Here is some information on the trouble code you had present in your computer in the past. I think this might be related. Also, I have included some other information for you as well.
Diagnostic code p1132
Reset adaptive strategy by disconnecting the battery for about 10 minutes. This resets all the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) learned values, including long term fuel trim.
Monitor the front O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1), long term fuel trim and short term fuel trim readings, and monitor fuel pressure both on the scan data and an actual fuel pressure gauge.
If the fuel pressure readings are normal, the fuel trim readings go to high (double digit) positive numbers, but the O2 sensor reading is staying to the rich side (above 0.6 volts), replace the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
If the actual fuel pressure reading is higher than the scan tool fuel pressure reading, replace the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor.
Potential Causes: Defective Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Sensor
Defective Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Tips: There is usually a difference between the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor reading on the scan data and the actual fuel pressure reading, depending on the amount of engine vacuum, but the scan tool reading is normally HIGHER than the actual reading. This has to do with the vacuum to the FRP sensor. At idle, the scan tool reading is typically about 8 PSI higher than the actual reading. If the vacuum line is disconnected from the FRP sensor, the readings should equalize within 2 PSI.
Connect a voltmeter to the O2 output wire and check the actual voltage. Give it a vacuum leak and add fuel to make sure the O2 reacts correctly. Replace the O2 Sensor as needed.
Potential Causes: Harness
Malfunctioning O2 Sensor
Check the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor voltage on the scanner and at the sensor on the White/Green (WH/GN) wire. The voltage should read about 2.8[email protected] 40 PSI.
If the voltage agrees with the 40 PSI reading on the scanner, but the actual pressure is 80 PSI, check the reference voltage (VREF) on the Yellow/Green (YE/GN) wire and the ground on the Brown/Green (BR/GN) wire.
If the VREF and ground are OK, but the output of the sensor is incorrect, replace the FRP sensor and retest.
Potential Causes: Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Sensor
Tips: It is normal for the actual pressure with a gauge to read about 10 PSI less than what the scanner shows for fuel rail pressure
You might have an air or a vacuum leak. This is very common! Open the hood and listen for a hissing sound when the engine is running.
Unmetered air can enter the engine through a vacuum leak, a dirty airflow sensor that is not reading airflow accurately, an EGR valve is not closing and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, an EGR valve that is allowing too much flow.
If it is hard to pinpoint take some brake cleaner or starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum lines and see if the engine stumbles or if the idle is affected. Be extremely careful when doing this!
Also, your throttle body may be carboned up and need to be cleaned! This can cause all sorts of idle and hesitation problems. This is caused by the throttle plate not seating properly. The First thing i would do is clean out the throttle body with some throttle plate and intake cleaner and a small brush. Another common cause would be the Idle Air Control motor. This is very common on older cars. The IAC motor gets lazy and cant keep up with the fast idle changes. Also when the IAC motor is out, I rec to check the passages for carbon build up. If they are plugged they need to be cleaned out.
Check for the following conditions:
Poor connection at PCM or IAC motor. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage.
Restricted air intake system. Check for a possible collapsed air intake duct, restricted air filter element, or foreign objects blocking the air intake system.
Throttle body. Check for objects blocking the IAC passage or throttle bore, excessive deposits in the IAC passage and on the IAC pintle, and excessive deposits in the throttle bore and on the throttle plate. Check for a sticking throttle plate. Also inspect the IAC passage for deposits or objects which will not allow the IAC pintle to fully extend.
Vacuum leak. Check for a condition that causes a vacuum leak, such as disconnected or damaged hoses, leaks at EGR valve and EGR pipe to intake manifold, leaks at throttle body, faulty or incorrectly installed PCV valve, leaks at intake manifold brake booster hose disconnected, oil filler cap, oil level indicator loose or missing, etc..
In addition, you could have a bad mass air flow sensor. Or the snorkel from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle body could be ripped. Both are very common and can cause you vehicle to loose power along with many other drive ability issues. First look for cracks or rips or anywhere air can enter the engine that is not accounted for by the mass air flow sensor. Next comes the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. This is a very important sensor input to the computer. It uses a hot wire sensing element to measure the amount of air entering the engine. The MAF sensor then outputs an analog voltage signal to the PCM proportional to the intake air mass. The PCM calculates the required fuel injector
pulse width in order to provide the desired air/fuel ratio. If the sensor is bad than this air/fuel ratio will be off causing severe performance issues. In extreme cases, I have seen these two problems cause a no start condition. This input can also be used in determining transmission
Electronic Pressure Control, shift and torque converter clutch scheduling. The check engine light may even pop on if the sensor is bad, the snorkel is ripped or a tube has fallen off. This will result in a lean condition.