Have Ford Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello, if you replace the valve cover gasket it will come with the harness,if it shorted out it could have caused a failure of a fuse of taken out the Injector Driver Module. You would need to check for codes with a scan tool to see if any injector codes are stored. Repair any wiring that is damaged.
It will only give you limited information depending on the type of scan tool but will be a start. The burnt wire will depend upon what pin number, colored wire to identify which circuit is having an issue
That goes to an injector or glow plug or at the main connection of the valve cover. What side drivers side or passenger side?
Ok but for what, an injector connector, a glow plug, main harness connector? I dont know what you are looking at
OK, the old glow plug wire was burnt, and you changed it and its burnt again, but you replaced that glow plug with a new one? Where was the wiring damaged that you found?
Thats a shielded ground wire probably silver in color. Butt connectors arent a good connection, want to solder together or use a good metal splice with heat shrink, the oil will short it out if exposed. One other thing to inspect is the glow plug relay next to the fuel filter housing. Looks like a big starter solenoid. They can melt over time and cause glow plug circuit issues.
No the glow plug relay only heats the glow plugs, it will still run, just harder to start when cold. Question of if there is an electrical issue or loss of ipc oil pressure. Check for codes with your scan tool, see if anything comes up, clear the codes and recheck to see if there is anything resetting a code. CHeck all connectins in the area you worked on, the injectors and glow plugs can pop apart easy.
WHen you change the injectors it takes a very long crank time to bleed out the air from the fuel system in order for it to run. So not unusual for a really long crank time after the repair on first restart.It is a possible bad plug. You would have to compare resistance on a good known one to the one in question
Hello, do you need more help with this concern?
First thing to test the IDM is to see if there any injector driver codes stored when performing a self test on the PCM. They do go bad.
You can test for power and ground to the IDM in the fender. CThe injectors run off a 115 Volts DC when commanded on so its not the type of circuit you want to backprobe by mistake. You really need to run a diagnostic before probing circuits so you know what area to check.
You can probably rent a code reader from your local parts store for free to run a base test for codes which would help confirm if there are any IDM codes. Since you had wiring issues this is a good possibility. DIesels arent cheap to maintain when they have issues I hear you on the injector costs. Its very hard to just guess at these things, You have to be able to monitor icp oil pressure and IPR percentage when checking for no start issues. Many special tools are required to diagnose them properly. Id hate to guess and say buy and IDM and try it without knowing more abou if there are injector circuit codes from the valve cover to the IDM or an IDM fault itself
Can the scan tool do a cylinder contribution test or injector buzz test? That would be whats next to check, if its running rough it can be a faulty new injector or issue with an oring on one of the new injectors causing a leak.Being able to monitor ICP pressure and IPR percentage is another thing to look at. The ICP sensor or IPR solenoid can be leaking oil into the electrical connectors and causing an issue as well
Ok then that is either an issue with the scan tool or problem with the idm, but you said the truck will start and run, just runs rough at times?
Yes, you can do a voltage drop test to check integrity of the wiring. Just odd it wont do an injector buzz test. Curious to know if the ICP is at least 500 psi building up or not, this would tell if there is a problem with the high pressure oil system, The injectors must have a minimum of 500 psi to open and dump fuel and fire the engine. Will it start and run if you spray some silicone spray into the intake?
No problem, if it starts with spray, then you know the injectors arent firing
Just for a few seconds to get a small charge in the engine to see if it will try to fire.
No problem, its most likely gonna come down to an issue in the area you were working in since it ran before and now it wont.So double check everything you were involved with. Even with the one connector burnt the truck ran prior.
Hi Peter, My name is***** will be glad to help with this. First lets confirm is this the 7.3L you have or 6.0L?
with your scan tool set in live data watch for crank sensor signal and tach response for a possible faulty crank sensor or harness issue. If the ECM gets no RPM signal the injectors wont be commanded to fire. Also verify fuel pressure. Should see around 80 PSI and ICP pressure around 870PSI to start. disconnecting the ICP sensor will put the ECM in default status and try starting with the sensor unplugged forcing the ECM to use default pressure values. Let me know the results.