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Dan, Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 24432
Experience:  Independent Shop Experience, 2 Year Automotive Diploma, & Access to Information Database
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98 ford escort zx2: 2.0L dohc stopped..fuel pump..injectors..volts

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my 98 ford escort zx2 2.0L dohc stopped while driving, replaced fuel filter, fuel pump is working, replaced plugs, replaced coil, injectors have good resistance, injector connectors read 11.5 volts. What next?

Welcome to JustAnswer, my name is XXXXX XXXXX I'm here to help get your problem resolved. Ask follow up questions, thanks.


Did you check for spark?

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Yes. Spark at the plungs and where plug wires connect to the coil.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Measured resistance at coil and this indicated to replace the coil, so I did with new one.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
When I put in new plugs, at the moment of the first cranking, the engine sounded like it was ready to start but then nothing. It acts like no fuel or no spark. With the plugs out, I turned the engine over and only one cylinder had fuel vapor come out.
Use a led testlight to check for injector pulse. One side should have battery voltage and the computer pulses gorund off/on on the other wire. Let me know if it has pulse .Thanks.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
definately battery voltage on lead with red wire, should the other pulse off and on with the ignition turned to the on position? or only when cranked?
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
trying with digital multi meter
The other wires on injectors should pulsate ground off/on when cranking the engine. You cant really tell good with a multimeter but you can try. Let me know how it goes.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Okay, if i put the DVM on diode setting, with the key on I get a steady reading. Once the engine is cranked, the reading fluctuates between near zero and the reading it gets with just the ignition on. This tells me something is definitely turning off and on, the meter may not be able to react fast enough to a true zero reading.
Next step is to do a fuel pessure test, just because the pump comes on doesnt mean pressure is good....If pressure is low replace pump. If presure is good check timing marks. Let me know if you have questions, thanks.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
When I press the pressure releif valve on the fuel rail, the pressure is substantial. Is the best place to test at the pump as the maintenance manual calls for or at the fuel rail:

Valve on rail is best place to test if filter isnt clogged.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Brand new filter, today, so I checked the rail with a standard pressure gage, not the model the book calls for. The pressure on the rail reads about 27psi.
Fuel pressure is too low.......Spray some starting fluid into intake and if it fires over replace pump.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
going to get starter fluid.
Ok, let me know how it goes. Thanks.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Gunk Thrust starter fluid and not even a little.

I would try again with starter fluid and if it doesnt even fire do a compression test. If compression is low check timing marks.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Since this model, 2.0 with electronic engine control module, does this mean timing belt slip?
Thats what I'm thinking, but fuel pressure is lower then specification also.......So start by seeing if it fires over with startiong fluid or compressiont test......depending on what you find check timing marks.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Will do tomorrow. Have to get compression tester from. auto parts store.Will let you know.
Sounds good, Let me know. Thanks.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

So only the number two cylinder had any compression, and it only had 40psi


I think your timing belt jumped........Remove timing belt cover and check to see if marks line up. Then replace belt and tensioner.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Bought the items at the same time I finally found a compression tester. I will keep you updated.
Sounds good.....if head is damaged you can buy a used one from
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
The timing belt was broken and wrapped back around the DOHCs. as a result, the camshafts need to be realigned. I have the camshaft alignment tool, but how do I know if the exhaust or intake camshaft is 180 degrees out from the other? should one be open while the other is closed? should the lobes be facing the opposite direction? same direction?
If you have the camshaft tool you can only set it up one way......THe tool sits on top of the camshafts where the gears connect and both of the flat parts should be straight up.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
It sits in the slots on the ends of each camshaft, however the slot goes through each camshaft all the way so as to allow one to be 180 degrees out from where it should be. Really the bar is nothing more than a glorified bar that snugly sits in a groove on each camshaft.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
I can email you a picture if you'd like?
cylinder 1 the valves should be closed.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

The intake and exhaust valves should be closed at the same time, correct? this should be the compression stroke. Is my assumption correct?

Correct on both.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
I will experiment again. My first DOHC and timing belt. Eveything else seems easy comparatively. Even the automatic transmission.
dohc usually isnt bad...little more troublesome on v6 and v8 engines but not much of a problem on a 4cyl. Let me know how it goes.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

One of the camshafts was 180 degrees out of alignment. It is fixed and it at least started.


okay, we got it running, but the timing is a little off. We couldn't find the hole for the crankshaft alignment pin, so all data said to get it just before TDC. Well, we did that but I think the timing is just a little off and the computer is trying to correct. Its just far enough out where it cant quite compensate. My big question is: Where in the heck is the screw that come out for the alignment pin? the close up in the Haynes Manual and the images on AllData are just not clear. It almost looks like it should be on the same horizontal line as the crank. any ideas?

I see the same thing as not being too far from here the crank sensor connector connects.
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