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How to change clutch on 1992 f-150 and cylinders

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how to change clutch on...
how to change clutch on 1992 f-150 and slave cylinders
Submitted: 11 years ago.Category: Ford
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Answered in 14 minutes by:
9/10/2006
Ford Mechanic: HDGENE, Ford Senior Master/Diesel/Trans replied 11 years ago
HDGENE
HDGENE, Ford Senior Master/Diesel/Trans
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 5,999
Experience: 28 years Auto experience, Ford ,GM, Chrysler, Asian & European
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Mazda M5OD 5-Speed




  1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands. Prop the clutch pedal in the full up position with a block of wood.



  2. Matchmark the driveshaft-to-flange relation.



  3. Disconnect the driveshaft at the rear axle and slide it off of the transmission output shaft. Lubricant will leak out of the transmission so be prepared to catch it, or plug the opening with rags or a seal installation tool.



  4. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission.



  5. Disconnect the shift rods from the shift levers.



  6. Remove the shift control from the extension housing and transmission case.



  7. On 4WD drive models, remove the transfer case.



  8. Remove the extension housing-to-rear support bolts.



  9. Take up the weight of the transmission with a transmission jack. Chain the transmission to the jack.



  10. Raise the transmission just enough to take the weight off of the No.3 crossmember.



  11. Unbolt the crossmember from the frame rails and remove it.



  12. Place a jackstand under the rear of the engine at the bell housing.



  13. Lower the jack and allow the jackstand to take the weight of the engine. The engine should be angled slightly downward to allow the transmission to roll backward.



  14. Remove the transmission-to bell housing bolts.



  15. Roll the jack rearward until the input shaft clears the bell housing. Lower the jack and remove the transmission.


To install:




  1. Clean all machined mating surfaces thoroughly.



  2. Install a guide pin in each lower bolt hole. Position the spacer plate on the guide pins.



  3. Raise the transmission and start the input shaft through the clutch release bearing.



  4. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines. Roll the transmission forward so that the input shaft will enter the clutch disc. If the shaft binds in the release bearing, work the release arm back and forth.



  5. Once the transmission is all the way in, install the 2 upper retaining bolts and washers and remove the lower guide pins. Install the lower bolts. Tighten the bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).



  6. Raise the transmission just enough to allow installation of the No. 3 crossmember.



  7. Install the crossmember on the frame rails. Tighten the bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).



  8. Lower the transmission onto the crossmember and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).



  9. Remove the transmission jack.



  10. Install the transfer case.



  11. Install the shift control on the extension housing and transmission case.



  12. Connect the shift rods at the shift levers.



  13. Connect the speedometer cable at the transmission.



  14. Slide the driveshaft onto the output shaft and connect the driveshaft at the rear axle, aligning the matchmarks.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1 through 11

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 1: Remove the inspection plug to view the clutch assembly components

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 2: View of the clutch assembly with the transmission removed

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 3: Always use a clutch pilot tool during removal or installation of the clutch assembly

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 4: Using a holding tool, hold the driveplate and remove the clutch pressure plate-to-driveplate bolts

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 5: When removing the pressure plate be careful not to allow the fiction disc to drop

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 6: Examine the driveplate for cracks, heat spots and scoring

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 7: Using a holding tool, hold the drive plate and remove the driveplate bolts

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 8: Exercise extreme care when removing the driveplate, it is heavy

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 9: View of the rear engine section with the driveplate removed

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 10: Use a torque wrench to tighten the driveplate bolts and a crisscross pattern

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 11: With the clutch pilot tool in place, use a torque wrench to tighten the pressure plate-to-driveplate bolts

1990-96

See Figures 18, 19 and 20

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 18: Clutch assembly for 1990-96 F-150, F-250, and Bronco with the 4.9L, 5.0L and 5.8L engines, except with the Borg-Warner T-18 transmission

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 19: Clutch assembly for 1990-93 F-150, F-250, and Bronco with 4.9L, and 5.0L engines, with the Borg-Warner T-18 transmission

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 20: Clutch assembly for 1990-96 F-250 HD, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Stripped Chassis with the 7.4L diesel and 7.5L engines




  1. Raise and support the truck end on jackstands.



  2. On trucks with the externally mounted slave cylinder, remove the clutch slave cylinder. On trucks with an internally mounted slave cylinder, disconnect the quick-disconnect coupling with a spring coupling tool such as T88T-70522-A.



  3. Remove the transmission.



  4. On models with the internally mounted slave cylinder, remove the starter. Remove the flywheel housing attaching bolts and remove the housing. On models with the externally mounted slave cylinder, remove the cover and then remove the release lever and bearing from the clutch housing. To remove the release lever:




    1. Remove the dust boot.



    2. Push the release lever forward to compress the slave cylinder.



    3. Remove the slave cylinder by prying on the steel clip to free the tangs while pulling the cylinder clear.



    4. Remove the release lever by pulling it outward.



  5. Mark the pressure plate and cover assembly and the flywheel so that they can be reinstalled in the same relative position.



  6. Loosen the pressure plate and cover attaching bolts evenly in a staggered sequence a turn at time until the pressure plate springs are relieved of their tension. Remove the attaching bolts.



  7. Remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc from the flywheel.


To install:




  1. Position the clutch disc on the flywheel so that an aligning tool or spare transmission mainshaft can enter the clutch pilot bearing and align the disc




  1. When reinstalling the original pressure plate and cover assembly, align the assembly and flywheel according to the marks made during removal. Position the pressure plate and cover assembly on the flywheel, align the pressure plate and disc, and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts in an alternating sequence a few turns at a time until the proper torque is reached:




    • 10 in. and 12 in. clutch: 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)



    • 11 in. clutch: 20-29 ft. lbs. (27-39 Nm)




  1. Remove the tool used to align the clutch disc.



  2. With the clutch fully released, apply a light coat of grease on the sides of the driving lugs.



  3. Position the clutch release bearing and the bearing hub on the release lever. On the diesel and the 7.5L engine, clean and lubricate the transmission bearing retainer. Install the release lever on the fulcrum in the flywheel housing. Apply a light coating of grease to the release lever fingers and the fulcrum. Fill the groove of the release bearing hub with grease.



  4. If the flywheel housing has been removed, position it against the rear engine cover plate and install the attaching bolts and tighten them to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).



  5. Install the starter motor, if removed.



  6. Install the transmission.



  7. Install the salve cylinder and bleed the system


See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 1: Clutch hydraulic system used on 1987-89 trucks with the Diesel and 7.5L gasoline engines

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 2: Clutch hydraulic system used on trucks with the 4.9L, 5.0L and 5.8L engines

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 3: Clutch hydraulic system used on 1990-93 trucks equipped with the 4.9L, 5.0L and 5.8L engines and M5OD and ZF transmissions

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 4: Clutch hydraulic system used on 1990-96 F-Super Duty Stripped Chassis with the 7.3L diesel

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 5: Clutch hydraulic system used on 1990-93 trucks equipped with the 4.9L, 5.0L, 7.3L diesel or 7.5L engine, along with M5ODHD and Warner T-18 transmissions

The hydraulic clutch system operates much like a hydraulic brake system. When you push down (disengage) the clutch pedal, the mechanical clutch pedal movement is converted into hydraulic fluid movement, which is then converted back into mechanical movement by the slave cylinder to actuate the clutch release lever.

The system consists of a combination clutch fluid reservoir/master cylinder assembly, a slave cylinder mounted on the bell housing, and connecting tubing.

Fluid level is checked at the master cylinder reservoir. The hydraulic clutch system continually remains in adjustment, like a hydraulic disc brake system, so not clutch linkage or pedal adjustment is necessary.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 6: 1988-89 clutch hydraulic system on trucks with the 4.9L, 5.0L and 5.8L engines

There are 2 types of slave cylinders used: an internally mounted (in the bell housing) and an externally mounted type.




  • 1987 models use the externally mounted type



  • 1988-89 diesel engines and the 7.5L gasoline engine use the externally mounted type; all others use the internally mounted type



  • 1990-96 diesel engines, 7.5L gasoline engines and V8 gasoline engines equipped with the M50DHD transmission use the externally mounted type; all others use the internally mounted type




  1. From inside the vehicle, pry the pushrod and retainer bushing from the cross shaft lever pin.



  2. Disconnect the interlock switch connector plug.



  3. Remove the 2 retaining nuts and support bracket connecting the clutch reservoir and master cylinder assembly to the firewall.



  4. From the engine compartment, first note the clutch tube routing to the slave cylinder, then remove the attaching hardware for the hydraulic tube retaining clips.



  5. From the engine compartment, remove the clutch reservoir and master cylinder assembly from the firewall. On F-Series and Bronco, when the master cylinder studs are free of the dash panel, rotate cylinder counterclockwise about 100 degrees to clear the interlock switch and remove the cylinder from the vehicle.



  6. On 7.3L diesel and 7.5L gas engine vehicles, use a suitable prytool and lift the 2 retaining tabs of the slave cylinder retaining bracket. Disengage the tabs from the bell housing lugs and then slide outward and remove.



  7. On 4.9L, 5.0 and 5.8L engine vehicles, depress the release ring on the tube quick disconnect and gently pull the connector free of the concentric slave cylinder fitting.



  8. Remove the clutch hydraulic system from the vehicle.


To Install:




  1. Position the clutch fluid reservoir and master cylinder assembly into the firewall from inside the cab install the 2 nuts.



  2. Correctly route the hydraulic tubing and sleeve cylinder to the transmission bell housing.


Care must be taken during routing of the nylon line to keep away from the engine exhaust system.




  1. Reinstall the clutch tube retaining clips.


Before installing external type slave cylinders, perform the clutch system bleeding procedure.




  1. On 7.3L diesel and 7.5L gas engine vehicles, install the slave cylinder by pushing the slave cylinder pushrod into the cylinder. Engage the pushrod into the release lever and slide the slave cylinder into the bell housing lugs. Seat the cylinder into the recess in the lugs.



  2. On 4.9L, 5.0 and 5.8L engine vehicles, push the tube quick disconnect back onto the concentric slave cylinder fitting.


When installing a new hydraulic system, the external slave cylinder used on 7.3L diesel and 7.5L gas engine vehicles, contains a shipping strap that pre-positions the pushrod for installation and also provides a bearing insert. When installation of the slave cylinder is completed, the first actuation of the clutch pedal will beak the shipping strap and give normal system operation.

Concentric Slave Cylinder

See Figures 7 and 8

This type slave cylinder is internally located inside the bell housing on the transmission input shaft. Removal of the transmission is required in order to replace it.




  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



  2. Disconnect the fluid coupling at the transmission, using the clutch coupling removal tool T88T-70522-A or equivalent. Slide the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the tube.


If the special coupling tool is not available, the fluid coupling can be uncoupled by using a flat-bladed tool. Carefully pressing in around the coupling while applying a slight tug on the tube.




  1. Remove the transmission assembly.



  2. Remove the slave cylinder-to-transmission retaining bolts.



  3. Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission input shaft.


To install:




  1. Fit the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft with the bleed screws and coupling facing the left side of the transmission.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 7: Clutch hydraulic line removal

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 8: Concentric slave cylinder removal




  1. Install the slave cylinder retaining bolts. Tighten to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-26 Nm).



  2. Install the transmission.



  3. Connect the coupling to the slave cylinder.



  4. Properly bleed the hydraulic system.



  5. Connect the negative battery cable.


Internally Mounted Slave Cylinder

See Figure 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19

With the quick-disconnect coupling, no air should enter the system when the coupling is disconnected. However, if air should somehow enter the system, it must be bled.




  1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Fill the reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid.



  2. Connect a piece of rubber tubing to the slave cylinder bleed screw. Place the other end in a container.



  3. Loosen the bleed screw. Gravity will force fluid from the master cylinder to flow down to the slave cylinder, forcing air out of the bleed screw. When a steady stream with no bubbles flows out, the system is bled. Close the bleed screw.


Check periodically to make sure the master cylinder reservoir doesn't run dry.

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 9: Clutch release bearing removal with the concentric slave cylinder

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 10: View of the concentric slave cylinder and throwout bearing assembly

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 11: Removing the throwout bearing from the slave cylinder

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 12: Removing the concentric slave cylinder attaching bolts

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 13: Removing the concentric slave cylinder from the bell housing

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 14: If the special coupling tool is not available, the fluid coupling can be uncoupled with a flat-bladed tool

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 15: Gently pull fluid hose from the fitting

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 16: Always replace the O-ring seal

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 17: Use a box wrench to bleed the concentric slave cylinder at bleeder valve

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 18: Bleeding the external slave cylinder

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 19: Bleeding the concentric slave cylinder




  1. Add fluid to fill the master cylinder reservoir.



  2. Fully depress the clutch pedal. Release it as quickly as possible. Pause for 2 seconds. Repeat this procedure 10 times.



  3. Check the fluid level. Refill it if necessary. It should be kept full.



  4. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 five more times.



  5. Install the diaphragm and cap.




  1. Have an assistant hold the pedal to the floor while you crack the bleed screw (not too far-just far enough to expel any trapped air). Close the bleed screw, then release the pedal.



  2. Check, and if necessary, fill the reservoir.


One note on bleeding the system, I always take the master cylinder,line and slave, and lower the master lower than the slave with it attached,line and all.I basically bench bleed the system by stroking the clutch master cylinder with a screwdriver like you would a brake master cylinder to get the air out, the way the master sits on the body sometimes causes air to be trapped and you have a low brake pedal.Perform a conventional bleed like I mentioned a few times,then install the master where it belongs and bleed once or twice, pedal should be perfect.

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