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Chuck, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 2100
Experience:  33 Years Experience,Ford Senior Master,ASE Master,L1 Advanced Engine Performance
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My daughters 1996 Ford Explorer Limited recently had the passenger

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My daughter's 1996 Ford Explorer Limited recently had the passenger headlight go out. She put in a new bulb, but it didn't work. So now it's my problem.

The symptoms are: The front passenger low beam is out. The driver low beam does work. High beams work on both headlights. The fog lights are also out.

I have checked the bulbs and fuses, both are fine. There is no voltage on the green/blue wire to the passenger low beam headlight. I found out that there is a LOM module in the vehicle. Took it out and heated any questionable solder joints, but still nothing. I then removed the connector and jumpered pins 12 & 13. I have constant voltage on pin 12, but no power to the headlight. The foglight has always been out. While jumpering the LOM module and operating the fog light switch, I heard the relay activating and the led on the panel lighting. (Hadn't seen this work before). I then checked the foglight and it was on. When I plugged in the headlight connector, then the foglamps went o
If you disconnect the module and then jump pins 12 to 13 does right head light work then?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

I removed the module then jumped pins 12 & 13 on the cable connector and the passenger headlight still does not light. There is still no voltage at the headlight green/blue wire for the headlight.


I put a voltmeter on the jumper between pins 12 & 13. There is voltage there, but it does not make it to the headlight. When I push in the running light switch, the voltage goes to 0, but no fuses go out. As I said above once or twice I was able to get the running light switch to come on. The led would light, the relay would click and the running light would come on. But when I plugged in the headlight bulb believing that I might now have power for it, the pin 12 & 13 jumped combination went to 0 volts again.

I would suspect you have a wiring harness chaffing or shorted.Since both the right headlamp and fog lamps are involved I would suspect the problem to be near connector C148. This is the one connector other than the headlight switch itself both have in common.


Here are the wiring schematics that may help you isolate the problem.


First pic is the fog lamps,I have circled C148




Here are the schematics for the headlights.I have circled 2 connectors here C148 and C292




Here are pics of the location of both connectors I have circled them in the pics








Customer: replied 7 years ago.

A couple of questions to make finding this easier.



When I first started troubleshooting this, I disconnected fuse 8 and put my ohmmeter to the headlight, but got no continuity. I will try fuse 8 to pin 12, which I think will be oK and then pin 13 to the bulb and go from there. I would assume this would be a valid test?


Is connector C148 inside the instrument panel near the passenger end, near the center or inside the engine compartment? It also looks like it should have a handle/hinge mount on it, would that be accurate?


It also appears that connector 148 feeds connector 266 or 268 that feeds the fog light switch itself.


Daylight running lights are shown on the diagram. I have to plead ignorance that I don't even know if this vehicle has them. If it does could this be involved with the problem and how would I know if I have them?


Auxiliary relay box #2 is shown on the drawing. Is that the one between the air filter and the front grill? If it is there are three relays in mine. A large one that seems to always energize when I take it out and then plug it in and two smaller black ones. I would suspect one of those to be the fog light relay but there are no markings on the box or my manual indicating what's what. Which one is the fog relay and what do the other two do?


Thanks I think I'm almost done.


On your first question you can just make the test with a test light or voltmeter,just make sure you have voltage all the way. Disconnecting the connector and jumping pins 12 to 13 are just taking the LOM out of the equation.To see if it was the culprit. If you have power on pin 13 then go to C148 to see if you have it there to pin-point what direction to follow,either back toward the dash or out towards the light itself. The harness will leave C148 and follow the left front fender then go across the top of the radiator support.You can see the harness in the picture below.


C148 is under the hood near where the firewall and left fender meet.


The connector 268 is at the fog lamp switch itself.


The daytime running lamps are for if equipped. Usually unless it is a Canadian vehicle you will not have them.


The auxiliary relay box 2 is the one near the air filter behind the right headlight.




I do not have a diagram of which relay is which but you should be able to look at the wire colors from the schematic I sent you previously to find which one it is.


Basically how the fog lamps work is the coil side of the relay is provided power by the headlight switch and the fog lamp switch provides ground. When the headlights are turned on power is sent to pin 1(dark blue/light green wire) then when you turn on the fog lamp switch ground is provided to the coil on pin 2(Light blue/Black wire). This energizes the coil which creates a magnetic field. This magnetic field then pulls the switch side of the relay closed so power from fuse 15 on pin no 3(black/yellow wire) can flow to the bulbs on pin 5(tan/orange wire).


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