Have Ford Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi, I am John Mc, a Ford dealer tech. I hope I can help you quickly and accurately. One moment while I work on your problem.
Thank you. I am a former aircraft mechanic and I can follow a tech manual/procedures. I just dont have access to the manuals and whatnot.
Ok, first I am going to tell you how to do it. Then I'll post the ford manual instructions.
First disconnect the battery. Now remove the passenger side axle shaft. The entire shaft from the wheel to the transmission. Now remove the belt and you can remove the alternator from under the truck. This whole job is a lot easier with a lift but still possible on the ground. Give me a sec while I upload the Ford instructions.
I will be using a Jack and Stands. I am sure there are some steps involved in the removal of the axle shaft. Hopefully the ford instructions go into detail.
Not really but I'll post those instructions for you as well.
Click here for alternator instructions
Working on the cv instructions. The ford instructions show you how to remove the outer shaft, I remove the inner and outer as an assembly. To do this just remove the two nuts that hold the center bearing to the bracket under the alternator and the whole thing comes out.
Click here for cv shaft instructions
If this answer has been helpful to you please help me by accepting. This is how I receive credit for helping youtoday!
Also if you need further assistance for this problem after accepting feel free to ask a follow up and I'll be gladto help.
If you need me and it says I am not in chat it is ok. I get a message as soon as you respond so I can come rightback.
Are there any special tools needed for the removal of this shaft?
May need a puller to push out the cv from the wheel hub but you can also do this with a brass hammer and another hammer to hit the brass hammer.
Just a puller to push out the axle from the wheel hub but you can get around this by using a brass hammer on the shaft and hitting it with a medium to large size ball peen.
And installing the halfshaft afterwards?
Just put it together. You don't need an installer to get it in. Just put it in, install the nut and tighten it up.
Are there bearing seals, or axle seals that may need replaced or get damaged?
There is an axle seal in the trans but you shouldn't damage it. They are pretty tough and hard to mess up.
Alright. I will likely lose fluid right?
If you do it will be minimal.
K, on step 7 in 205-4
That is where you say I can use a hammer?
Let me look.
Yes, if for some reason you can't get it or are worried about messing up the threads most parts stores have these pullers on loaner programs.
K, The step "5. Install the new lower ball joint bolt and nut.". Do I really need a new bolt and nut?
No, you can reuse the bolts and nuts. Just put some new loctite on them. Use red.
Ford doesn't think us dumb techs can put loctite on, so they try to sell bolts with it already on them.
In the event I do lose fluid, do you have a diagram for adding it? Or is it just tranny fluid? I was thinking it was the thick gear oil?
No, just regular mercon 5 atf.
K, last few questions
Put it in the dipstick tube for the trans.
You fix airplanes, this job will be cake!
Once the axle is pulled all work and access to the Alternator should be through that tiny little hole right?
Yea, but airplanes have instruction manuals that include when to breath
Yes it will be right there. Not hard to get to at all.
I barely finished high school! :)
Good thing I took a typing class.
I have faith in your instructions and my ability. I just don't go in half cocked. I have to have fully performed the maintenance in my head numerous times.
Really, it's not too bad. In the driveway probably take you an hour or two if you have some decent tools.
So, a torque wrench, slide hammer and puller may be good items to come packing.
No slide hammer. Just the torque wrench and the puller.
Like I said, don't worry about the step where it shows you removing the half shaft from the intermediate shaft. At that point remove the two 13 mm nuts on the hangar bearing and remove the shaft as one piece.
Altogether the shaft will be about 2-3 feet long.
I see steps involving removal of the shaft from the differential gear, but not an intermediate shaft.
Trying to find the exact step to skip
Step 9, right halfshaft. No reason to hit with a drift. From there just remove the nuts that are right behind that shaft (they will be obvious) and the entire shaft will come out.
What gear lube is reccommended?
For the transmission? Mercon 5 atf.
For the gears.
The differential shares with the tranny.
Any further questions? If not and if I have been helpful please don't forget help me by accepting my answer.
I am going to Accept and Pay after if that is alright? Will I still be able to come back and get ahold of you for further assistance?
Yes, I am on 7 days a week. Accept now or later, I will still be glad to follow up. There is a reason I am the number 3 Ford tech on this site! :)
I can tell. Alright. I will be in touch and fully intend to accept and compensate. Thank you.
You're welcome. When are you going to do the job?
Tomorrow, afternoonish. Central time around 2 or 3PM
Ok. I'll be at work but I check the site every hour or so. I'll be looking out for you if you need any help.
Alright. Sounds good.
Ok goodnight. Don't reply to this because it will give me a notification you have replied. If you need help tomorrow reply and I will see it.Thanks,John Mc
When you get online, is the waterpump a good idea to change while I have the axle pulled aswell? Car has about 185,000 miles on it.
I believe the water pump is a 34 or 32 mm. Not sure.
Not the water pump. The axle nut.
Thanks John, the repair went well. The hardest part, BY FAR, was removing the upper mounting stud for the alternator. Total repair time, 6 hours.
It is very possible. If it worked for a while then all your wiring is correct. Nothing there would be intermittent. I have replaced many alternators over the years that were failed after market units. I would definitely take it back. Sorry you have to do all that extra work.
If the battery light works with the key in the on position and you have power to the large lug on the alternator this should be all that is needed.
Well at least the repair should go faster this time. Maybe I can find a NEW (not refurb) Alternator this time. Just glad I didn't buy the last one, just did the labor.
Get a Ford unit. Much better quality.