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Ron, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 23821
Experience:  23 years with Ford specializing in drivability and electrical and AC. Ford certs and ASE Certs
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Brother! I have a flex fuel 5.4 triton 06 f 150. Runs good

Customer Question

Hey brother! I have a flex fuel 5.4 triton 06 f 150. Runs good when cold, but when it warms up runs badly when coming to a stop. Hesitating And feels like the engine is shaking wanting to come off the motor mounts. I usually cut it off at that point. Start it back up and it's fine until I have to slow to a stop. I checked the oil and was almost dry, still had oil on the stick. I changed the oil and I seemed to make things worse. I took it to a shop and they said the overhead cam bearings broke. I was wanting to have a second opinion before I bought a rebuild kit. They didn't drop the oil pan or actually look at the cam. I'm a wounded vet and my mental and physical disabilities have played a roll in this, if you can answer my dilemma. You may have to explain it a bit on the slow side.
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Jared D replied 11 months ago.

It sounds more like you have a cam phaser issue than a cam bearing issue if you ask me. I have a fleet of 1200 fords that I keep running every day and we see these trucks in all the time for cam phaser issues.

Can you try something for me? With the engine warmed up, put the truck in drive and hold the brake with your left foot while you flutter the gas a little with your right foot and let off quickly. The truck should lurch a little so don't do it in your garage or anything. If the engine rattles, sputters and sounds like it's going to die when you flutter the gas and then let off then we'll go from there.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Took it like a champ. No problems. I noticed the engine light was on, and I remembered it came on on the way to the shop.
If it is what you think it is, would give me a list of any specialty tools needed? Besides my brother and and a six pack, male bonding Ha!
Expert:  Jared D replied 11 months ago.

So no sputter and rattle when you did that? Hmm... might not be what I thought it was. Can you get the trouble codes scanned?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I took a picture of each code. There was 6 in all. They are attached below. I also tried the brake and gas peddle thing again and this time it made a clanking sound for a sec or two each time.
Expert:  Jared D replied 11 months ago.

Ok, let's start from the top. The p0113 usually sets when there is a problem with the MAF (mass air flow sensor). Here is how you diagnose it to see if it's bad:

1. Check the Grey (GY) wire of the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor for a reading of 4.7-5.0 volts with the MAF sensor connected and disconnected.

2. If there is no voltage on the GY wire whether the sensor is connected or not, check the GY wire for an open circuit running between pin 22 of the C175e connector of the PCM and the MAF sensor. Repair the open circuit or run a new wire as needed.
C175e is the PCM connector closest to the passenger side fender.

3. If the GY wire shows near 5.0 volts whether the sensor is connected or not, check the voltage of the Grey/Red (GY/RD) wire at the MAF sensor with the MAF connected. This circuit should indicate a reading of less than 0.1 volt if it is supplying the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor (of the MAF) a good ground.

4. If voltage of the GY/RD wire is showing a higher than normal reading, service this circuit for an open circuit of the harness. This is the same circuit running to the Throttle Position (TP) sensor and Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Module (ESM) connection.

5. If the GY wire shows close to 5.0 volts and the GY/RD wire shows less than 0.1 volts with the MAF sensor connected, inspect the female and male terminals of the MAF sensor for a pin mating issue and address as needed. If the pins are making good mating contact, it would suggest the IAT sensor internal of the MAF has failed
Expert:  Jared D replied 11 months ago.

The p0340 p0344 p0022 and p0010 are all related to cam timing. A few of the codes could be due to engine sludge (the cam phasers run off of engine oil), but the most likely cause is either failed cam phaser solenoids (most common) or failed cam phasers and/or stretched timing chain. Your best bet will be to replace the cam phaser solenoids and see if the problem gets better. If it doesn't then you will need to replace the timing set- chain, guides, tentioner, and phasers. This is a fairly tough job, but it can be done. A good timing kit for this truck can be found on amazon for about $200.

If you decide to replace the phaser solenoids first make sure you use motorcraft brand only. The aftermarket stuff doesn't work.