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Daniel Wilson
Daniel Wilson,
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 5297
Experience:  Owner at DJ Wilson
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2005 ford f350 6.0. Second time in 2 weeks the injectors

Customer Question

2005 ford f350 6.0. Second time in 2 weeks the injectors have failed. The crush washer is no where to be found and the lower o-ring is destroyed. All the seals and crush washers are new. Diesel leaking into cylinders now and hydro locked. Drove it for 500 miles after the first time. Ran great right up until it didn't. No warning, just died. What is causing this to keep happening??
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

Hi jeff my name is***** will be glad to try to help. Verify your fuel pressure and ICP oil pressure is within specs. Do you know what you have currently for pressures?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
55psi strong on fuel pressure. High pressure oil system is fine, no leaks. The issue is at the lower end on the injectors
Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

Thanks for the update. This model is known for injector failure issues. One very common condition is latching of the spool valve, or referred to by Ford as "Sticktion" which is an abbreviation for Static Friction. This condition is caused by oil accumulation on the ends of the spool valves, between the valve and control solenoid, there is a drain hole for this area but at low operating temperatures, oil will latch onto the valve as it is commanded to move and slow it's movement, causing a missed or late injection event, poor cold start and poor performance at low engine operating temperatures. as the spool valve and it's bore wear, the amount of oil which can accumulate in this area will increase and exacerbate the issue.

A certain amount of wear as injectors age is normal. extended service intervals and coolant contamination of the engine oil will both cause more rapid wear. coolant from failed EGR coolers has been proven to wipe out an entire set of injectors rapidly, not to mention the wear and damage it will cause to other components which require engine oil lubrication.

Ford sought a fix due to the high number of injector warranty replacements. the first attempt was to cycle the injector spool valves for a short period after engine shut down. the purpose was to purge any excess oil from this area, but this was found to be ineffective due to oil accumulation from leakage after a cold start up.

The next attempt was a developement of the inductive heating flash. this software applies a current to the close coil which creates a rapid heating of the coil and surrounding components which allows oil to drain away much faster, eliminating spool valve latching. Inductive heating solves nearly every case of cold start performance issues, and extends the service life of an injector.

Injector harness issues have been quite common. Chafing of the harness and eventual breakage of wires can cause drivability issues such as misfire and can set circuit DTC's in the PCM memory.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Did you read my initial post?
Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

Did you replace any injector cups with the injector swap?

Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

What were the injectors torqued to?

Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

sounds like an injector cup problem. There is a tool you can buy to replace the cups on the engine without pulling the heads.

Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

Click on this link for the kit. There are others on the web and ebay as well.

Injector cup tool and kit

Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

The lower seat is likely either excessively worn or possibly cracked or distorted

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
many questions...
I did not replace any injector cups. It looks like it would be 10x easier to do that job with the heads removed. Could over torquing cause the crush washer to fail?
Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

Yes, Overtorquing the injectors can cause the washer to fail and distort, crack or damage the cup seat

Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

Replacement Instructions:

    • 6.0L injector replacement is not extremely difficult and does not usually require special tools, but is only recommended for those with at least a minimum of mechanical training. It does require strict attention to the details mentioned below - Please read the following to avoid common errors.
    • EVERY time an injector is removed / replaced the copper tip washer and o-rings MUST be replaced. Be sure not to install two copper washers (Ensure the old one did not stay in the head.) CAUTION: The seal between the tip of the injector (where the copper tip washer contacts the head) is very critical. Make sure this area is clean, that only one washer is installed, and that the injector retaining bolt is properly torqued. If a leak occurs in this area, combustion gases will pass up the side of the injector and burn out the lower injector o-ring. This, in turn, will allow fuel into the cylinder which, in a worst-case scenario, can cause hydro-locking and engine damage. This is NOT a warrantable condition.
    • Book time for a single injector replacement on a pickup is 1.6 hours with additional injectors on that side paying 0.2 hours each. Vans are much more difficult and replacing an entire set can consume 8 hours.
    • Owners of 2004.5 and newer trucks should consider replacing the standpipe and dummy plug seals while the valve covers are off - leaks at these locations are a common cause of hard hot starting. (See related items below.)
    • Torque on the injector retaining bolt is very critical! Early build trucks with a T40 retaining bolt require 24ft-lbs. Later trucks with T45 retaining bolt require 26 ft-lbs.
    • 'Quick' Removal /Installation Guide (NOT a substitute for your manual):
      • Remove valve cover
      • Early build trucks (before 2004.25) will have a tubular style oil rail that requires a special tool to disconnect the supply line from the oil rail (such as OTC 6594). In most cases it is not actually necessary to disconnect the rail. You can gently move it around to clear the injector as needed.
      • Later build trucks require removal of the high pressure oil standpipe that delivers oil to the 'wavy' design oil rail. The standpipes require an allen wrench for removal.
      • Remove the 8 bolts that retain the high pressure oil rail and pull straight up to remove.
      • Inspect the oil inlet area of the injectors for metal shavings which indicate high pressure oil pump failure in process. If shavings are found, the high pressure oil pump must be replaced and the system flushed or failure of the new injectors will occur in very short time. Also note that if the tops of any injectors are broken off the cause is insufficient fuel pressure or air in the fuel and that this issue must be corrected to prevent short-term reoccurrence.
      • After disconnecting the electrical connector, use a 19mm 12 point chrome socket to push the remaining portion of the connector body out of the rocker housing.
      • Loosen the torx bolt that holds the injector in place. Be sure to use a medium length torx bit to avoid making contact with the solenoid on the injector and breaking it off. Unscrewing the injector hold down bolt will unseat the injector - do not use air tools, and do not pry on the injector coils which will damage them. Also, be sure the copper tip gasket does not stay in the head.
      • Before installing the injector be sure that the injector cup in the cylinder head is perfectly clean, particularly the tip gasket and o-ring contact areas. Lubricate the o-rings with engine oil before installation.
      • Before tightening the injector hold down bolt, clean any oil out of the bolt hole. Oil remaining in the bolt hole will cause the bolt to tighten before the injector is seated resulting in catastrophic failure. Remember that injector hold down bolt torque is very critical.
      • Lubricate the inlet tubes on the high pressure oil rail with engine oil and seat the rail by hand before tightening bolts. CAUTION: Not seating the oil rail properly when installing the rail back on the injectors is the #1 installation error. If the rail is not installed with finesse, the injector inlet seal will be damaged and a high pressure oil leak will result, ultimately causing a hard hot start condition. Seating the rail properly is not difficult, just be careful to work it into the injectors slowly and keep it square so the seals are not damaged. Do not use force!
      • Changing the engine oil, oil filter, and primary and secondary fuel filters is recommended.
      • Be aware that the engine will be somewhat difficult to start since air has been introduced into the oil and fuel systems. Upon starting, the engine will run rough for some time until all of the air has purged.
    Customer: replied 1 year ago.
    Is there a trick to torquing them? It seems like the angles need to get to the hold down screw renders the torque wrench inoperable. What I mean is, I set itto 24ft/lbs and I feel like I'm about to strip the threats and the wrench hasn't clicked yet
    Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

    No trick, check the torque wrench calibration or try with a dial type to confirm it is correct. The injector has to seat properly.

    Expert:  Daniel Wilson replied 1 year ago.

    Make sure there is not the old washers stuck in the cup getting doubled up and it is very clean on the sealing area