Have Ford Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello and thanks for your question. My name is ***** ***** I will do all I can to help.
Did the check engine light come on while you were driving by chance? If so, do you know what codes it may have stored?
Alright, for this problem to occur and it not to set a code, I'm going to have to say it's likely fuel pressure related. If it was misfiring it should have set a code, and if it was any sensor or mass air flow sensor it should have set a code. Is this the original fuel pump in the tank to your knowledge? or has it been replaced ?
I follow you, how does it run now? Does it crank up and run fine or still have this cutting out problem?
That could be consistent with lack of fuel. do you have a fuel pressure gauge by chance?
Alright I follow you, From these symptoms, Here is what you will need to do to figure it out, You'll need a noid light to check injector pulse, and a spark tester to check coil output. and a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure. (spec is 30-40 psi)Check the fuel pressure first, should be around 35 psi running, and go up slightly when you hit the gas.If fuel pressure is OK, check each coil wire for spark, if one coil pack is completely dead of spark, you can try to swap them (coil packs from side to side), and see if you get spark on the wires you didn't have spark on previously. if you have spark now, replace the coil pack, If you still don't have spark, it could be the ECM itself, as the ECM grounds the coil packs to give you spark .If you have spark on all cyclinders, then use a noid light to make sure all the injectors are firing.It's going to be one or the other in my opinion.Either the coil pack is bad, the fuel pressure is low and the fuel pump is failing, or the ECM has ceased to fire a coil pack. This is barring any really weird issue like a loss of compression or water in the fuel tank if it happened immediately after getting gas somewhere. These are gonna be the most common things that come to mind and I feel confident it's one of these problems.Let me know if you have any further questions. Thank you.
Alright, And you are sure it hasn't gotten any codes stored correct? I would double check it even if the check engine light isn't on just to be sure. If you have spark on all cylinders, and you have all injectors pulsing, then I'm still leaning towards fuel pressure, otherwise I can't think of anything else it would be other than an internal engine issue.
Alright, sounds good. Thank you.
It should actually go up when you rev it, but 35 psi is correct. How does it idle? does it miss when it's idling?
I would check compression next. If a cylinder is low, it will gain compression after you get the rpm's up usually. If you have spark and all the injectors are firing and fuel pressure is 35 psi. Then I would check compression next.
Check them all and let me know.
Wait, you don't have any compression on number 2?
your counting cyl. 1 as the cylinder closest to the radiator on the passenger side and going back to the firewall on that side is 1234,Then starting on the drivers side is 5 6 7 8 right?
Can you hold the throttle wide open and check it again? Something in the intake maybe???? restricting airflow.
I don't know, either those cylinders aren't getting air for some unknown reason, (I'm reaching there) or something is broken.
If it was on one side I would say it was a timing chain, but not both.
Something is broken, or something is jammed up in the intake, that is the only reason I can think of that you would have dropped 4 cylinders.
Check it at wide open throttle though. just to be sure it's zero compression for sure.
Anything new with it? did compression come up any holding the throttle wide open?
What is the 8th digit in the VIN, is it a W?
I want to check some references.
I believe it's possible the timing chains may have slipped, be it valves, timing, or broken camshafts, or something along those lines. I would pull the valve covers and take a look.