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2000 Ford F150 wont start,it seems that the anti-theft unit

will not let it start...
2000 Ford F150 wont start,it seems that the anti-theft unit will not let it start, how do I reset the theft system
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Answered in 34 minutes by:
10/29/2008
Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose), Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 49,120
Experience: 16 years experience
Verified

Hello, I'm Chris, a current Ford Lincoln Mercury employee.

 

Thanks for visiting Just Answer. I will do my very best to help you resolve your concerns by asking questions if needed then suppling a answer. Gaining your TRUST in myself and knowledge is my goal. I try my hardest to respond in a timely matter and I will respond to any reply anytime I am on line.

 

What is the theft light doing with the key out?

What is it doing with the key in the ignition with it turned to run or start?

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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
Theft light is blinking without key on ignition...
With key on ignition the theft light is off but all rest of pre-ignition lights come on.

Ok this means the PATS syetem is operating correct you need to check your input signals to and from the starter relay. Possible causes are the ignition switch or the starter relay or wiring or manual or auto trans safety switches since you stated you can jump the starter and it works.

graphicgraphic

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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
Where is the starter relay located..inside under dash panel or outside fuse box.??is there a specific # XXXXX look for on starter relay? too many possibilities not very clear yet, where do you suggest I start first?
Start at the real ywhich is mounted on the firewall above the passenger side valve cover.
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
Is that a box looking thing or is it what I call silinoid mounted on the fire wall that has wires going to battery and two copper bolts? if that is it..I been turning truck on by making contact with them two bolts..is that the starter relay? I also replaced that with a new one just incase it was that

Yes this is the starter relay/solenoid.

You need to see if it is getting ignition input signal to fire. If not then checj the starter interrupt signals like the TR sensor or clutch switch and then to the ignition switch.

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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
is the TR sensor visible? and how do I check for interrupt signal?

Turn the switch to start and see if there is power coming out of the ignition switch and then past the TR sensor indicating park or neutral. The TR sensor is on the drivers side of the trans externally mounted.

graphic

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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
going to have to try all this during the day,,its dark outhere, can we continue this tomorrow or do i have to hit accept ?
You can hit accpet now or then. Hitting accpet is a "I trust you basis to do this if helpful" You can still reply after an accept right here on this post. I will be back online same time tommorrow evening.
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
ok at the begining it asked me for a $9 deposit..is that what will get charged to the credit card or thats just a deposit for bigger charge? can you get back at me tomorrow so we can discuss weather it works or not? right now I;m not doing anything you have asked me cause its dark outside and I have no lighting, but will do it in the morning...can i just close the window and you can email me with link to get back at you then.

When you hit accept 9$ is all you pay. You have already been debited since you have a deposit but the money and credit is not forwarded to me till you hit accept.

You can close the website and just login tommorrow and reply if needed

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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
yeah well I wont know if any of this things will work until I try them, so can we continue this tomorrow to see if it worked. Dont want to get stucked paying tomorrow again to continue this same topic..I will bookmark this page and log in tomorrow..good nite!

Hear from you then. You only pay when you hit accept.

Hit it once pay 9 dollars. Hit it 5 times pay 45 dollars.

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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
ok see ya tomorrow
bye
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
Moose I'm back..listen I tried the starting relay did as u asked me...but I was not sure where or what wire to test to see if i got juice..there is this wire colored (light tan and red stripe) is that the one going to ignition? also the TR sensor is mounted on the actual trannie? and how do I test that? I'm doing this on my own so I might need someone to hit the key while I go and test current flow right?
The tan/red does go to the ignition. You need to connect your volt meter or wire probe light and sit in the vehicle and try to start it and see if it lights up or signals 12 volts. If it does then this indicates everything up to the relay is good.
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
ok done that and there is not a light coming on at the probe I'm using.....
OK now check fuse 21 under the dash on both sides while cranking to verify it is getting hot on both sides.
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
my test probe just took a dive...burned out..not working wiil go and buy one.
OK keep in touch, reply when you get a new one.
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
Ok Moose did the test on relay tan/red wire and my probe light does not come on, then put wire back on relay and went to fuse # XXXXX while cranking switch i put the probe on both sides of fuse and probe light did not turn on.....what's next?...
Customer reply replied 9 years ago
moose u there?
Just logged on, gonna provide some more info in less than 10 minutes
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If these test pass then you have a faulty ignition switch or wire, not the actual lock cylinder where the key goes

graphicgraphic

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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
Ok now it got dark on me...but have the bottom part of dash console out and have most wires exposed.....I'm trying to understand what needs to be done next..I'm working with the diagrams u showing me..I dont have a manual to see exactly where to look for certain wires or modules...

The first pic I sent just a moment ago was just me showing you where I was going next for the fuse to get powered. The second diagram shows the fuses to check in the batttery junction box which is under the hood near the fender. The ignition is switch is on the column.

To remove the steering column shrouds you remove the tilt lever (screwed in)then the lower cover (phillips head screws). Now insert a pic in the igniion lock cylinder housing underside with the ignition in run so you can pull the lock cylinder and key out so you can get the top cover off.

I am going out of town bright and early in the morning and will return sunday night.

graphic

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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
ok have all that done..have steering column exposed as well now where is the parts that need to get replaced ?
No parts are getting replaced yet. Your still testing to see which part is faulty or which wire is not sending the signal. The ignition switch is onthe steering column shown in the picture above.
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
yes i have that exposed but the pic above does not resemble anything I'm looking at...thats the switch right? its a close up shop of something but I cant make what it is...
graphicgraphic
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
ok I found # XXXXX of the diagram the ignition switch...white box right? so how do I test the switch? any specific wire I need to check..
Customer reply replied 9 years ago
listen I also did the fuse box under the hood checked fuse # XXXXX and 10 they all show current flowing through at that fuse box....however only one side is lighting up of the 2 prongs on 113 and 111..i took box off and check the underneath part and there is juice also....then I went to switch and tested the wires coming from box Yellow is hot, Light green violet is hot, Orange and yellow NOT hot at ignition switch. ut all of this wires are showing hot at the battery juction box.
Customer reply replied 9 years ago
are you there? I still need help
You tst the ignition switch by turning it to start and seeing if the red/light blue wire gets hot. If it does not then see if the light green/violet wire is hot all the time. If it is not then you have a wire or fuse box issue. Follow the diagrams I have sent you showing the wire colors and where they come from and where they go which ends in a rsult of turning on the fuse in the dash to start the vehicle.
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
ok tested red/light blue and it gets hot when switch on start...light green/violet is always hot...next?
OK then you have verified the R/LB wire is not connected from the ignition switch to the fuse box in the vehicle fuse 21. You need to follow the wire to the box and then disassmeble the box if the concern is inside.
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
Moose welcome back....hey listen I already found the problems....by mistake or should I say I got lucky...The problem was not the ignition wires it was the on this thing..like the chip reader thats mounted under the steering column..I'm not sure if I can explain it but its a chip you put in in order for the truck to turn on..its a factory thing that I've seen in many cars before. Well the was a wire there making false contact..in the process of taking the dash off I stumble upon the problem....Hey thanks alot though for your help and for being patient w/ me..ok if I hit accept all I'm paying is the nine dollars right?.
Glad you found it and yes 9 dollars is all you pay when you hit accept
Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose), Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 49,120
Experience: 16 years experience
Verified
Chris (aka- Moose) and 87 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 9 years ago
Thanks Moose, will get back at you if I have any other questions in the future..have good one.
Your welcome, please do so on future questions
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Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose), Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 49,120
49,120 Satisfied Customers
Experience: 16 years experience

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