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Hello and thank you for your question,What was the relearn procedure you performed ?When it stalls, does it start right back up?
What was the re-learn procedure you performed after you replace the TB?
Any time you replace the TB you need to disconnect both battery cables and touch them together to clear the PCM (computer) of its closed throttle values. After doing so then you want to connect them and start it and let it idle for about 20 minutes so it can re-learn the closed throttle values. If this is not how you did it then retry it this way. If the problem returns after doing so then we are going to need to scan the computer system and see if any fault codes set. Try the relearn again and let me know.
Doing so will totally clear all learned values and should resolve the problem if in fact that is the problem and it sure sounds like that to me. Yes, any part store will usually scan it for you at no charge. Lets try the re-learn first . Please take a moment to rate my service so I can get credit for my time, the question remains open for follow up even after doing so, all you need to do is return to this question if need be.Thank you again.
Okay then lets get the system scanned and see if there are any fault code setting and we can work from there.
In most cases if you have a vacuum problem the computer will set and store a fault code and in order to know where to start your testing we need the code. Did you get it the code scan done?
That would be the next step. If there are fault codes that will give us some idea as to what may be causing the problem.
Yes resetting it would have cleared any fault codes. What you are going to need to do now is drive it and see if something comes up. If in fact there is a fault, at some point the light will come on and a code will set.
Sputtering can be caused by a few thing, an engine misfire, a drop in fuel pressure and or even a wiring concern. Makes it next to impossible to trace it down if its not setting any fault codes.
Unfortunately that may be your best choice to avoid replacing any more unneeded parts. They can hook up a full scan tool and monitor the data stream while the problem is occurring and hopefully see what is failing.
You would sure think the dealer would know how to correct this problem. What makes it very hard is the computer not setting any fault codes. Thats the part that dose not make since.
It is possible the MAF could cause this but in most cases it will set a fault code if in fact it is bad. I have my doubts and you also cleaned it as well did you not? It sounds to me like there guessing.
Okay , I had assumed you did this , if not then remove the negative battery cable and take some MAF cleaner and give it a good cleaning. With the amount of miles you have on it its very likely dirty. That just may do the trick and certainly worth trying.
It will not always shut of the car and that is not an accurate test. Did you try cleaning it? In most cases if the MAF is bad, you will get a code.
Okay post back wit the results and we ca work from there if need be. Hopefully they should be able to come up with the correct diagnosis.
The code P1000 simply means the drive cycle is not complete and has no affect on how the engine should run. Something is being overlooked here for sure. Im not sure what it is at this point.
Sputtering in most cases is caused by an engine misfire and if its missing at some point it should set a fault code.
That code only means the drive cycle has not completed. It will not affect engine performance.
At this point I am not sure, there nothing for me to go on. Im afraid at this point you are going to need some hands on testing. If you would like I can open the post back up for you in hopes someone else may have something new to offer.
It will not cost you any more money, you have not paid anything at this point beside what you have placed in your account. I am not paid anything unless you rate my service which you have not done.
Doing so now.
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The previous tech has opted out. It seems your question is no longer what you originally asked. Can you write out what your question now is so Ic an answer that for you.
Thanks, ***** ***** stalling while braking, coasting, or stopped in gear?
Will it stall in drive as well as park?
Will it restart easily?
What is the operating temp idle speed?
Thanks, ***** ***** a link to a TSB for this concern. You have already replaced the throttle body, so now you need to have the PCM reprogrammed by a dealer level diagnostic tool.
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This model does not have a test port. You have to use a scan tool to check the pressure or disconnect the fuel line and use a T section to have a connection for your tester.
The scan tool pressure reading is only as accurate as the fuel pressure sensor on the vehicle. Though the computer uses that pressure reading to determine how it should control the pump so the pressure sensor needs to be accurate. I have a T fitting that I install into the fuel line pre injectors to check the pressure manually. Long term trim at plus 10 means it is adding more fuel because the O2 sensors are reading to much left over oxygen in the exhaust. Low pressure from the pump or vacuum leaks are the main reasons for that but the trim specs are +/-10