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Idle lopes and also idles erratically, 90,000 2.3 L 4

Customer Question
idle lopes and also idles...
idle lopes and also idles erratically
JA: How many miles are on the car? What size is the engine?
Customer: 90,000 2.3 L 4 cylinder
JA: What is the model of your '90 Ford?
Customer: 1988 ford ranger S
JA: Are you fixing your Ranger yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: I have replaced the IAC valve and lubed the linkage and accelerator cable because it was a little sticky. then adjusted the idle a little lower
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: yeah i was driving it today came off the freeway and came to a stop at a red light and as i shifted down the gears and came to a stop the idle was really high and it sounded like the engine was winding, like it does at shift point. I then got the green light and pulled away and as i gave it gas and released the clutch the engine stopped winding and operated normally
Submitted: 3 months ago.Category: Ford
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Answered in 3 hours by:
7/29/2017
Ford Mechanic: Matt, Engineer replied 3 months ago
Matt
Matt, Engineer
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 22,154
Experience: BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
Verified

Hello
This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open up as things expand with temperature so depending on how the leak occurs ( on a hose joint with a clamp expansion will help seal and on a vacuum hose expansion ill make a leak worse) so leaks can be better or worse as the engine heats up.

It’s also worth getting the fuel pressure checked as if this is low due to a blocked filter or faulty regulator or even a poorly pump will all result in insufficient fuel being delivered to the engine

Might also be worth cleaning out the throttle as these get clogged up with carbon and some brake cleaner washed through helps free things off.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.
if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

It’s also worth cleaning the MAF sensor wires, as they can get coated with dirt over time which then offsets the reading
Use some contact cleaner or brake cleaner to spray onto the wires to remove the dirt – on no account touch the wires with anything as they are very fragile

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Matt
Matt, Engineer
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 22,154
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Experience: BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years

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