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2001 f-150: fuel pump relay..all other fuses are good

What would cause a 2001...
What would cause a 2001 f-150 fuel pump relay not to get power? The fuel pump has been replaced, all other fuses are good. I even put a new relay in to see if it was the relay. Is this a bad connection problem?
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Answered in 14 minutes by:
11/15/2006
Rusty
Rusty, AUTO TECHNICAN
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 2
Experience: ASE, NASHVILLE AUTO/DIESEL GRAD, 10+YEARS EXP
Verified
Hello, have you checked the shutoff switch? I belive it is located in the passenger kick panel on the F150. Also, check to see if the check engine light goes off when attempting to start. This is a good place to start, get back to me after you check these out. Rusty [email protected]
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Customer reply replied 11 years ago
I checked the switch and it does not looked like it was set off, I even pressed the button in to see, and it did not push down, so I am assuming that the switch did not engage. I put stater fluid into the intake and the truck will start and run for a few seconds. I belive that the check engine light turns off when the truck cranks over, however, if it doesn't, what could this mean. I will definitetly check this tonight. Are there any circuits that I could test with a light tester to give me a better Idea where my power failure is coming from?
Customer reply replied 11 years ago
Reply to Rusty's Post: checked the switch and it does not looked like it was set off, I even pressed the button in to see, and it did not push down, so I am assuming that the switch did not engage. I put stater fluid into the intake and the truck will start and run for a few seconds. I belive that the check engine light turns off when the truck cranks over, however, if it doesn't, what could this mean. I will definitetly check this tonight. Are there any circuits that I could test with a light tester to give me a better Idea where my power failure is coming from?
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Customer reply replied 11 years ago
I put a light tester on that main fuel pump circuit and it has power, the switch is just not engaging. Does this mean that the new fuel pump is Bad?
Hello, since the truck starts on starting fluid. That tells me that we definitly have a fuel pressure problem. You can unplug the electrical connector for the fuel pump and check for +12v. However this will be difficult since the ECU only turns the pump on for a few seconds if the engine is not running. I checked the wiring diagram and, if you had +12v at the shutoff switch, you should have +12v at the pump. This also rules out the relay. I would be willing to bet that you either have a connection problem at the tank, or you have a bad fuel pump. Are you using a Ford fuel pump or aftermarket? I have had some bad luck in the past with aftermarket fuel pumps. I hope this helps. As always, let me know if I can help you any other way. Thank you for using Just Answer. Rusty [email protected]
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Customer reply replied 11 years ago
Rusty,
One last thing, There is something new to the equation that I thought I would tell you. I check my fuel pump by running a jumper wire and checked the fuel rail bleed off and the pump is providing pressure up to the fuel rails. I noticed that the security light is blinking everytime I try and start the vehicle. The key that I am using is not the original, I had a new one coded and made since the orginal was lost. The lock smith had to program the computer to read the new chip. Before I ran into the starting problem, I was using an OB2 computer code reader, and erased some codes. Do you think that this could have also erased the codes the lock smith put in to read my new key. Because after I detached the code reader and cleared the codes, the truck would not start after that. And ever since then, the security light blinks on and off when trying to start. I am wondering if the computer tells the injectors and fuel system not work when a foriegn key that can't be read is inserted. This would explain why when I put a jumper wire on the circuit the fuel pump turned on providing fuel pressure but the truck would still not start. It does crank over however. Could my new key be the problem? Do I need to get it re-programed?
Customer reply replied 11 years ago
by the way, I appreciate all your help!!!
Customer reply replied 11 years ago
Reply to Rusty's Post: Rusty,
One last thing, There is something new to the equation that I thought I would tell you. I check my fuel pump by running a jumper wire and checked the fuel rail bleed off and the pump is providing pressure up to the fuel rails. I noticed that the security light is blinking everytime I try and start the vehicle. The key that I am using is not the original, I had a new one coded and made since the orginal was lost. The lock smith had to program the computer to read the new chip. Before I ran into the starting problem, I was using an OB2 computer code reader, and erased some codes. Do you think that this could have also erased the codes the lock smith put in to read my new key. Because after I detached the code reader and cleared the codes, the truck would not start after that. And ever since then, the security light blinks on and off when trying to start. I am wondering if the computer tells the injectors and fuel system not work when a foriegn key that can't be read is inserted. This would explain why when I put a jumper wire on the circuit the fuel pump turned on providing fuel pressure but the truck would still not start. It does crank over however. Could my new key be the problem? Do I need to get it re-programed?
Hello, I wish I had known about the theft light before. You are exactly right. If the computer does not reconize the key, it will not energize the injectors. Clearing the codes should not be related to the theft problem. I have had these problems with aftermarket keys before. I don't mean to sound like I hate aftermarket parts, because I don't. Just be very careful with electrical parts. One thing you could check is the reciever at the ignition key. Remove the steering column shroud, and check the plastic ring around the lock cylinder. Also, follow the wiring from the reciever, and physically unplug the connector and plug it back in. Also, if there are any codes stored in the computer, they may be helpful. One more thing, unhook the battery for 10-15 minutes. Hang in there, we will get there eventually. I will try to check my e-mail more often. Thank you , and keep me posted. Rusty [email protected]
Rusty
Rusty, AUTO TECHNICAN
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 2
Experience: ASE, NASHVILLE AUTO/DIESEL GRAD, 10+YEARS EXP
Verified
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Rusty
Rusty
Rusty, AUTO TECHNICAN
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 2
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Experience: ASE, NASHVILLE AUTO/DIESEL GRAD, 10+YEARS EXP

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