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Hello. Welcome to Just Answer. I think you'll like how simple the remedy for this problem is most likely to be.
On the outlets that are half controlled by the switch, go to each one and break off the little tab between the screws on the gold screw side of the outlets.
Thank you for the additional information. I know it's not convenient, but if you could remove the 4 switched outlets from their boxes, while keeping all wires connected to them, and then post photos of each here (showing all wires), that would help me tremendously in answering your question.
Thank you for posting the photos. How many wires are in the switch box? Specifically, how is the switch wired? Are there multiple wires at either terminal on the switch?
Did you at any time have the red wire nut off of the wires, and the wires separated?
Do either of the unswitched outlets have a red wire on one gold terminal screw, and a black wire on the other gold terminal screw?
Do the unswitched outlets only have black wires on the gold terminal screws?
Does that red wire splice to other red wires in the 6th outlet box? If so, you may somehow have constant hot on reds AND blacks at the switched outlets.
I appreciate you posting the photos, especially the closeups. They are very helpful.
Have you noticed any black to red splices in any of the outlet boxes?
Is one of the reds disconnected in that photo... the one that is close to the white wires?
It sounds like when you replaced the outlets, you made sure the new ones got reconnected exactly as the old ones were, and you broke off the appropriate tabs between screws. Do you mind posting closeup photos of the rest of the outlet boxes? Maybe something obvious will jump out at me.
I only got closeups of 2 of them. Unfortunately, with the panoramic photo, I can't see the wires well enough.
Thank you for your patience and persistence. I'll look them over now.
That's good. We may need it. I'm opening all photos of outlets in separate tabs, and putting them in order from 1 to 6.
On outlet 3, are both black wires referenced to the same terminal, with red being on the terminal above them?
Also, I'm sure you've checked multiple times, but are the tabs broken off between gold screws on ALL outlets that are supposed to respond to the switch?
Thank you, ***** *****
On outlet 6, it looks like the black and red wires are very close together. So much so, that the red appears that it could be touching the flat metal plate between the black wire and the plastic body of the side of the outlet.
If you take the red wire off of the switch, do all red wires at the outlets lose power?
My apologies for the delay. I had to take a customer phone call. I'll be right back with you.
OK, sorry about that. I wasn't expecting that.
I'm looking over your last few replies now.
To answer one of the last questions you posted, you can test for power on red wires by touching one probe to the white or ground, and the other probe to the red.
If you try to push the meter probes into the slots on an outlet that is dangling by wire, the outlet will try to move on you, and that gets kind of risky.
I'm not sure it will matter that you can't get the meter probe onto the red wires that are poked into the holes on the back, because hopefully, those red wires won't have any power on them anyway. If any that you can touch do turn out to have power when red is removed from the switch, please let me know.
Hmm, how strange. At this point, you may have to disconnect all reds, so you can find the one that is live.
Yes, that's correct. If I were wiring it, I would make black the constantly live half, and the red would control the switched half. I think most electricians would wire it that way.
That is with them off of the outlets, and not connected to anything?
And the wall switch is off, or the red wire is disconnected from the wall switch?
Do each of those two boxes (5 and 6) have 2 red wires?
I still have photos of outlets 1 - 6 open in separate tabs. 5 and 6 appear to have two red wires each.
What happens if you individually cap the constantly live red wires at outlets 5 and 6, and then put all other wiring back together?
You found a constantly live red at outlet 5, and another at outlet 6. Please place a wire nut on the end of each of these wires, to cap them off from touching any other wires. Then, put all other wiring back together, and test operation of the wall switch at switched outlets.
Use the yellow wire nuts if you have 2 of them.
See if the top half responds properly to the wall switch.
I would add the capped red back to the top half of outlet 6 for not. Don't add any other wires back in. Then test operation of other outlets, relative to switch position. I need to step away to take my daughter's friend home. I should be back in about 45 minutes or so. Can I look for your reply then?
I apologize for the delay. Unfortunately, at this point I believe we've exhausted any possibilities I can come up with for a cause for the issue. That being the case, I'll opt out of the question, and open it up for other experts to step in.
Do you have the line/ load mixed up looks like a GFCI i may be wrong (per your picture)
Hi, I'm Mike G and I looked at your pictures. The one thing that can lose a connection and usually does are the pushbavk connections. Multiple wires should be connected in a wirenut with a jumper to the screw terminal. By doing it that way you eliminate the cause of most failures and don't have the circuit dependant on device connections. The general appearance of the connection is at best poor. Wires are stripped to long, wires are terminated going the wrong way under the screws,they should be clockwise and the pushbacks have bare wire exposed. Correct the connections and let me know if things work again.
Very good. Let me know how it goes