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Hi, I am Mike, welcome. I'm reviewing your question.
Try removing the starter relay and if the fuse no longer blows when the key is turned to start, try a new starter relay.
Ok, 5.5 volts on which wire?
Dark blue/orange if a manual transmission or tan/red automatic?
Remove that #20 fuse and heck the voltage again.
check not heck
No, instead disconnect the transmission range sensor harness and check for that 5.5 v again.
There should be nothing on that circuit until the key is turned to start.
Here is that Starting Circuit
Ok check the voltage going to that range sensor on the dark blue/orange or white/pink wire.
While you are at it while that sensor is unhooked make sure that fuse #20 has no voltage also.
If there is nothing at fuse 20 now and also nothing going into that range sensor, the sensor is obviously shorted out and needs to be replaced.
If there is voltage going to that range sensor check again at the clutch switch bypass jumper behind left side of dash.
First of all remove the fuse and see which side of that fuse socket has that 5.5 volts.
the clutch jumper should be where a clutch position sensor would be.
or near it.
as far as the fuse socket goes, the side from the battery would have the 12 volts when the key is on start, the other side goes down to the range sensor so see if that 5.5 v is on the same side that is hot with 12v when key is on start or not.
That tells me nothing. I don't know right from left.
Which side has 12v when key on start?
make sure you didn't pop the other #20 fuse under the hood in the battery junction box.
It is obviously not on that side of that fuse anyhow, since you still had that 5.5v with that fuse out.
So check that fuse under the hood ,, get that working then check for a short a the clutch jumper.
Then you have more than 1 problem. Maybe a faulty ignition switch as well as a short of 5.5 to that start circuit.
Find hat clutch jumper switch and disconnect it and check both wires for voltage there.
Look under the dash where a clutch pedal would normally be.
Well, them white/pinks go in and out, just ignore the dark blue/orange, that must have been if there was a manual trans.
Disconnect them white pink wires and now do both still have 5.5 v or just the one
Depending on which one and I will assume it's only 1 either that wire goes back to the fuse or it goes to the range sensor, so it would have a short circuit. You will just have to trace the wire and find out where the short is. or just cut both ends and run a new wire.
Wherever it goes, but first you will have to somehow separate those 2 white/pink wires so you can test each individually.
It's not for stopping the connection, it is a jumper to connect the 2.
The one comes from that #20 fuse and the other goes to the range sensor.
Here is the entire power distribution showing the ignition switch on page fig2.
No wait, them 2 white/pink wires are for either/or auto or manual.
So they should both be hot when key is on start, but not with key off and surely not 5.5v.
Then the problem is between there and back to that fuse and could be inside that central junction box itself and a rusted/shorted out box.
See if you can disconnect the harness from that central junction block and then run those tests again and also on pin 4 of that harness where that white/pink wire is.
It is behind lower left side of dash.
It is where that fuse #20 is. Not the one under the hood.
Look for clips on both ends.
I don't have any further info on how to unhook it.
Find the problem yet?