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Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose), Technician
Category: Ford
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Experience:  16 years experience
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I had a tech from JustAnswer the other day, but he didn't

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I had a tech from JustAnswer the other day, but he didn't help much at all...
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac.
We had issues one day that the Rear Driver window wouldn't go up just down.
Took it to our local mechanic and he said that after trying to find issue random window issues happened.
He replaced the Main Driver door switch.
With no major resultive change he told me that it would be hours of tracing.
He stated that there had to be a short of some sort.
Suggested I do some digging.
With the help of Ron we found that 2 wires were broken in between the door and the frame.
I have fixed them and tried the windows. No windows work at all.
I have tested the BL/BK wire for power.
I have tested the ground.
These all seem fine. I have power to the switch.
The door is off now, and I have checked for any additional breaks in the loom.
None.
HELP.
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
We have checked the #27 fuse. We have also checked everything else that we can find.
Baffled...

Welcome, I'm Chris (aka Moose).

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You listed an 02 and 04 sport trac. Can you clarify the year model?

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
11/02... mistyped...
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Just an FYI... I am a very skilled XMechanic...... Just don't work on cars much anymore so I can understand some things better than others.

Looking at the wire diagram now.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
None attached
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Sorry... you are looking
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
The 2 wires that were broken are shown here...

At the removed LR window switch. Are you getting power on the RD/LB wire with the key on?

Are the GY/OG and YE/LB wire ohm tested to ground showing no resistance?

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
The one was yellow/brown and the other was green...
Still don't know what they were...
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Right now I wont have anything because front driver door is OFF.
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Should I reassemble real quick and find out???

We will need to do these wire tests fully assembled.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
ok brb

Thanks

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
almost done zip tying boot back together and connecting the door harness to the car.

okay

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
going to test....
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
red/light blue has a increase but not 12volt... goes from 0.00 to 0.08
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
have to have truck running as i killed battery with door off and all

Was that voltage reading with the truck running?

Does the right rear window work from its on switch?

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
NO windows work from any switch....
that is with truck runningI just wanted to confirm...
So you know...
Front Driver Door gray connector...
LightBlue/Black has 13.8 and I had the black wire from meter on the black wire of the gray connector...
so we have power to the main switch.
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Locks, keypad, mirrors all work.
I know it is on different circuit, but rear bed window works also...

Okay that changes things, originally you said "We had issues one day that the Rear Driver window wouldn't go up just down."

At the master is the RD/LB wire powered?

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
that was before we took to mechanic and he was testing stuff and claimed that the Master switch was smoking so he replaced it... yesterday he came by and brought another switch again but nothing changed...
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
going to check
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
nothing on the red/blue of the gray connector

This test was done with the connector plugged up and the window lock switch not in the locked position?

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
all switches are in place... not in locked...
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
comes up to .13 when testing
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
what is the blue/black wire then??? schematic the other guy sent he had me checking blue/black and black for ground.

The RD/LB wire is what powers all the other switches. So that confirms this replacement master switch is too faulty. You have confirmed power to it and ground to it and it is not sending power out to the other switches. If needed we can see why it will not control the drivers window, those tests are more difficult. I can send a diagram if needed. LB/BK is the power into the master switch.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
this one... that has no power
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Is there a way to jump to test a window... like blue/black to some other wire to see

Connector B pin 4 LB/BK jumped to pin 1 RD/LB while still plugged up, should send power to all other door switches. Still unknown if the master is providing ground to the other switches from a prior question I asked.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
hang on didnt see anything about the ground.
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
lb/bk to rd/lb made it so i could open rear window from rear door... nothing from driver door though

Your master switch is faulty. This is why it can not open the other doors and it is to blame for not powering them. So far a new master is in need.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Will go get one and advise you... then rate you... ok?

Fine by me.

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