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F250: fuel injected..wont start..Electrical burn odor in the cab…

F250 5.8 fuel injected died...
F250 5.8 fuel injected died, won't start, no spark. Electrical burn odor in the cab.
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Answered in 17 minutes by:
9/29/2009
Kenny Z.
Kenny Z., Ford Senior Master Tech
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 5,878
Experience: Auto Trans, Drivability and Electrical Specialist
Verified

HiCustomer Thank you for asking your question on JustAnswer.

 

At this point even though you smell burning in the cab I would check for power and ground pulse at the coil to see which way to proceed with diagnostics.

 

At the coil connector find the red/light green wire. Hook a 12 volt test lamp to battery ground and check for power on that wire in the run and start positions. This verifies the power side of the coil circuit from the ignition switch to the coil.

Now find the tan/yellow wire at the coil connector. Hook your test lamp to battery positive and probe this wire while cranking the engine over. The light should flash steadily while the engine is cranking. If you have power in run and crank during the first test and no flash then I would replace the stator (hall effect) in the distributor.

If you have no power then don't bother with the tan/yellow wire as it won't flash if there is no power. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

 

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I'll run this test tomorrow. Will reply tomorrow evening.

Thank you,

b544
Ok sounds good.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I had power in the run and start positions at the red/green wire.

Nothing at tan/yellow run or start.

I'll pull the distributor tomorrow morning and replace the stator.

I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow evening.

Thanks,

Jim
Customer


Ok, it could possibly be an ignition module also, you can have them tested at the parts store. Usually its the stator. When you tested the tan/yellow the test lamp was on positive correct?
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I used a DC volt meter. Positive lead on positive batt terminal and neg lead on tan/yellow terminal.
Ok, I have never used a volt meter for that test, I really can't see how it would work, the waveform is very high frequency (fast) I don't think a voltmeter whether digital or analog would be able to see the switching. A test lamp is really the only way to perform this test conclusively.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I'll do it again with a test light before I do anything else. I couldn't find my test light so I used a digital
meter.

This is my first visit at JustAnswer, and I'm confused about the Accept button. Should I click on it after
each exchange, or should I wait till we are done with the problem?

Your help is appreciated.

No problem, you can accept anytime you feel your question has been answered. I only have a choice of requesting info or answering, thats why the accept button keeps showing up. When you accept you will be charged the amount that you listed your question for. So if and when you do accept only do it once because it will charge you each time you click accept.

 

Have a good evening.

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Kenny, I just checked it with the test light. With the ignition switch off, the light came on when I
connected the alligator clip to tan/yellow terminal. Run pos. - no light. Start - no light.
Will proceed with pulling the distributor in the morning.

Thanks again,

Jim
Ok good luck.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago


Day job getting in the way of things. I've got the distributor back together and ready to install but I'm out of time for today. Have to go out this evening. I'll
get back on it tomorrow.

Kenny, I can't find the ignition module! Where is it approximately located? I found a test receptacle for the EEC module but that's all. I have a Chilton book that
says the TFI-IV module is part of the distributor. Unless it is part of the stator assembly, I don't see anything else there.

Thank you for your help.

Jim

Jim,

The TFI ignition module is mounted on the drivers side inner fender apron about 10" out from the firewall. It should be mounted in a heat sink frame. See pic below.

 

graphic

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
No luck, Kenny. Got the distributor back in without any problems. The ignition module tested bad at the store. New one didn't make any difference. Still no spark. Looks like the only thing left is the ignition coil, and the computer. I'll get the coil checked this evening or in the morning. (The coil ohmed out OK, but, it's not that hard to take in in and test it.)

Jim

Do you have flash at the coil tan / yellow now??

 

If there is no flash with the test lamp attached to the positive battery post and the tan and yellow wire while cranking then the coil will never fix it.

 

The computer does not do a whole lot for spark other then ask for timing changes from the ignition module through the spout wire.The stator/module combo controls the coil not the computer.Try unplugging the spout connector while cranking and see if it will flash then.The spout connector is in the module harness and will have 2 pink wires going to it.

 

If you still have no flash then you most likely have a wiring issue in one of the wires for the module.

 

graphic

 

 

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
No flash in the run or start position. I'm still wondering about the burn odor in the cab. I think it is coming from the steering column. When it conked out, I had just left the house, got a half block away when it died. There was a strong electrical burn odor immediately.

The only thing that would make sense would possibly be the ignition switch or wiring connector. If this went open then the effect would be no power at the coil or the ignition module or possibly the computer. Do you know if the injectors are firing when cranking the engine? Does the check engine light come on with the key on and go out when cranking the engine?
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I don't know about the injectors. I think the check engine light comes on and then goes out when cranking but will double check in the morning. Too dark out there now.

Thanks,

Jim

Ok talk to you tommorow
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago

Check engine light is on in run pos. and dims but does not go out in crank.

Test light does not come on at all at tan/yel coil connector with spout disconnected. Run or start.

While I am hard of hearing, I could always hear the fuel pump run when I would first turn the ignition switch on, and I could hear a switch shut it off. Now I don't hear the fuel pump running but still hear the switch open after about a second. Same with the other tank.

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but I did depress the valve core in the access valve in the injector manifold. There was no venting or release of any pressure. This was with the ignition switch in RUN position.

Jim





Jim,

 

At this point the next step would be to do some fundamental checks such as power and grounds at the PCM and verify the feeds off the ignition switch. If you want to press on with this yourself let me know and I will get you some diagrams and pinouts for what to check. I could also opt out and open the problem up to the other experts and see if someone wants to take a shot at it if you would prefer. Let me know how you would like to proceed.

 

Thanks,

Kenny



Edited by Kenny Z on 10/2/2009 at 11:17 PM EST
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Kenny, I'll stay with it a couple of more days. If you would, please send me the diagrams.

Thanks,
Jim

Ok Jim, I will get on it, back with you soon.
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At the PCM connector I would start by checking for battery voltage at pins 1,37 and 57 with the key on. Also check for ground at pins 20,40 and 60.( see pinout diagrams). I also included the ignition switch connector pin out, the pin descriptions are listed there also so you know what each pin is for. I would also check as much as you can at the TFI module connector using the diagram I provided earlier. Also check fuses P,N,J,I,O in the engine compartment fuse box with the key on.

 

graphic

 

graphic

 

graphic

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Thanks, Kenny.

Jim
Your welcome Jim and good luck!
Kenny Z.
Kenny Z., Ford Senior Master Tech
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 5,878
Experience: Auto Trans, Drivability and Electrical Specialist
Verified
Kenny Z. and 87 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Kenny, It's time for me to let the pros have it. I worked on it some Sat. & Sun with no luck. I think the fuel pumps are working OK . Friday evening when it was quieter out there, I could hear them run, and could hear something going on with the injectors.

I was out of town Mon. and Tues. Yesterday & today were rough work days. Hopefully, I'll get it towed in to the shop tomorrow, and let them have it.

Thank you for all your help, It was greatly appreciated.

Jim

Jim,

You are welcome, and thanks for the bonus. Most generous of you. Please let me know what they find. Good luck to you!!

Kenny

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Hi Kenny,
The mechanic got to my truck today. A wire to the computer had shorted to ground and burned up
part of the computer. He repaired the wire and replaced the computer (EEC) and I'm back in business.
He showed me the old computer but he didn't need too. I could smell it 3 feet away. That was where the burn odor was coming from.
We were on the right trail, and if I could of figured out where the computer was located, I may of been
able to make the repair myself but no matter, it's fixed. Thanks again for your technical help.

Best regards,

Jim

Jim,

Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the info.

 

Take care,

 

Kenny

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Satisfied Customers: 5,878
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