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I am replacing three pendant lights. I currently hooked up

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Hi Jason. I am replacing...
Hi Jason. I am replacing three pendant lights. I currently hooked up one pendant and used the old bulb to test and verify that it works. I turned on the power, and the bulb is lit. However, the dinner is no longer controlling it, so I cannot dim it or turn it off. This pendant had three sets of wires to connect, the second pendant has two sets and the third has one set. I was guessing that is because they are all wired together. Any idea what I did wrong?
Submitted: 1 year ago.Category: Electrical
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Answered in 3 minutes by:
1/6/2016
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago
Kevin
Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor
Category: Electrical
Satisfied Customers: 3,791
Experience: 31 years Licensed Electrical Contractor in Illinois, Adjunct College Electrical Instructor, Former Electrical Inspector, Diploma: Digital Electronics, FCC Technician License
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Hello and welcome to Just Answer. My name is ***** ***** I will be happy to assist you with your electrical question.

1) You mention that the one pendant light worked. Was it wired to the dimmer switch?

2) I assume that you want the dimmer switch to simultaneously control all 3 pendant lights at the same time, is that correct?

3) How many wires on each pendant light? 2 or 3 wires each?

4) Is there a separate ceiling box for each pendant light?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
1) Yes the pendant light worked, as in the bulb lit, however the dimmer was not working on it. The dimmer previously controlled all three lights Simultaneously and was the only way the pendants turned on and off. Yes it was previously wired to the dimmer switch.3) previous to hooking up each pendant, the pendant itself has one wire split two ways. Each one is the same. The wires are not marked black and white, the only way I guessed which side was white was because that side of the cord had writing printed on it just like the white cord coming out of the wall.4) I am not positive what a ceiling box is? Is that where the mounting plate it connected? If so, then yes there are three separate
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Thanks for the replies.

1) What are the wire colors on the pendant light?

Is the pendant light wire insulation a clear color or a brown color? Take a look at the wire extending out from the lights, does one side of the wire insulation have ribbed edges on it and the other side has a smooth insulation on it?

2) A ceiling electrical box is the box where the pendant lights are connected and wired to.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I would Hi Jason. I am replacing three pendant lights. I currently hooked up one pendant and used the old bulb to test and verify that it works. I turned on the power, and the bulb is lit. However, the dinner is no longer controlling it, so I cannot dim it or turn it off. This pendant had three sets of wires to connect, the second pendant has two sets and the third has one set. I was guessing that is because they are all wired together. Any idea what I did wrong?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Oops sorry about the text, it came through again
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Now after looking again, the side with the printed words is smooth and the blank side is ribbed
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, very good, Thanks for confirming.

Give me about 10 more minutes as I am creating a wiring diagram for you. I will be back shortly.........Thanks..........Kevin:)

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Perfect thank you Kevin. Is it possible that I blew the dimmer switch? Or would that be evident by my lights not coming on at all?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

No problem, glad to assist.

1) Any chance you have an AC voltmeter available as this can confirm if the dimmer switch is working correctly?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
No I don't believe so. I will check but pretty sure I do not. Just thought I heard a lighter popping sound when I flipped the power back on but couldn't tell if that was a click from the box or from upstairs
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

A popping sound indicates that a direct short circuit occurred and the breaker may have tripped. Have you reset the circuit breaker?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I have I think? As in, I flipped the breaker off and back on then checked again. The light still would not dim or respond to me pushing the switch all the way up or down which normally turned them on or off. But there isn't a reset button on the dimmer panel, if that is something I need to look for?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Depends on the type of dimmer switch you have. Some dimmers just have a rotary dial while other have a toggle ON/OFF and a smaller slide switch to control the dimming portion.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I just have a vertical slider. No separate toggle on side or bottom to control easy on and off
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes, that is a common dimmer type, similar to the one I showed on the diagram. The slider turns the switch ON & OFF and also controls the dimming feature.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok. So looks like since I thought the printed side was white but it's a smooth side, I was wrong. The printer smooth side is to be connected to the hot/black wire. Is that correct?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes, that's correct.

Smooth side = hot wire and gets spliced to black wire

Ribbed side = neutral wire and gets spliced to the white wire

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok I am gonna switch those and see if that works
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Connect the 1st light and see if that works correctly before splicing the other 2 lights. Let's get the 1st light working for now.

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

1) At the box with the 3 sets of Romex cables, were any of the white wires spliced to a black wire prior to de-installing the original light?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I switched the two, light comes on again. But dimmer is not working.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I am not positive but yes I believe there may have been one that was like that. But not sure which it was?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, it is possible that either the dimmer is fried or you have the light connected to an always "live" hot wire that is not being controlled by the dimmer switch. Thus the reason to have an AC voltmeter available to confirm.

How many and what are the wires colors that are spliced on the dimmer switch? 1 white and 1 black or 2 blacks

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Do I unscrew the switch plate from the wall to verify that?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes, you will need to remove the wall switch plate and then remove the 2 screws holding the dimmer switch to the box. Gently back the dimmer out from the box but do no disconnect any wires from it.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
It also seems like one of the pendant lights did not have the grounded wire attached. But the other two did. Is that possible?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, thanks.

1) At the ceiling box that has the 3 cables, one of the black wires is extending out from the dimmer switch and that is the black wire that will splice to the other 2 black wires in that box.

2) Each light should contain the bare copper ground wire.

3) No chance of getting either an AC voltmeter or a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester so you can confirm the ceiling box wires?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Unfortunately not. I looked and we don't have one
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, thanks.

1) I recommend obtaining either a meter or a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester to continue. Otherwise, it will have to be wired by trial & error and there is always a chance of not wiring it correctly and sparks may fly from a short circuit. Safety 1st:)

2) Perhaps you can borrow a meter from a neighbor or a friend tomorrow? If not, Home Depot or Lowe's sells a good AC voltmeter for $25 or less.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
in the box with three cables, should not all three white, all three black, and all three copper be spliced? You said one cable is the dimmer switch, that cable looks like the other two as it has all three wires in it, so I need to figure out which one that is and only splice the black wire but not the other two?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
In the dimmer switch, the wires coming out are two black and one green. One black is spliced with a white, the other is spliced with a black. The green (copper?) is spliced with the copper
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

1) In the ceiling box that has the 3 Romex cables, each cable contains 3 separate wires. One of those cables originates from the dimmer. Another cable extends out to the 2nd ceiling box and the 3rd cable is being used as the circuit feed.

2) OK, the white wire spliced to the dimmer black is being used as the hot conductor into the dimmer. Therefore, 1 of the ceiling box white wires is actually a hot wire and was spliced to a ceiling black wire and is not a neutral wire. Much safer using a voltmeter at the ceiling box to confirm which one.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
In all three boxes, there is one cable that has a piece of paper in it. This is also seen in the dimmer switch cable. Does this signify the dimmer cable?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Unfortunately, no. All of the white Romex cables contain paper inside. the paper on the other 2 cables were just neatly cut off and removed as that is why you can't see the paper that well.

Look at the ceiling box whites, does any one of them contain a piece of black tape or a portion of the white is painted black?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I gotcha. I guess I thought it meant something because quite a bit of the paper was sticking out of only one cable in each box. I don't see anything painted black on any of the white wires I don't think
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
But it looks like I can tell that one cable has the copper and white connected to another copper and white. The third cable does not have for sure indicators that makes it seem that the wires were connected previously. It is also longer than the other two cables. Dunno if that is any clue or not?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Also two cables Come out of one side of the box, and the other one comes out the opposite port.
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

When a white wire is used as a hot wire, per code it should have been re-identified with a piece of black electrical tape. Unfortunately many electricians forget to re-label the white when it is actually a hot wire.

One of the blacks in the ceiling is the always "live wire" which is why the light worked but not working from the dimmer. At the ceiling box with 3 cables, one of the individual white wires must have been spliced to black wire on another Romex cable.

How the cables are routed out from the box does not have any significance.

I suggest that we suspend the installation this evening and resume again tomorrow once you can obtain a meter if that is OK with you? I will be logged on the site tomorrow afternoon and evening. Your thoughts?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I guess I will just go with that since I can't do anything right now. I have never used this before, is there a certain way I am to get back in touch with you tomorrow?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

No problem, just reply back to me here at the same question like you have been doing this evening. I will be notified and will get back to you.

I will be here probably around mid afternoon tomorrow as well as in the evening. I will also revise the diagram now that we know how the dimmer is wired using the white wire.

Sound like plan?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok sounds good. Thank you Kevin, talk to you tomorrow
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, very good.

In the meantime, have a good evening and we'll catch up with you tomorrow.........Thanks...........Kevin:)

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Great thank you! :)
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes, this is how the original pendant lights were connected and how the replacement lights need to be connected.

Once you obtain a meter, it will only take a few minutes to confirm which of the 3 Romex cables is the always "live" pair. Then making all of the other splices is the easy part:)

Have a good evening Julie and we'll catch up with you tomorrow...........Thanks..........Kevin:)

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Hi Kevin, hope your day has gone well. I got a meter, I am still a little confused about how I will know which wire is the 'always live' wire? I touched all the wires with my hands the other night and didn't get shocked, but maybe that's because I thinking of this in a different way?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Good evening.

OK, glad that you have a meter. Are you familiar with using the meter and measuring voltage?

1) You will need to turn the circuit breaker to the OFF position and then spread apart the 3 black and 3 white wires so they don't short out. One of the Romex cables will be the always "live" pair. Turn the breaker back to the ON position. Locate the 1 Romex that is live and measure from the black and white within the same cable pair until you get 120 volts. Check all 3 cables. Once you locate the "live" cable, label it with some tape and mark it as H/N with a Sharpie marker. H/N = Hot/neutral.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
When you said measure all three until you get 120v, does that mean that I locate the Romax cable that has the wires that all make my voltage tester light up bright red?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

All 3 meaning, measure the black and white within each of the 3 separate cables. Each cable is a black/white pair. One of those cable pairs will be the hot and neutral.

Yes, place your 2 wire lead tester across a black & white of the same cable. Only 1 of the cables should turn red doing this.

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

If you are interested, I can walk you thru this on a telephone call as it will be much faster. However, there is an additional fee Just Answer charges for telephone consultation.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I am afraid of this little tester thing haha! But it says I just have to hold it next to the wire but don't have to touch it? Ok I am gonna turn the power back on and try to test them
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

DOH.......I hope you didn't purchase a non-contact tester? You need a tester or a voltmeter that has 2 wires or 2 probes on it.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Oh no... Yes I did. It's a voltage tester. I told them what I needed it for but I guess they misunderstood somehow :(
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
What happens if I splice the wrong black and white wire?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, we can try using it but that type of tester is not as accurate as a 2 wire type.

Out of the 3 black wires, were you able to locate 1 of the black wires that turns the tester to red?

If splicing the wrong wires, sparks will fly and the breaker will trip due to a short circuit.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I haven't tested it yet after reading your message. Won't they all turn red if I turn the power on? Btw, what do you think of what's on this cable? Does it look like this could have been the black marking? Pic attached
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
That is the only one that made consecutive beeps on red
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

If the 3 black wires are spread apart, hopefully only 1 of them will turn the tester red. The problem with non-contact testers is that they sense voltage by magnetism and you can have a false reading from another wire.

No the black should have been taped onto a white neutral wire and not to the white cable.

OK, label that cable as circuit or H/N

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, next go to the 2 other ceiling boxes and undo the splices in each box and spread the wires apart so nothing shorts out.

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Now go back to the box with the 3 cables. You already have 1 cable accounted for and that is the circuit cable with the hot and neutral. Label that cable.

Then take a pick as you have 2 remaining cables in that box. Pick 1 of the white wires in either of the 2 remaining cables and splice it to the black wire that you just tested and the tester turned red or started beeping. Look at the diagram I sent you last night.

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Now use the tester and find 1 of the 2 remaining black wires in the same ceiling box that makes the tester go red. Turn the switch ON/OFF a few times to confirm if this is the correct black wire. The tester should alternate by sensing voltage when you turn the switch ON/OFF

If no voltage sensing, remove the white splice and splice the other white wire to the 1st black wire you tested.

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

FYI....... here are the types of voltage tester that you should have purchased: Either one of these is a contact type of tester.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-110-220-VAC-Voltage-Tester-MS8900H/202520892

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Digital-Multimeter-MAS830B/202353293

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok, one black wire makes it beep a lot. The other does not
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Is that with the circuit black wire spliced to a white wire and another black wire is beeping that resides in a different cable? ?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
The circuit black wire in cable #1 is spliced with a white wire in cable #2. The black wire in cable #2 is now beeping. All three wires in cable three are not spliced with anything and none are beeping red
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, very good.

Can you turn the switch ON/OFF and see if that 2nd black wire (cable #2) beeps when the switch is ON and stops beeping when the switch is OFF?

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes, for now do not splice anything to cable #3

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
When it's off there is no beeping.
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, awesome... you are doing great:)

Now label the black wire in cable #2 as S/L..........S/L stands for switched loop. Splice the black wire in cable #2 to the smooth wire on the pendant.

Then splice the pendant ribbed wire to the white neutral wire on cable #1 (circuit white).

Now go to the switch and turn it ON/OFF and dim it. Let me know if the 1st pendant works?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok, did that, but the pendant is not turning on at all. Tried two light bulbs to make sure I didn't do something to the bulb. I wasn't supposed to splice the third cable at all or any of the grounding wires?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

That's correct. For now leave cable #3 alone and nothing spliced to it.

OK, reverse the splice on the black wire from cable #1 and splice it to the white on cable #3

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok will do. Leave the others spliced and connected to the pendant?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes, just reverse the circuit black from cable # ***** over to the white on cable #3.

Yes, leave the pendant spliced as is.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Alrighty. Did that. Turn on and try again?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes, flip the switch ON/OFF and dim

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Still nothing
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, either the switch is not working or the voltage sensor is picking up induction and sensing the wrong wire.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
It seems like originally one or both of the other black and whites were spliced with each other or the grounding wires were spliced together. Is that not possible? In my dumb mind I am wondering where the green(copper?) wire from the dimmer is connecting to if none of those wires are connected to each other?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Before when I couldn't get the dimmer switch to control the lights, at least when u turned the breaker on and off it turned the light on
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Let's try this:

Back the dimmer out from the wall box, but do not disconnect any wires. Use the voltage sensor on the 2 wires at the dimmer switch and see if it can sense voltage with the dimmer ON/OFF.

The ground wires are not required for the switch to work, they are only for safety purposes to prevent shock. The wall switch box green is spliced to a bare copper ground wire.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
When you say dimmer on/off do you want it all the way up or all the way down?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Both directions...ie... up & down

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok and do I do that with the circuits breaker on I would gather?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok. It's not sensing any voltage from the switch all the way on or all the way off. I did test the ceiling box cables again, cable#1 circuit black is still red, and cable #3 black (not spliced to anything) is red. Nothing from cable #2
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I did buy another switch in case we need it
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, assuming cable #1 at the ceiling box is the circuit feed, then 1 of the other 2 remaining whites is the same white wire that is spliced at the dimmer.

Did you reverse the white splice at the ceiling box and try the other cable white?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
As in, take cable #2 white and splice it to the ribbed pendant wire instead of cable one white? If that is what you are asking, no I did not. I left all spliced the same except for reversing the cable #1 black circuit to splice it with cable #3 white
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, that's fine.

This will work. Undo all of the splices at the 3 cable ceiling box. Then splice one cable at a time to the pendant. Black to smooth and white to ribbed. Turn the breaker ON/OFF to confirm that we have the correct circuit feed cable pair. One of the cable pair's will turn the pendant ON as we will by-pass the switch.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
ok should I start with the circuit cable?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes.

If that does not work, then move on to the next cable and so forth. One of them will work.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Got it
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Cool:)

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok. Cable #1 black and white connected turns the light on. Do I need to do the other two?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Yes, just to make sure.

Swing the pendant splices over to the 2 remaining cables. Neither of them should light the pendant.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok neither of the other two cables light the pendant
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

OK, so it is confirmed that cable #1 is indeed the circuit feed.

Based on the previous splices when we 1st started this evening, my conclusion is that the switch is defective. We identified the correct cable feed, we know the breaker works and we know the light works when the switch is by-passed.

Would it be possible if you can obtain one of the other testers I showed in my previous Home Depot link and we can finish this tomorrow? It is 2:00 am and I need to get some sleep and awake at 7:00am. I'm on Central Time here in the Chicago area.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I hear you, I am on central time over here in Kansas City. I can keep trying for a little bit. I bought a new switch just in case this one is no longer working. I could hook that up and try them again
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I will let you know how it goes so u can see tomorrow
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Sure, if you want to try swapping out the switch, I recommend that. Would still be good if you can obtain one of the other testers, preferably the volt meter.

OK, sounds like a game plan. I will be logged on here tomorrow. So just reply back then and we can continue.

Thanks............Kevin:)

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok, thank you Kevin
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

No problem. Talk atcha tomorrow:)

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Well. I got the first light to work. Wasn't sure what I needed to do with the other wires. BUT, when hooked up the other two lights and turned on the power, none of them will turn on now. Ugh
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I replaced the switch and did the original configuration of cable#1 circuit black to cable #2 white, cable #1 white neutral spliced to ribbed pedant, cable #2 black to smooth pendant. All was good. It was on and switch controlled dimming. But don't know what happened after that. Seems it shorted out again when I hooked up the other two lights because now my tester isn't reading a surge in the switch cable wires when I pulled it out from the wall
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Hey Julie......good afternoon.

1) I assume that you got the 1st light working at the box with the 3 separate cables and the other downstream lights were not connected, is that correct?

Switch was able to turn ON/OFF and dim OK? with just the (1) one light?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Hi Kevin :)
Yes that's correct. I would turn on/off and was dimmable. Then I moved forward to connect the other two cable boxes to the pendants. But when I turned on the breaker, none of all three lights worked. And no red detection by my tester when testing the switch wires
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Thanks for the replies.

1) Sounds like the circuit breaker has tripped once the 2 other downstream pendants were connected? Have you reset the breaker? Does it continue to trip?

2) If the 1st pendant at the box with the 3 cables was working correctly, then there must be an incorrect wiring connection for the 2 other downstream pendants.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I turned all circuits off and on after I found out none of them were working. All other power to things works just not to the dimmer switch. I am not sure, but maybe the only thing that could have been wired incorrectly I guess would be in box 2? Because box three only has one black one white one ground. Box two has two of each. And what was supposed to happen with the remaining black and white wires and ground wires in box one after the correct connection was made?
Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

1) Take a look at the wiring diagram I sent you the other night. Here is the layout of the diagram:

A) At the box with 3 Romex cables: 1 cable is for the hot circuit feed. 2nd cable goes to the dimmer switch. 3rd cable extends from this ceiling box to the middle pendant box.

B) The middle pendant box gets it's power from one of the Romex cables that extend from the box with 3 cables. The middle pendant box has 2 Romex cables....ie........1 cable from the 3 cable box and a 2nd cable to send power down to the last pendant box.

C) The last pendant box only requires 1 Romex cable since this is the last light in the chain.

All 3 pendant lights are wired in parallel and connected to the dimmer switch.

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

The black wire coming from the cable in the middle box, gets spliced to the same black wire as the black wire from the dimmer switch and the same smooth wire from the 1st pendant.

The white neutral coming from the cable in the middle box, gets spliced to the white neutral wire that originated from the circuit feed cable and the same ribbed wire neutral wire that you spliced the 1st pendant to. This will now provide power to the middle box.

At the middle box, splice the 2 blacks and 1 smooth together. Splice the 2 whites and the 1 ribbed together. Splice all of the bare copper grounds together.

At the last box, splice the black to the smooth and the white to the ribbed.

At all 3 pendant boxes, splice the pendant ground wire to all of the Romex bare copper grounds.

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

Since the 1st pendant light and the dimmer worked correctly and then when connecting the middle and last pendant light caused all 3 lights not to work, this suggests incorrect wiring at the circuit feed ceiling box when attempting to connect the middle pendant light to the 3 cable box.

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Electrician: Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor replied 1 year ago

If you have any additional questions, just let me know and I’ll be glad to answer them for you.

Otherwise, don’t forget to rate me before you log Off.

Thanks...............Kevin:)

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Kevin
Kevin, Licensed Electrical Contractor
Category: Electrical
Satisfied Customers: 3,791
3,791 Satisfied Customers
Experience: 31 years Licensed Electrical Contractor in Illinois, Adjunct College Electrical Instructor, Former Electrical Inspector, Diploma: Digital Electronics, FCC Technician License

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Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.

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