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Experience:  30 yrs,experience shop owner,
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2006 Ford F250 6.0 powerstroke turbo diesel I ask about

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2006 Ford F250 6.0 powerstroke turbo diesel

I ask about a problem with this truck a few days ago but the answer was not the problem. While bring the truck back to my shop the owner stopped to buy a soda. Turned the truck off, went inside and purchased his drink, came back out and the truck would not start. Towed him to my shop. Once there I removed the fuel filter cap located on the top of the engine where the filter was at. I had a small amount of air bubbles and when I turned on the key, very little fuel escaped. What amount of pressure should I read on my gauges? Any suggestions as to what is wrong? I have used "just answer" many times in the past and don't mind spending the money but would like to have someone this time who can point me in the right direction.

here is the fuel presure specs and a few other possible things to check

Tests/Procedures:1. Check the fuel pressure at the secondary fuel filter housing. The fuel pressure should be 45-60 PSI (ideally 50-60 PSI). If the fuel pressure is low, check the power and ground to the fuel pump and replace the pump as needed.

2. If the fuel pressure is OK, check the fuel pulse width reading when cranking. The reading will normally show between 0.5-2.0ms cranking.

3. If the fuel pulse width is correct, perform the injector buzz test to verify the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) is powered up and able to control the injectors.
Potential Causes:Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump Circuit

Tests/Procedures:1. If the oil supply is OK, check the ICP system for any leaks when it's not starting. When working on a 2005 or newer E-Series vehicle connect the shop air pressure to the test port on the high pressure pump itself (this is a port that normally has a pipe plug in it and can be accessed by removing the doghouse inside the vehicle). Connect shop air pressure to it. With air applied, turn the key on and either use a scanner to command the Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) closed (if the function is available) or backprobe the Yellow/Red (Y/R) wire at the IPR and ground it. There should be very little to no air heard in the crankcase with the IPR grounded.

2. If there is no difference in the air heard when turning the key on and grounding the IPR, suspect a leaking IPR or leak in the system. Remove the valve covers to check for any leaks at the injectors. If none are found, remove the rear engine cover to access the ICP pump and check for any leaking lines or connections and repair as needed.

3. If there are no leaks but there is air heard when pressurizing the system, suspect a faulty IPR. Replace it and recheck operation.

4. If there is no air heard when pressure testing the system, suspect a faulty ICP pump.
Potential Causes:Leaking Fitting
Injection Control Pressure Pump
Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR)
Leaking Injector
Leaking Line
Tests/Procedures:1. The ICP needs to reach at least 500 PSI before the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will begin to fire the injectors. The IPR will increase up to 85% at maximum command if the ICP is not building.

2. Locate the Yellow/Red IPR control wire in pin 2 of the middle connector on the PCM (the PCM is located on the driver side fender apron, next to the battery). Then check the voltage on the Yellow/Red wire when cranking (with the IPR connected), to verify that the voltage drops as the command on the scanner increases.

3. If the voltage drops below 6 volts, but the ICP will not build, suspect an IPR or high pressure oil pump problem, or a leak in the high pressure oil system. Remove the IPR for inspection. There is a fine screen in the end of the IPR. If there is any damage to the screen, or there are metal fragments on the screen, the high pressure oil pump is damaged and will need to be replaced along with the IPR. If the screen looks OK, replace the IPR first and re-check operation.

4. If the IPR is not the problem, the system will need to be pressure tested for leaks before condemning the high pressure oil pump. Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 08-18-6 contains useful information on leak testing.
Potential Causes:Defective High Pressure Oil Pump
Leaking High Pressure Oil System
Defective Injection Pressure Regulator
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

When I first had the truck in my shop I did a buzz check on the injectors and they were fine. The fuel pump is coming on and running like its suppose to when cycling switch and the voltage to the fuel pump is correct. Where is the secondary fuel filter located?


If its on top of the engine next to the EGR valve, that's the one I took the cover off with the fuel filter inside of it. That's the one that has a trinkle of fuel coming out with white foam.

yes the secondary is on top and the primary is on the frame rail about even with the drivers seat
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Thank you so much. When I get to work in the morning, I now know what the problem is. When this truck is off my back, I am DONE with 6.0 diesels.


How can I get back with you via just answer if I run into a problem tommorrow?

just reply back to me here
Ford expert and 5 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
In your survey I clicked the wrong box. I will surely use this tech again. He knows what he is talking about. Thank you
thank you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Sean - In regards XXXXX XXXXX 06 Ford f250, the fuel pressure was a little low so I replaced the fule pump. Ran a scan but had no codes. Thruck still won't run without ether. The previous codes (memory codes) are as follows...


1 1-8 injectors current low

2 EGR performance P0404

3 EGR throttle position

control circuit P0487

4 System voltage low P0562

5. FIC moduel preformance P0611


Can you help me again working with this information?

Tests/Procedures:1. Perform the injector 'click' test for equal sound. Replace any that are dull or muted.

2. Perform a compression check on the cylinders with a miss for greater than 350 PSI.

3. Swap the fuel injector in cylinder #4 with the injector in cylinder #6. Again perform a contribution test and if the miss follows the injector, replace the faulty injectors.
Potential Causes:Engine Mechanical
Defective Fuel Injectors



Tests/Procedures:1. Access connector C1388c (the 32 terminal connector) at the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM). Check pins 1, 2, 3, 22, and 26 Black/Pink (BK/PK) wires for good ground. Be sure to check all circuits with a load such as a halogen headlamp bulb. Repair as needed.

2. If the grounds are OK, in the same connector check pin 7 Violet/Orange (VT/OG) wire for battery voltage from the ignition switch with key on.

3. If battery voltage is present on pin 7, ground pin 27 Red/Yellow (RD/YE) wire to turn on the FICM power relay. Then check for battery voltage on pin 8 White/Black (WH/BK) wire from fuse #15 15A in the battery junction box and pins 4, 23, 24, and 25 Dark Green/Light Green (DG/LG) wires from the FICM power relay.

4. If all powers and grounds are OK, inspect all wiring to the FICM for any possible shorting or poor connections.

5. If all wiring and connections are OK, suspect a faulty FICM.
Potential Causes:Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM)
Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) Circuit
Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) Relay
Tech Tips:If the FICM is replaced, it will need to be programmed in the vehicle with a factory scanner or equivalent.






Customer: replied 7 years ago.
RE: 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 Took the truck to a local dealership. While there, they changed to oil and oil filter. They said it could be either the Injector Pressure Regulator (IPR) or the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) or the FICM. They wanted to much to I brought the truck back to my shop. Where is the IPR and the HPOP located?

the ipr and the hpop are located in the rear top of the engine , very difficult to access

if you are going to do the ipr alone it is sometimes easier to replace from under the truck and reach over the trans bellhousing on the left side

Ford expert and 5 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Took off turbo to get to IPR. It has a hole in the screen. Since I have the top of the motor torn down, what is all involved in removing the HPOP? I see a square tube on the left hand side above the pump. Do I remove it and if so or not how?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
SEAN - My last sentence makes no sense. How do I remove the HPOP? Sending more money to you for all your help. Thanks


Special Tool(s)

Special Tool(s)



  1. Remove the turbocharger.
  2. Remove the turbocharger inlet Y-pipe.



  1. Remove the retaining nuts from the heat shield bracket.
    • Position the ground wire aside.



  1. Disconnect the wiring retainer from the back of the heat shield bracket.



  1. Remove the bolts and heat shield.



  1. Position back the heat insulating wrap and disconnect the fuel injection pressure regulator (IPR) valve electrical connector.



  1. If equipped, unsnap and remove the heat insulating wrap.



  1. Remove the IPR valve.



  1. CAUTION: Use care when removing the pump cover. The 3 bolts remaining in the pump cover under the EGR cooler can fall out of the pump cover and into the engine under the high-pressure pump. Remove or loosen the bolts as needed.



  1. CAUTION: To prevent engine damage, do not pry the high-pressure pump cover from the pump or damage to the cover can occur. Use a thin gasket scraper to separate the cover from the crankcase at the rear cover seam.



  1. Remove the bolts on the high-pressure tube assembly.



  1. Remove the bolts and the high-pressure oil pump.



  1. Remove and discard the lower O-ring seals.



  1. Using the special tool, disconnect and remove the high-pressure tube assembly.



  1. Remove and discard the high-pressure oil pump O-ring seal.



  1. CAUTION: To prevent engine damage, use only approved pump cover seal. Substitution can cause damage to the pump cover. Install a new O-ring seal on the high-pressure oil pump.



  1. Install the high-pressure tube assembly.



  1. Install new lower O-ring seals.



  1. Install the high-pressure pump and bolts.
    • Tighten to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft) .



  1. Install the bolts for the high-pressure tube assembly.
    • Tighten to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft) .



  1. Install a new press-in-place gasket in the high-pressure pump cover.



  1. Clean the cover mounting surface and apply sealer at the seams.



      • To prevent engine damage, use care when installing the high-pressure pump cover with fasteners. The 3 bolts in the cover can fall out of the cover and into the engine under the high-pressure pump.
      • To prevent engine damage, the high-pressure oil pump cover must be firmly seated on the O-ring seal to prevent cracking the cover plate.


  • Use a tool such as the Snap-On FRDH101 or GFRDH101 to aid in accessing the bolts under the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler.
  • Apply clean engine oil to the high-pressure oil pump O-ring seal prior to installing the high-pressure pump cover.

Install the high-pressure oil pump cover and remaining bolts.

  • Tighten to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft) .



  1. Install the IPR valve.
    • Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft) .



  1. If equipped, install the heat insulating wrap and fasten the snap.



  1. Connect the IPR valve electrical connector and position back the heat insulating wrap.



  1. Install the heat shield and bolts.
    • Tighten the large bolts to 49 Nm (36 lb-ft) and the small bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft) .



  1. Connect the wiring retainer to the back of the heat shield bracket.



  1. Position back the ground wire and install the retaining nuts.
  2. Install the turbocharger inlet Y-pipe.
  3. Install the turbocharger.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Sean - Here's some more money for you. I'm trying to get more for all the help you've be with this 2006 Ford truck. I got the truck running (thanks to you) now one more thing. I have the code PO678 cylinder 8 glow plug circuit Can you give me some ideas. If it is the #8 glow plug is it on the passenger or the driver side of the engine?

yes the #8 glow plug is in the right rear position

most commonly this may be a bad connection or a faulty glow plug control module

Tests/Procedures:1. Verify a good connection on the terminal in pin 2 of the Black connector, and if OK, replace the GPCM. There is no condition which would cause the GPCM to shut off power to just one glow plug.
Potential Causes:

Poor Glow Plug Connections
Malfunctioning Glow Plug Control Module (GPCM)



Possible CausesSetting Conditions
  • Glow Plug 8 connector is damaged (check pins for damage, moisture)
  • Glow Plug 8 power circuit is open or shorted to ground
  • Glow Plug 8 has failed
  • Glow Plug Green and Black connectors could be mismatched
  • PCM has failed

Ford expert and 5 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Sean - Took the 06 Ford truck and had the FICM replaced. Drove it down the road before loading it on the roll back and it ran perfect. Took it back to my shop to check the glow plug circuit. When I went to pull it into the shop the truck had NO power. It idles good but when you rev it up it acts as though the exhaust is blocked, which was the original problem with the truck. There also was a hissing sound coming from the exhaust pipe. Removed the pipe from the back of the turgo that goes to the exhaust which runs out the back of the truck. Started it up and had very little exhaust coming out of the turbo. I than removed the turbo and tore it down completely but found nothing wrong. Could it be the actuator not opening up the vanes for the exhaust to escape? I also removed and cleaned the EGR valve before I tore it down

yes most likley the actuator was not moving the vanes . this variable geometry turbo has been a nightmare on some of these trucks

here are a few tests to do

Tests/Procedures:1. Monitor exhaust back pressure sensor pressure with scan tool while driving under load. Pressure should not exceed 30 PSI.

2. If pressure exceeds 30 PSI, install manual gauge in place of sensor to verify reading.

3. If pressure is verified high, begin isolating possible restrictions.

a. Exhaust gas recirculation valve

b. Exhaust gas recirculation cooler

c. Catalytic converter (California vehicles).

4. If above are ok, suspect fault in turbo assembly, disassemble turbo as per TSB 08-16-3. Some can be cleaned, however if excessive corrosion is found turbo will need to be replaced. Recommend replacing the turbo actuator at the same time.
Potential Causes:Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve
Restricted Exhaust System

Tests/Procedures:1. Monitor the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor reading on the scanner at the same time as monitoring the exhaust backpressure reading. Also monitor the exhaust backpressure sensor voltage on the scanner or by back probing the Violet/Light Blue (VT/LB) wire at the sensor. The exhaust backpressure sensor should read roughly 14-15 PSI or about 1.0v Key On Engine Off or at idle.

2. If the reading is incorrect, check the Brown/White (BR/WH) wire at the sensor for 5v and the Gray/Red (GY/RD) wire for a good ground. If OK, replace the sensor.

3. If the reading is OK Key On Engine Off or at idle, rev the engine and see how high the MAP sensor is going when the exhaust backpressure goes to 34 PSI. If the MAP sensor is not increasing to within roughly 5 PSI of the exhaust backpressure sensor, check for a restricted exhaust. Start with checking to see if the truck is equipped with a catalytic converter. If so, drop it loose and recheck operation. If the reading is then better, address the restricted exhaust.

4. If the reading is still high with the exhaust dropped loose, check for a malfunctioning Variable Geometry Turbocharger (VGT). Refer to TSB 06-23-2 for information on cleaning and repairing the variable part of the turbo and recheck operation.
Potential Causes:Exhaust Backpressure Sensor
Restricted Exhaust System
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Sean - same truck new headaches. I changed out the EGR value and the truck runs better but not perfect. I have a hissing sound coming from the turbo at an idle. If I unplug the actuator the sound goes away until I replug it. Any ideas? Also I have the following codes...


P2263 TC/SC boost system performance

P1408 EGR flow out of range

P0299 TC/SC under boost


thank you

most commonly this is a dirty turbo , here is the tsb on it ,


Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Sean - the 2006 Ford - I tore down the turbo and cleaned it. Drove the truck down the road and when I got on it, the pipe ( looking at the engine left side of turbo) blew off. At an idle if I put my hand on the pipe it shuts down the engine so I have plenty of vacuum to the cooler. The blue hose that the pipe hooks to at an idle has a little air coming out. The only thing I have not changed is the VGT. What's next?
Yes I have to agree with you, if you did all the tests above and found no other problems then yes only other reason for the host a blow off is a faulty VGT .
Ford expert and 5 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

To whom it may concern - This tech, Sean, is one awsome person. Just Answer you are lucky to have him with you. He helped me with a nightmare from hell and I WILL use him again in the future.


Sean - if this comes to you, please forward it to the site that you work for. Thank you for everything. Truck is now running great. Tommorrow, the glow plug. Again thank you so much. Just sent more money your way. Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX and thank you.


Happy New Years

thank you and have a happy new year
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Sean - in regards XXXXX XXXXX glow plugs. I removed the valve cover on the pass. side and found a large medal housing on top of the rocker arms. I hate to remove it and it not being the glow plugs. Off each cylinder I have 4 wires (red,black,white,and blue) which one goes to the glow plugs? I can't see with the housing in the way.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Also is there any way to check the glow plug from the plug itself that goes to the glow plug?

here is an amperage test you can do to verify if the glow plug is working

Tests/Procedures:1. The best way to diagnose is to confirm glow plug current at least 20A per unit.

2. If checking this way is not possible, an alternate method would be to first verify glow plug resistance is under 1 ohm cold.

3. If OK, verify B+ is present to that glow plug with the key on and solenoid energized.

4. If this test checks OK, swap the glow plug with one from another cylinder and recheck for code to follow glow plug to the other cylinder and replace it if so.

and here is the plow plug replacement procedure


Remover/Installer, Glow Plug Connector

Special Tool(s)


  1. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wiring to remove the glow plug connector or damage may occur. NOTE: Only one glow plug connector shown. Using the special tool, remove the glow plug harness.

  1. NOTE: If coolant residue is found on the glow plug, a new glow plug sleeve may have to be installed. Remove the glow plug.


  1. Install the glow plug.
    • Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb-ft) .

  1. Clean and apply clean engine oil to the O-ring seals.

  1. Using the special tool, install the glow plug harness.