How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Kenny Z. Your Own Question
Kenny Z.
Kenny Z., Ford Senior Master Tech
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 5381
Experience:  Auto Trans, Drivability and Electrical Specialist
Type Your Ford Question Here...
Kenny Z. is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

Ford Ranger: I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L Manual Transmission

Customer Question

I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L Manual Transmission w/ OBD-2 diagnostics
Every time I time I push in the clutch and let off the gas as I'm coming to a stop it stalls. It will immediately fire back up and continue running but it will die again the next time I let off the gas.
Here's what I know and what I've done.
It initially was throwing a cylinder #1 misfire code but I replaced the plugs, wires and both coil packs and while the code has cleared and the engine no longer sounds like it's missing the stalling problem remains. And now there are no more codes.
The car will start without a problem and remain running at idle. However if I rev the engine and let off the gas it will sputter even at a stand still.
It has good throttle response and there does not seem to be any issues as long as the gas is being pressed, only as I let off.
In addition to plugs, wires and both ignition coil packs I've replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and tested the MAF sensor with a multimeter (and it appears to pass the criteria for operation as included in the instructions I found online).
Thanks in advance for taking the time to read my question.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
Hello my name is ***** ***** and thanks for the question.Will the engine idle with either the IAC or MAF sensor disconnected? Try one at a time.Do you have a scanner that will monitor engine data?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
The engine will idle with either disconnected. I do not have a scanner that monitors engine data, just the scanner that the auto parts store lends out.
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
OK thanks. The next step will be to get a closed throttle voltage reading from the throttle position sensor. You will need a voltmeter. With the key on and the engine off measure the voltage between the brown/white and the gray/white wire.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I had to pick up my girlfriend from work and I'm running out of daylight. I'll post the results tomorrow morning.
Sorry and thanks
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
Sounds good, I will check in tommorow
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Rain delay. Measures 4.18 volts
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
My bad gave you the wrong wire colors. Measure between gray/white and gray red, key on engine off
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
0.8 volts
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
And assuming we're testing the TPS signal, wide open it peaks at 4.6 with no loss in linearity from open to closed.
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
0.8 is a little low but should not cause a stall. Disconnect both battery terminals and touch them together. Start engine and see if it still stalls.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Still stalls when I try to drive it. Even at a standstill when I let off the gas it still sounds like the idle dips really low
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I tried to attach a video but there's a 5mb file size limit
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
Is the low idle the only issue? Is the idle dipping low or does the engine actually stall? Does it accelerate normally from a stop and run normally as long as throttle is off closed throttle position or is the engine running poorly enough to cause it to want to stall and revving the engine off idle is masking the rough condition?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
When you first start it up it idles fine. As soon as you rev the engine and let off the gas the idle dips really low and it starts running rough. It has yet to stall when it's not moving. However when I try to drive it, It's got good throttle response and power when accelerating from a standstill but as soon as I let off the gas and push in the clutch, I:e coming up to a stoplight, it dies. It'll start back up immediately, but again dies every time I go to stop. I can keep it going by keeping a little bit on the gas but I'm worried I'm going to burn through my clutch in pretty short order if I continue to drive it like that.
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
So when you come to a stop and push in the clutch is it running rough at that point wanting to cause the stall or is it smooth and just quits? I am trying to determine if rough running is causing the stall or if its an idle control issue.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I guess it's more difficult to describe when I thought it would be. As soon as I start slowing down the engine sputters and dies. As far as whether it's running rough prior to it does seem to be running any different than it normallu does. I actually just took it in to a dealership about 2 months ago because I thought it was idling a little rough but 300 bucks later they said everything looked good, except maybe it could use a tune up. Which I did.
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
The fact that it sputters before it dies tells me its not an idle control issue. Since it does not do it after initial start up and only after moving and coming to a stop tells me it is something that is actuated during driving and not at idle. The only thing I know of that changes states when driving would be the EGR valve. The EGR valve is never open at idle. it is only open off idle while driving at steady cruise or normal acceleration. A sticking egr or uncommanded vacuum to the egr at idle will cause the engine to lope severely and want to stall or actually stall. Try disconnecting the vacuum line to the EGR valve and see if it still does it. This is about all I have with out having engine control data to review from a scanner that can monitor and record engine control data.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I just did and that may have been what it was. It didn't stall at all when I just took it around the block. I'm going to run to the auto parts store and pick one up real quick and than I'll get back to you with the results
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
Ok. It might not be the valve though, it might be an issue with the vacuum supply from the egr regulator solenoid or other issue where the vacuum is not being released and vented properly which allows the valve to close.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
So the auto parts store had one in stock but it turns out what I disconnected wasn't the EGR valve and I didn't realize it until I pulled and looked at the part. I realize this may be a dumb question but what is the silver valve there that sits on top of the fuel rail that had a vacuum line running into the top of it? That's what I disconnected to fix the stall problem and when I repeated the test by actually disconnecting the real EGR valve the problem was still present.
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 years ago.
Fuel pressure regulator