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Are you sure this is a 2005 Ford Explorer SUV?Ford did not make an electric Hybrid Explorer in 2005.
Because you state you replaced a bank of 6 Batteries.
Sorry, did not know. The charging system on your 2005 Ford Explorer is controlled by the PCM. It needs to see 14.7 volts at start up or the PCM will set the warning light and cause the alternator not to charge. If you still have it all wired into the factory harness, that could be the issue. The PCM acts as the voltage regulator.
I can post a pin point test for you to follow if you have a digital multimeter.
Under the hood on the passenger side firewall. There are three big wiring connectors going to the firewall that are in a row.
It will be the center connector. Below is a pin point of the wiring in the connector.
The settings will either be DC volts or OHMS, depending on what the step in the test directs you to.
The pin point test will tell you what pins in the connector to test. I will also show you pictures of the connectors and list off the pin # ***** the wire color.
Example, (LG/RD)= Light Green/Red striped.
Have you read over the pin point test I posted for you?It will tell you the specs you are testing from, ask you a yes or no question which will lead you to another step.
Each step explains what you are checking for, the wiring colors and the connectors. Also the results either OHMS or VOLTS.
Is the resistance less than 5 ohms between the PCM and the generator, and greater than 10,000 ohms between the PCM and ground?
It is the Light Green/Red striped wire which is the first pin in the alternator three wire connector and pin #24 in the PCM connector on the firewall. With the battery disconnected completely, set the meter to read OHMS and place one meter lead on the alternator connector (unplugged from the alternator) the light green/red striped wire and pin #24 in the center PCM connector (unplugged from the PCM).
Ok. Since you have not read the pin point test, set the meter to DC VOLTS. Reconnect everything back together. Then place the black probe on the negative battery post and the red lead on the 13mm nut on the alternator where the BLACK/ORANGE striped wire connects. You should get 12 volts there with the key off.
Ok. Unplug the alternator three wire connector and check the voltage at the ORANGE/LIGHT BLUE wire the same way. What volts do you get.
Ok. Start the engine and check the voltage at the alternator connector at the LIGHT GREEN/RED striped wire. Let me know the voltage on that wire.
Unplugged and then plugged in. Both with the engine running.
Ok. Plug everything back in. The set the meter to volts and place the red lead on the battery positive post and the black lead on the alternator post with the 13mm nut. Then start the engine and see what the voltage reading is. This is a voltage drop test.
Then place the red lead on the alternator post and the black lead on the negative battery post and start the engine. See what the voltage reading is.
Ok. DO you have the V6 or the V8 engine?
The problem is in the alternator.
I just walked you through the complete pin point test.
Since you have power at the alternator post, the fusible link is good.
We've checked that wire earlier and you are getting voltage on that wire, the LIGHT GREEN/RED striped wire with the engine running and the alternator unplugged.
That wire is good.
Have the alternator tested off the vehicle and see what the amperage and voltage that it puts out.
It may not be able to handle the 6 battery load.
So you were only running on the main engine battery under the hood?
One last test and this is not in the pin point test. Start the engine and check the voltage at the battery and then at the alternator post.
As long as it is over the battery voltage reading when the engine is off tells me it is the alternator.
Please let me know if you need any more help.