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Currently the 91 ford e150 econoline won't start. The

Customer Question
Currently the 91 ford...

Currently the 91 ford e150 econoline won't start. The battery tested well, the fuel is getting to the engine, but it seems like it's not receiving a spark

Mechanic's Assistant: Has the vehicle turned into a gas hog? And how does it start -- same as usual?

Not anymore than usual, and yes it started fine 5 days ago

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your E150 Econoline yourself? What have you tried so far?

We would, yes, not much just the battery

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Nope that should be it

Submitted: 9 months ago.Category: Ford
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Answered in 7 minutes by:
11/12/2017
Ford Mechanic: Daryl, Shop Owner, Master Mechanic replied 9 months ago
Daryl
Daryl, Shop Owner, Master Mechanic
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 12,551
Experience: 28 years experience, Master Mechanic
Verified

Hi I was just wondering what kind of help you are looking for? Like would you want a list of possible causes of no spark or would you like to test parts to see what is causing the problem?

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Customer reply replied 9 months ago
Both! If that's not too much to ask. Or if I have to choose I'd love to test parts to figure the problem!
Ford Mechanic: Daryl, Shop Owner, Master Mechanic replied 9 months ago

The most common causes are the ignition module, pickup coil and coil, I would say in that order as far as how common they fail. So for testing I would start by checking for spark just to be sure there is not spark for sure. Then I would Use a voltmeter to check the Tan/Yellow wire of the Ignition Control Module for battery voltage with the ignition switch in the run and in the crank position. The voltage is coming from fuse U in the engine compartment fuse box, to the Red/Light Green wire of the ignition coil, through the coil back to the ignition module. If battery voltage is not present Check fuse U to see if there is power on it and if there is use a meter to trace the Red/Light Green wire. If battery voltage is good on the Tan/Yellow wire, use a voltmeter to read voltage on the Grey/Orange wire of the ignition control module connection with the ignition control module plugged in. Voltage should indicate a reading of less than 1.0 volt or within 1.0 volt of battery voltage. Whether the reading is high or low, bump the engine over so that the distributor moves and take several more Key On Engine Off readings of the Gray/Orange wire to verify that as the vanes pass through the stator in the distributor the signal reads the full high and full low values. If the voltage is not switching as it should, verify the Red/light Green wire at the distributor shows full battery voltage and that the Black/White and Orange/Red wires have a good ground at the distributor with everything connected. If the Gray/orange wire reacts properly and the Tan/Yellow wire shows battery voltage, backprobe the Tan/Yellow wire using a test light connected to battery positive side. Monitor the test light while cranking the engine looking for a pulse on the test light. If the test light flashes during cranking, either the coil is defective or it has a connection problem. If there is no test light flash when cranking, verify the connections at the Ignition Control Module are OK and replace the Pickup coil

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