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Hello, is teh thing that broke the transponder that sits around the ignition tumbler in the steering column? When the car wont start is the THEFT lamp flashing fast? Have you verified you are getting power to the starter motor and starter solenoid when it wont crank?
Oh if its on the ignitin cylinder its just the key in ignition reminder chimer. Thats not a big deal and can be left off the cylinder if you dont mind the key in chime not working. Need to verify there is no problem with the pats key theft lamp, this can cause a no start concern. Then verify the key tumbler is working properly and turning the ignition switch on the steering column. If you arent getting power to the starter when holding the key to crank, it can be a starter relay issue or problem with the circuit back at the switch or an issue with the park neutral switch if its an automatic or clutch switch if its a standard transmission
Not really, you would need at least a test light if not a voltmeter to test the circuit. The starter itself could be bad, especially if its the original one or a loose connection to the starter itself. Check the connections to the starter motor and make sure the wiring is tight
No not too bad. It has 3 bolts that hold it to the trans, the upper bolt is a little tricky to get out but if you have a universal socket to swivel and some short extensions you can get it. Starters range round couple hundred bucks depending on where you purchase it and will want the old one back as a core. So if you buy it before returning the old one, they will charge you a core until you return the old one
Yes because over time the starter can wear out and heat especially plays a factor in restarting if the starter is defective, it increases resistance in the armature of the starter motor.
It could be the battery with a weak cell too, most auto parts stores will test the battery amd charging system for me, cold weather and a weak battery are a good combo for an intermittent no crank because you pull a good 150 amps or more when startimg, if they can test the starting system too with an amp probe that clips on the battery cable, if the starter is pulling more than 250 amps while cranking, its time for a new one, its pulling too many amps away from you 500cca and up battery
They might have one on the tester cart they will come out to your vehicle with, depends on their setup.If not you can probably rent one from them free, you just give a deposit and they return your money when you return the tool. They will probably test it for you as well. Its a part for them to sell you of course
Very good, if you need more help just respond back to this question. If I was helpful please hit accept and leave a positive rating so I get credit for assisting you
Yes, pay once keep goin if you need more help no problem, we all follow up to make sure things are ok. Just respond back here tomorrow and let me know what they found if anything and of course if it acts up again. You would have to get underneath the car to check the starter wiring, if you have a jump box or charger, if at home it doesnt crank, see if it fires up ok with a jump or boost
Very good, you too!
No thats all I have to offer, loose connection is a bad thing. They should have been able to hook up an amp clamp right at the battery to test the amount of amperage draw.When its bench tested and cold it may pass a bench test. Id probably put a known good starter in it to be sure if its the original one.
No problem, thats how I test them at the battery to measure amp draw. Enjoy the party and get back to me when you can
Ok, need to verify when the car wont start if it is getting power to the starter and the solenoid wire from the igniton switch to confirm if its a bad starter. You can use a universal swivel socet to get the angle and small extension to get the top bolt out
No when you test for power to the starter to make sure the starter circuit itself is ok, wiring from ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter
Thats the hard part, testing it when it acts up and wont crank
There are 3 bolts that hold the starter in place the third one is on the topside of the starter directly above the lower one on the topside. 12 o clock position, 9 o clock position and 6 o clock posiition the 3 bolts are located
you wont see it, you will have to feel it, same size as the other two bolts
Its reight above the solenoid on the starter housing excatly above the lower bolt location on the topside of the starter
Ok, ya its not easy but it can be removed just the right combination of a swivel socket to get onto the bolt and a short extension.
Yes the large cable to the starter has battery voltage all the time.The smaller wire will only have battery voltage when turning the igniton key to the crank position.You can jump across the large and small wires to make the starter crank bypassing the ignition switch feed
Whatever your battery voltage is 12-13 volts
Most likely a poor ground when testing with you meter. You should have battery voltage all the time on the main cable to the starter the larger one. Which wire reads 1.3 that one or the ignition feed when holding the key to the crank position?
If you arent getting battery voltage on the main cable it shouldnt start so I suspecting you may have a bad ground connection with your meter. You will see about a drop to 10 volts with a good battery and starter on the main lead but anything more than that would indicate a bad supply cable
This is the starter circuit
Thats what I figured. good.
Yes you should check both, but you will need someone to try the key to crank while testing the circuit. Ths picture shows the bolt location for the starter.
Yes if you have voltage on both wires and it wont crank and it wont crack when you jump across the battery feed wire and the ignition key feed wire it would be a defective starter. I use a 10 or 13mm swivel socket with a couple small extensions and hand ratchet between the edge of the starter motor and frame to get the 3rd upper starter bolt out. you can see it with a mirror and flashlight
its tricky but it must come out