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Replace the fuel pump relay and try that. It sounds like it is sticking closed.
You said it was always running, like it would not shut off.
You said you checked the fuel pressure, what was it?
If you don't want to replace the relay, let me know. Cause you can do some more testing with a voltmeter or 12 volt test light. It might even be an ignition switch that is at fault but I just thought it would be easier to eliminate the relay for now.
Ok, actually you don't even have to purchase a relay is you have a spare you can swap out.
So you already replaced the fuel pump relay once?
I am reading that this has 2 fuel pumps, a high speed and low speed.
Yeah, I am here.
What do you mean by ccm?
I would have to look that up.
Can you keep it running long enough to get it to an auto-parts store and retrieve the codes from the computer modules?
Wait, hold on. This is a 94? Those codes won't be of much good.
I am trying to read more on those 2 fuel pumps right now. Are you aware it has 2?
Ok, maybe that was it. The reason I asked cause I seen something about primary and secondary fuel pump circuits.
Ok, maybe I should back up here. I have to ask, is this the flex fuel 3.0, the vin U 3.0 or vin y (dual ohc show)?
ok, I will. But I can tell what the engine vin is by the vin under the windshield. So whenever you get that let me know that 17 digit vin.
Ok, it's a vin U.
I found an interesting technical service bulletin,
Although it doesn't explain all of the problem it might be some of it. It explains that "stalling at low vehicle speed, idling and/or a no start condition may occur on some vehicles in hot ambient temperatures and/or high altitudes.
In addition, a no start may result while the engine is still hot and the vehicle has been parked for a short period. A stall may also occur when moving the vehicle from idle. This may be caused by a lack of vapor ports in the fuel pump, resulting in a vapor lock condition or internal high wear of the fuel pump components due to tank contaminants."
It says to, "replace the fuel pump with a new turbine fuel pump."
No, the fuel pump isn't suppose to stop when it gets up to pressure. The fuel pump is supposed to run all the time the engine is running.
if the fuel pump is running but the engine don't start, you need to check the actual fuel pressure psi, cause the pump may be running, but it might be pushing air through the fuel line and not gas.
It's starting to sound more and more like a computer module problem.
I don't understand what you just said, "If i pull the plug on the fan or block the air flow to radiator to let car get a little hotter then the fan wont work and the car will over heat". If you unplug the fan then of course the fan won't come on and the engine will overheat.
Ok, somehow you are going to have to test when this problem occurs, the wire from the computer to the relay so let me get a wiring diagram first.
That vin decodes as a GL, also so here is that wiring diagram.
You will have to go down to figures 5 and 6.
I do see both the fuel pump and cooling fans are hooked to that "constant control relay module".
Ok, first of all, forget about a fuel pump relay cause I don't see one.
I see that constant control relay module gets voltage all the time from the "pcm relay/fuel pump" fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.
The fuel pump gets it's power from the powertrain control module but the pcm relies on something else to tell it to give the fuel pump power and I am assuming it is that constant control relay module.
Did you replace the entire ccm or like you said just the fuel pump relay? I am not familiar of just what is inside that ccm, so bare with me while I read some more.
Actually I see 2 wires to the fuel pump, one from the pcm and one from the ccm. I have to look up which feeds what?
I suppose at this point since both of the problems are most likely electric and they are both probably related, it would be best to retrieve the codes now. I know Ford has key on and key off engine running or not tests. If you need to know exactly how to retrieve these codes just ask. I do see though a code P0482 which does refer to Key on or engine running; and the PCM detected an unexpected high or low voltage condition on the High Fan Control (HFC) relay control circuit (located inside the CCRM) during the CCM test period. Possible causes of this are FC relay control circuit is open, FC relay control circuit is shorted to chassis ground, FC relay power supply (VPWR) circuit is open and FC relay direct battery (B+) circuit is open pr the pcm has failed.
yeah, I was just mostly thinking out loud.
You said it again, " or unplug the fan to let the engine temp get a little higher then the fan will not work' If you unplug the fan, of course it won't work.
Oh, plug it back in. Ok.
It sounds to me as though one of those fan speeds isn't working and probably the high speed. Change the high speed relay, don't swap it, change it, meaning buy a brand new one. Unless of course there is no relay and it's all within that ccrm.
You never did answer that questions, did you replace the entire ccrm?
Ok, let's retrieve the codes next.
Ok, what about the key on engine off (KOEO) codes?
How were you attempting to check the key on engine running codes?
here is the diagram,
And the KOEO & KOER SELF-TEST
Did you try that fix?
I read this had a maf sensor not a map sensor. usually they have one or the other.
Ok, I see near the bottom someone said to disconnect the Cooling Fan Temperature Switch (CFTS) and if the fan stops running it that switch. try that, at least for the fan.
Ok, so what do you want to do for now?
I don't know. I think you should retrieve the key on engine off codes for now and replace the ignition switch.