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1995 ford explorer: the o2 sensors, maf..egr..check engine light

i have a 1995 ford...
i have a 1995 ford explorer with the 4.0l ohv motor and ever since i got the truck the engine idles high and moves from 3000 rpm to 1100rpm i have replaced the o2 sensors, maf, iac, iat, egr and still the truck idles high sometimes she will idle around 1000rpm for about a minute i get a check engine light to the one i got most recently is 46 so right now im at a loss on what is wrong with my truck.
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1/9/2011
Dieseljunky2
Dieseljunky2, Ford Mechanic
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3,947
Experience: ASE Certified, Ford Certified, Cummins Certified, & 20+ years in field experience
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Dieseljunky2 :

Hello, are you sure the code is 46? The engine codes should be 3 digits on this model.

Customer:

it an obd1 and that is what my code reader got

Customer:

and i had code 26 and 28 too

Dieseljunky2 :

I understand its an obd1, Most Fords went to 3 digits in the early 90's because of more complex systems. The year model is 1995 correct

Customer:

yes sir it is a 95

Dieseljunky2 :

I have to go back to 1993 for 2 digit codes. Can you give me the vin number?

Customer:

and when i get gas or when i turn the eng off for a short time she doesnt want to start right away and it takes me about 3 to 5 starts till she runs and the idle is around 3000rpm for a bit then goes down to 2000 then 1500 then back to 2500 rpm

Dieseljunky2 :

Did you buy the truck this way or did you own it for awhile and it just started doing this?

Customer:

bought it that way

Customer:

shes a good truck just have to get her running right again

Dieseljunky2 :

That explains the problem. This truck has the wrong computer in it. Someone replaced it probably with a junkyard unit and that is why you are getting the 2 digit codes instead of 3 digit codes. If you get the number off the computer for me, I can verify this. Thanks

Customer:

it starts with an f right

Dieseljunky2 :

yes, the middle numbers are 12A650

Customer:

yes it is

Dieseljunky2 :

What is the whole number on your computer tag?

Customer:

f57f-12a650-cc

Dieseljunky2 :

Is this truck manual trans?

Customer:

yes sir it is

Dieseljunky2 :

That is the right computer, but I cannot say why you are getting 2 digit codes. It went to 3 digits in 94on the explorer. Try this, unplug the throttle position sensor and see if the idle goes down.

Customer:

i looking at the 3 digit codes and i think i was reading it wrong when the reader starts i will get 2 beeps then a pause then 8 then another pause i get 4 beeps then 6 beeps so i thought it would mean 28, 26, 46 as the code

Customer:

would the vin help you too

Dieseljunky2 :

No, the vin does not matter at this point, we have verified the correct computer is in there. Can you run the codes again with your scanner with the engine off?

Customer:

that is how i got the codes and i havent gotten a check eng light and i ran the reader again and i got 2 beeps then 8 then along pause i get 4 beeps then 6 beeps and i get 2 beeps then i get 6 beeps

Customer:

so i think i am getting 26 28 and 46 as the codes

Dieseljunky2 :

Does the engine light come on with the key on and the engine off?

Customer:

yes it does

Customer:

and i think it goes off after awhile i never really payed attention

Dieseljunky2 :

With those odd codes and no engine light coming on, I think your computer may be bad. It is possible for it to fail and go into a fail safe mode that allows the engine to run, but not operate correctly.

Customer:

can the computers processor not keep up with the eng and just send the fault codes and the light some times will come on then go right off and one day i was driving the light came on and the idle was normal then the light went off and the idle shot right up

Dieseljunky2 :

Sounds like the computer is failing. When the light came on, it started working and turned the light on and was able to adjust everything to make the idle right, when the light went off the computer had stopped wotking correctly and everything went haywire again. A cused computer for this truck is fairly cheap and would give that a try. If you want to locate one online, use the link below. It can find you the cheapest preice or the closest to you. Thanks WWW.Car-part.com

Customer:

sweet and that was the next part i was going to change and i have to have the same eng code right and what if this doesnt fix the idle problem

Dieseljunky2 :

After you accept this question, it will stay open for about 2 weeks in case you have any follow questions. So you can still contact me after the repair. Thanks

Dieseljunky2
Dieseljunky2, Ford Mechanic
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3,947
Experience: ASE Certified, Ford Certified, Cummins Certified, & 20+ years in field experience
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
hey diesel if the engine still idles funny after the new computer what else could it be and the other day i was parked and the eng was off for about 5 mins i cranked the motor once no start then i started it the 2nd time and high idle and i smelled a little bit of a gas smelland after the high idle the rpms have been staying around 1100rpm and i havent gotten the new computer yet

Have you checked to see if this computer has any codes? Thanks

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
the cel has not come on at all i noticed it once and then for 1 sec it went off and never came back on

Take a pair of pliers and squeeze the brake booster vacuum hose, see if the idle speed changes. then squeeze the pcv hose and see if it makes any difference. Thanks

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok i did squeez tghe pcv and brake booster and there was no change in the idle i checked the computer and there is no signs of burn or an smell from it and i did another leak test and got nothing but when the idle went high i unhooked the iac connection and the eng idled around 500-600 rpms for awhile then the eng would stumble and then die but i would test it while it would be running and when i plugged the iac connection back in the idle went right back up i recently changed that and now some times the idle now will be around 1100 rpms for awhile but i still dont get that motor
Has the throttle position sensor been replaced or the idle stop screw adjusted any?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
the tps has been replaced and i havent messed with the screw at all since i got the truck
Check the gray and white sire for 1 volt with the key on and the engine off. On the throttle position sensor wiring harness.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok i checked that wire i got 15.52 on the wiring harness
That wire should only have 1 volt, unplug the wiring harness and see what the voltage is on that wire.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok i checked it and it looked like i had 0.5 volts to that wire
If the voltage jumps up to battery voltage with the connector plugged in, and is at .5 volts with it unplugged, the tps is shorted out. You will need to replace the tps.Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
it has been replaced and if i turn the knob that is in it when the engine is running will it change anything if i turn it all the way to full
The voltage on that wire should go from 1 volt in the idle position to 4.5 volts at full throttle.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok i will have to check that and what i mean if the eng is running and i leave the tps hooked up but it not on the tb will be turning the knob inside the tps change the idle at all
The tps assists the computer with fuel to air ratio by knowing how much the throttle is open. It will under certain condition cause the idle control to fully open. The repair manual does not state what the conditions are though.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
the truck has been running rich and the idle is still going up but to about 2K then in about 30 sec the idle will be at 1k rpm i cleaned the throttle body and nothing and my dad thinks im not getting alot of air into the intake

Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator and see if any fuel is coming out where the vacuum line hooks on. If there is no fuel leaking, then hook it back up and unplug the idle air control valve and see what rpm the engine runs at or if it dies. Thanks

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i have done that and it will idle with the iac disconnected will be 500rmp then will stall then try to catch itself then it will shutoff
Check the fuel pressure regulator hose for fuel, let me know if it has any fuel in it.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
there is fuel in the regulator and the hose
In the small vacuum hose there is not supposed to be fuel. If there is fuel in the small vacuum hose, the regulator is bad, and needs to be replaced. There is supposed to be fuel n the larger hose that screws on the regulator. Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
the small hose is clear of fuel and the big one has fuel i unhooked the vaccum hose to see if there was any change in idle when i did i noticed the eng rpms went down by 200 rpm then went back to the same and when i am driving the eng will be at 2k rpm then go down to 1k rpm if i tap the gas alittle at the stop the eng will go right up to 2k rpm and it will do the same if i release the cluch pedle slowly and then put it in neutral

Have you replaced the upper intake gasket and the gasket between the injector fuel rail and the lower intake? If you took the vacuum line off the regulator and it idled lower, that indicates a vacuum leak.

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok and i notice when the ac compressor goes on the idle goes up

Does the a/c work?

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
the ac work perfect
You did not answer about this, Have you replaced the upper intake gasket and the gasket between the injector fuel rail and the lower intake?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
no i have not and i have done a leak test on them to see and there was no change in idle

I want you to unplug the idle control valve and see if it will idle on its own. If it does, leave it idling and see if it stays the same speed or if the idle speed fluctuates as it does now.

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
the first time i did that it idled then fluctuated then died then i did it a second time and it idled for about 5 mins then stalled
Have you tried running it with the mass air flow meter disconnected?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i will try that tomorrow

ok

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok i tried it and the idle didnt change but i had the heater on the the ac compressor was making it idle funny when it engaged the idle went down then when it disengaged the idle went up

The should go down when it disengages and up when it is engaged. Try backing the throttle stop screw off 1/2 turn. Repeat this backing off 1/2 turn at a time until it stops making an idle speed change, Let me know if at any point the idle is correct? If it is, then stop turning it.

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i tried turning it and the idle stayed the same but as i did or didnt turn it the idle stayed around 1100 rpm but would fluxuate and today it didnt want to start 2 times today and it seems that it is getting more fuel than air or more air than fuel

Have you ever checked the fuel pressure?

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i have and it is at 30 psi

That is the minimum pressure. Was that with the engine running or just turning on the key? Also, did you have the gauge hooked up while the problem was ocurring?

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
that is the pressuse while the engine is running and with the problem and the guage never changed while the engine was fluxuating

The only thing I can think of would be the MAP sensor.

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i believe i changed the map sensor and i disconnected the maf again and the idle wentt down by 200 rpm and then when back to where it was when it was plugged in and i dont get what is going on witht the truck it like theres a leak or a bad sensor that i cant find and the cel light has never came on once

Check for codes again to see if there is anything there.

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok i will do that in the morning and what could cuase the eng to not start and as i try to start it all the eng is getting fuel and it seems like it not getting any air and if i floor it then the eng will start but the rpms will shoot up to 2500 rpms then it will rush down to 1500 rpms
Check for codes, and if there are none, then take the ignition module and have it tested at the auto parts store. Here is a [icture of it. graphic
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok and i think it located in the left fender near the battery and any autoparts store can check it
Any of the major chains will have the module tester. Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
sweet and i have 2 other questions when it would start normal sometimes the eng would run rough like a miss fire but as the eng picked up on rpms the problem went away and what is the small canister next to the coil pack it has a black wire that goes into it
That miss could be the module. That canister is a noise suppressor for the radio.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok thank you and i will pull it tomorrow and get it checked i hope this is it that fixes the eng because i hate when i at lights from stoipping and the idle is at 2k then goes down so lets hope this is it
ok
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok i got the module tested and it passed so the icm is clean
This sensor is near the thermostat housing in the intake manifolde. Unplug it and then drive the truck to see if it makes any difference. Thanks graphic
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok i unplugged it and then started the truck the idle was hi for about 5 seconds then went slowly down to 800 rpms and as i tapped the gas the idle went up but then slowly went back to the 800 rpms and when i plugged it back in the idle started to fluxuate
Replace that sensor, it is the coolant temp sensor for the computer. It does not give any codes if it goes bad. Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i took the truck for a drive the idle will be at around 1200 rpm then go down to normal rpm slowly and it is still unplugged
The computer goes into a default mode when it is unplugged. Does this happen consistently, if it does, replace the sensor.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
yeah it idles normal when its unplugged and when it plugged back in the eng idles crazy like it did before and i will get the sensor soon and since it unplugged my check eng light is on too so i know what it is

ok

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
well i finally got it changed and that sensor was beoke as i was loosening it the top half broke and the lower in the block still so i taped it out changed my thermostat though which it needed it and as of right now the truck is running right and thanks for the help
I am not sure at this point which one of us is happier to hear that news. Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
haha yeah and thank you for all of the help

My thinking, is if they were all simple, I wouldn't have a job. Have to go with bad and the good, or rather the pull your hair out and scream or the easy fixes. Thanks and hope all stays working well for you. Thanks

 

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
hey diesel where can i find the oe number for the upper control arm the minute i fix the eng problem my ball joints go bad
Best place to get them is a website called WWW.Rockauto.com THey have the control arm assemblies for the upper and ball joints for the lowers. I highly recommend to go with the replacement 1 piece right side instead of the factory 2 piece design. It is the same price and you get free control arm bushings. Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok and since i have the 2 piece right side do i still have to go with the 2 piece and i have seen a one piece
As I stated in the reply earlier, the one piece is the best way to go. Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok sweet thanks so no more haveing the stupid 2 piece design and that is a good web site cheapest prices i have seen
Yes, I use them all the time. Good luck.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
thanks and i noticed that there are two types of lower ball joints one is normal and the other is oversized i put a dial caliper to my old ball joint and it reading the size of the oversized ball joint so when i am buying the lower i have to make sure it the oversized one right
If that is what yours are measuring, then yes.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
ok and all i did was i measured the outside diameter of the ball joint
That's what you are supposed to measure. Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
hey diesel i have a question/problem and it not for the explorer it for my dads navigator
You will have to open a new question for a different vehicle. Thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
het diesel i need to upgrade the alternator and i see alot of different numbers for it will they be the same if it for a 95 explorer

No, the connector where the small wires hook on is different. You have to stay with the same as what is on there already.

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
are they a 3g system
Customer reply replied 6 years ago
hey diesel i changed my fuel pump and coil pack to a accel and i also changed the wires and plugs when i drive the engine will stutter when i give alot of gas but if i ease into it she will be fine but go to fast i lose power and the enging will stutter until it catches to the point where i get power it is weird what could it be and when the truck is running the pump sounds like the pump is pumping air
Have you installed a fuel pressure gauge while driving to see if the fuel pressure drops?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i tested the port right next to the regulator on the fuel rail and I thorttled it hard and the pressure went up but it was steady but when i am in neutral and i hit the gas soft i can feel it then i do it hard then you can really feel it and when i changed my fuel filter the front of the filter had pressure and seemed like it had air in it too
did you change the whole pump assembly or just the pump?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i just changed the pump and i just dropped the tank and ran the pump there are no problems so i think it could be the coil pack went bad since it an accel pack
It could be the coil but you said the fuel lines had air in them when you replaced the filter. Did this just start when you replaced these 2 parts?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
it was the coil pack and the line had pressure in it and the problem is gone the truck is running perfect thanks diesel
glad to here that. Thanks
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