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I need someone to walk me through replacing the exhust

Customer Question
manifold on a 1994 ford...
I need someone to walk me through replacing the exhust manifold on a 1994 ford F 350 with a 351 v8
Submitted: 11 months ago.Category: Ford
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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
Where do I start, can this be done with the engine in and are there special tools needed?
Customer reply replied 11 months ago
Manifold is cracked, very loud and don't want to drive in winter like this.
Answered in 1 hour by:
9/27/2017
Ford Mechanic: 6Bucs, Ford Senior Master replied 11 months ago
6Bucs
6Bucs, Ford Senior Master
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 1,149
Experience: Ford senior master tech, 18 years experience.
Verified

Hello and thanks for your question. My name is James.

Which side do you want to replace and does the vehicle have California emissions?

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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
It seems that both sides are cracked and I suspect that truck was one of those "flood" trucks from the Mississippi River back in the mid 90's, but it's all I have for now. No CA emissions, just a basic work truck with 3 sp auto and 410 gears. It's going to be my work truck if I can manage to get it running right. I used to restore 60's muscle cars in the 90's but then I had a stroke. I trying to find my way back to where I came from, if that's possible, so some things I'll understand right away and with others, I be clueless. Please try to bear with me. I've had some good luck with you folks in the past and want to try again.
Thanks, John
Ford Mechanic: 6Bucs, Ford Senior Master replied 11 months ago

Ok no problem. You don't need any special tools or to remove the engine. Due to the age of the truck, you will likely have rust on the hardware and break bolts off in the head, or the studs in the back of the manifold. If this happens, the studs will have to be drilled out and extracted from the cylinder heads, which is a hassle. I'll send the instructions. You'll need a ratchet with a flex head, a 3, 6, and 18" extension, and a universal socket or swivel sockets if you have them.

Just a moment.

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Ford Mechanic: 6Bucs, Ford Senior Master replied 11 months ago

Removal

  1. Raise vehicle.
  1. Remove exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts.
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. On E-150-250-350 vehicles, remove inside engine cover.
  1. For right hand exhaust manifold , remove engine air cleaner assembly and air cleaner outlet tube.
  1. Remove nuts and upper intake manifold support bracket, transmission dipstick tube bracket, engine oil dipstick tube bracket, and wire bracket.
  1. Loosen tube nut securing EGR tube to exhaust manifold fitting. Disconnect EGR valve connector. Remove two nuts and wire bracket. Remove two studs, EGR external pressure valve and EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube as an assembly, and gasket (5.8L only).
  1. Remove nuts and spark plug heat shield (12A406) .

    NOTE: Exhaust manifold fasteners vary by length and type both by location on the particular vehicle and by model. Keep track of what fasteners go in what holes.

    NOTE: Bolt and stud location on 5.8L Lightning same as 5.0L/5.8L.

  1. Remove studs and bolts, right hand exhaust manifold , and gasket.
  1. For left exhaust manifold, remove secondary air injection manifold tube on vehicles with C6 transmission.
  1. Remove nuts and front lifting eye.
  1. Remove nuts and spark plug heat shield .
  1. Remove studs and bolts, left exhaust manifold , and gasket.
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Ford Mechanic: 6Bucs, Ford Senior Master replied 11 months ago

By "raise vehicle" You can just use jack stands.

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Ford Mechanic: 6Bucs, Ford Senior Master replied 11 months ago

Installation

  1. Clean mating surfaces of the exhaust manifold(s) and cylinder head . Clean the exhaust pipe spherical seat on the manifold(s) and the exhaust pipe(s) sealing area.
  1. Inspect exhaust manifold(s) for cracks and damaged gasket surfaces. Use a straightedge to check for warped exhaust manifold cylinder head port branches. Replace unserviceable manifold(s).
  1. Install new gasket, left exhaust manifold , studs, and bolts. Working from center to ends, tighten to 24-32 Nm (18-24 ft-lb).
  1. Install spark plug heat shield and nuts. Torque heat shield nuts to 16-23 Nm (12-17 ft-lb).
  1. Install front lifting eye and nuts. Tighten to 16-23 Nm (12-17 ft-lb).
  1. Install gasket, right exhaust manifold , studs, and bolts. Working from center to ends, tighten to 24-32 Nm (18-24 ft-lb).
  1. Install spark plug heat shield and tighten nuts to 16-23 Nm (12-17 ft-lb).
  1. Inspect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube and replace if rusted through or damaged. Install EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube loosely to manifold fitting. Install new gasket and valve to upper intake manifold. Tighten EGR valve studs to 18-26 Nm (13-19 ft-lb). Tighten tube-to-exhaust manifold fitting nut to 34-47 Nm (25-35 ft-lb).
  1. Install wire bracket, transmission dipstick tube bracket, and upper intake manifold support bracket. Tighten nuts to 16-24 Nm (12-18 ft-lb).
  1. On models with C6 transmission, install secondary air injection manifold tube . Tighten tube nuts to 20-34 Nm (15-25 ft-lb).
  1. Install engine air cleaner assembly and air intake tube.
  1. Raise vehicle and install new exhaust pipe-to-manifold gasket(s) and exhaust pipe(s). Tighten flange nuts to 34-52 Nm (18-24 ft-lb).
  1. Lower vehicle, operate and check for leaks.
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Ford Mechanic: 6Bucs, Ford Senior Master replied 11 months ago

The studs and bolts holding the manifolds to the heads will have a 5/8" head.

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Ford Mechanic: 6Bucs, Ford Senior Master replied 11 months ago
Hello. Did you still need assistance?
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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
Sorry to be so out of touch but a new and more serious problem has arisen. I use the truck and it's dump body as a farm vehicle and snowplow truck. Last week, while hauling a full load of soil, I started having transmission problems.The last tranny I had installed cost me 2.7k and if I have to go through that with this truck, it's just not worth it. May I open a 2nd job ticket and have you walk me through some basic tests on the transmission to help me decide weather to keep the truck or not??This was always a work truck with no air, no power windows or any other amenities including an over drive transmission or even a FM radio. It has 4:10 axels which have both been opened and it originally had a 5th wheel set up. That, combined with the lack of overdrive, makes for miserable mileage.The truck only had 30k on the odometer when I bought it a year ago but of course that could have been set back. Strangely enough, the shift indicator is also missing. As I said before, given the number of electrical problems I've had, I suspect that this truck may have spent some time under the Mississippi flood waters.I'm not sure that there's anything in an auto trans that can be fixed so if the transmission is doomed, why bother trying to fix the manifolds. Do you see where I'm coming from?So can we put the manifold ticket on hold while we investigate. If that's toast, well then I'll just have to accept that as some of the collatteral damage from my illness these last 2 years. (I had a very bad case of acute Lithium ToxicityWould you be up for the transmission or am I beating a dead horse?If that's hopeless, I'll just have to eat the manifold and transmission charges but it's better than throwing good money after bad. I'm just trying to get my priorities in order here.Thanks, ***** ***** (###) ###-####
Ford Mechanic: 6Bucs, Ford Senior Master replied 11 months ago
Sure, you can open a new question for tha transmission concern. Sorry to hear about your trouble
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