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If you have a sec, I'd love to get some advice. Well I lost…

Hello! If you...

Hello! If you have a sec, I'd love to get some advice.

Contractor's Assistant: I'll do all I can to help. How long have you been dealing with this?

Well I lost power to only two rooms in my home. First the living room, which has been out for months. We ignored it because no one ever goes in the living room so it didnt matter. Then last night the power to our bedroom in all but one outlet. We do use our bedroom, so we do need to fix that lol. Any advice?

Contractor's Assistant: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

Perhaps

Contractor's Assistant: Anything else we should know to help you best?

The house was built and wired in the 60s.

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Answered in 6 minutes by:
3/12/2018
Kevin
Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor
Category: Electrical
Satisfied Customers: 4,419
Experience: 31 years Licensed Electrical Contractor in Illinois, Adjunct College Electrical Instructor, Former Electrical Inspector, Diploma: Digital Electronics, FCC Technician License
Verified

Hello and welcome to Just Answer. My name is ***** ***** I will be happy to assist you with your electrical question.

Please be patient as it takes time to type and provide links. Also note that the website may be sending you a telephone offer, the offer is not originating from me.

1) Is the living room and the bedroom on separate circuits or shared with 1 circuit?

2) Problems such as this are typically a loose wire termination or a faulty wire splice. For starters, I recommend that you try the Wiggle Procedure shown below at each of the dead receptacles. Keep in mind that the Wiggle Procedure does not always work, but it's worth a shot at trying. Faulty wire terminations or faulty splices can reside in other boxes such as switch, lighting or junction boxes. Thus the reason the Wiggle Procedure may not always work.

3) Do you have a multimeter to check voltages? A meter can easily determine if the problem is a hot wire or a neutral wire issue. The meter is required for troubleshooting.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I believe the two rooms are on different circuits. I do not have have a voltage tester but I do have a non contact voltage detector. I will go to the same store to find the meter. After doing the wiggle test, is it best to install a new outlet there? I've veeb wanting to upgrade the outlets for a while.

Thanks for the replies.

1) The non-contact tester is unable to measure voltage. You need a meter. Here is a good meter sold at Home Depot for $23.00. See link shown below:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Manual-Ranging-Digital-Multi-Meter-MS8301A/206177756

2) Receptacles very seldom fail. If you want to upgrade the receptacles, that's fine.

3) Once you get a meter, refer to the link shown below for the receptacle voltage measurements

Get a meter and reply back to me at this same question and we can continue. I will be leaving home here shortly and will return back in a few hours later this morning.

Thanks............Kevin

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I bought the tool and am in the process of replacing the outlets with new boxes. The problem om running into now is that it seems the wires are too big for the new outlet screws. Is it okay that the wire isn't completely covered by the screw top?

1) Look at the exterior insulation on the wires. What is the AWG size?

2) Are the wires copper or aluminum?

3) The wire will loop around the screw. Not sure what you mean by too big? 15 amp circuits should be 14 AWG copper or 12 AWG aluminum. 20 amp breakers should be 12 AWG copper or 10 AWG aluminum.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The wires unmarked in the box. I'm not sure how to get to more without taking out some wall. The wires are copper and I think I figured out the size issue. It just needed to be curled in tighter. I'll attack a picture of what I'm working with so far.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
After I replace this one I'm going to start on the wiggle procedure on the rest.

1) The wires are copper and they are either 14 or 12 AWG. Both wire sizes will fit onto any standard 15 or 20 amp receptacle.

2) The wires are properly looped around the screws. Prior to final tightening of the screws, take a needle nose pliers and squeeze the wire end back in towards the screw and then tighten.

3) OK let me know how you make out on the wiggle test.

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1) If you have any switched receptacles where 1/2 is live and the other 1/2 is switched, keep in mind that the brass metal tab located in between the 2 brass screws needs to be removed.

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1) I see that the home was built in the 60's. Were the circuit wired with a bare copper or green insulated ground wire or were they wired using EMT metal conduit? Many homes built in the 60's did not contain a ground wire. If no ground and installing 3 prong receptacles, the breaker will need to be a GFCI type per code. Not sure if the home originally had 2 or 3 prong receptacles?

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If you have any additional questions, just let me know and I’ll be glad to answer them for you.

Otherwise, don’t forget to rate me before you log Off.

Thanks.................Kevin:)

Kevin
Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor
Category: Electrical
Satisfied Customers: 4,419
Experience: 31 years Licensed Electrical Contractor in Illinois, Adjunct College Electrical Instructor, Former Electrical Inspector, Diploma: Digital Electronics, FCC Technician License
Verified
Kevin and 87 other Electrical Specialists are ready to help you
Ask your own question now
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Sorry for the late response time. I got called into work. I got the electricity up and running thanks to your help! I really appreciate it, especially since it snowed and we rely on plug in heaters. Thank you!

No problem, glad to assist.

Good job on your part and getting everything working.

Thank you for the positive service rating............much appreciated!

If you have any other questions, just let me know.

Take care and have a great evening............Thanks again............Kevin:)

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Category: Electrical
Satisfied Customers: 4,419
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