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Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose), Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 48654
Experience:  16 years experience
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2000 ford f-150: 8, 2 wheel drive, automatic..wouldnt start..Jumped

Resolved Question:

2000 ford f-150 5.4 liter triton v-8,XXXXX automatic. While out driving the radio quit.When we tried to start truck it wouldn't start. Jumped it off and started home. Battery light came on, ABS light came on and dash lights went out. Then headlights. Made it to the house and charged battery. Reconnected positive and started truck. Removed positive cable with truck running and it died. Disconnected battery and put on charger. Remove alternator and took to shop to have tested-it failed. Bought new alternator and installed, reconnected battery, and started truck. All seemed well. Removed positive battery cable and the truck kept running. good. Hooked cable up and went for drive but 45 minutes into drive the battery light came on again, and then the ABS light. Took it home and removed positive cable again and it keeps running leaving me to believe the new alternator is doing its job. Could the battery be shot (5 yrs old) causing this? Why would the battery and ABS lights come on?
Submitted: 9 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 9 years ago.

Hello, I'm Chris, a current Ford Lincoln Mercury employee.


Thanks for visiting Just Answer. I will do my very best to help you resolve your concerns by asking questions if needed then suppling a answer. Gaining your TRUST in myself and knowledge is my goal. I try my hardest to respond in a timely matter and I will respond to any reply anytime I am on line.


Both the alternator and battery need to be correctly tested. You also do not need to remove the battery cables while running this will create power spikes which can ruin the PCM and alternator. With your symptoms it sounds like a faulty battery. Also check the battery cable connections. If you did not use a motorcraft alternator then expect it to fail sooner than later.

All the warning indicators your getting are occuring from Vbatt loss meaning your getting under 12 volts.

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Customer: replied 9 years ago.
just cleaned connections and charged battery longer. Still getting battery light (flickering) and steady as rpm's increase. Also, as rpms increase the ABS light comes on. I noticed this time that the ammeter needle was halfway between L and H untill I started to drive and then went to H. Getting 16.8 volts with battery connected. If I take positive off (sorry, did this before I got your answer saying not to) I get 28.6 volts on positive cable to ground. I'll go take battery out of bronco and put in f-150 to see if the same thing happens or clears up. This will probably tell me if its the battery or not. Thinking I got a bad alternator. And no its not a motorcraft. Ford doesnt open on weekends around here so autoparts stores are your only option and NAPA closes at noon. That just leaves autozone.
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 9 years ago.
Keep in touch on this if needed and I can help you diagnose more if needed.
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Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Put battery out of bronco in f-150 and when I started it up the battery light came on and ammeter needle was half way between H and L. When I brought the rpms up the meter went to H and everything started going crazy. All the gauges would start to drop to zero and come back up again and again. All the cluster lights would flicker including the compass on the overhead console.
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 9 years ago.
Ok your looking at a issue with a poor volatage regulator in the alternator which is commanded via the manual alternator and electronically by the PCM. You will need to get the correct alternator in the vehicle to do charging system tests for the alternator and PCM.
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