in START position at the ignition switch goes directly to the starter relay on the interior fuse box and it isn't fused. straight shot to the relay.

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Should be a YELLOW/BLUE wire at the starter that gets power to it when in START position.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Okay, I'm definitely not getting power there in start

Alright, I will get back with you asap. I've got to pull another reference for a 02 5.4 wiring diagram that shows me the exact circuit. is it an XLT? thank you.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
It is an XL, thanks

Absolutely, thank you.

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All right it is fuse 31 that should be hot in start it's a blue 15 amp fuse and it goes down to the range sensor on the transmission and it's pin 12 the tan and red wire should be hot in park or neutral coming out of the range sensor
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Is fuse 31 hot in start?
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I’ll let you know in a bit. Took a break for a while
Sounds good.
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Fuse 31 has 4.4 volts with the key out and in start. It has 12 volts at run

the interior fuse panel correct?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
on the interior fuse panel

Does the interior fuse box look corroded or like it's been wet at some point? per a subscription reference fuse 31 is only supposed to be HOT in START position, and when I look at the description it says to starter relay coil.

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Did it just not crank one day when you went out to it, or did it get worse and worse and you had to try it a few times for a while before it would crank?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I don’t see evidence of water damage or know if any in particular. Is there any other way to verify the neutral safety switch is working properly?

There is a TAN/RED wire coming out of the NSS. it's in pin 12 one of the wires on the end of the connector. it is only supposed to be hot in START position with the transmission either in P or N. Can you check and see if that wire is hot in START position with the transmission in P or N and let me know?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Hi - I’m back. I’ve decided to replace the neutral safety switch. Do you know how to get it off? I’ve disconnected the eletrical and undone the bolts but it is really connected to the rusty shaft in the middle. Should I just destroy the old switch pulling it off? Or is there a better way?

Hello, Spray PB blaster on it and let it sit a while, if it's really rusty, sometimes they break coming off, work it back and forth and back and forth with two good size flat head screw drivers prying it on each side and that is usually the best way to get them off.

Edward
Edward, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3,745
Experience: ASE certified. Auto Transmission rebuilder for Ford Motor Co. from 91 to 2000
Verified
Edward and 87 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Okay it broke off, got it cut off and I was unable to get the new one pushed on because the shaft was so tight. The new one in neutral didn’t let the truck start, so maybe thinking it is the starter even though it is pretty new. I’m going to have a mechanic come out and diagnose since I’ve already spent several hours on it.
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