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Juan Crespo
Juan Crespo, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 1526
Experience:  A.S.E. Master Technician, Advanced Level, Emissions - Asian, Domestic, & European
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1999 dakota, it started with dying, but restarted, went

Customer Question

hey. 1999 dakota
JA: Are you fixing your Dakota yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: it started with dying, but restarted
JA: Will the headlights turn on? Is the battery fully charged?
Customer: went rapidly to start and very rough idle then die
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: not that can be ascertained by the headlights question
Submitted: 8 months ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

Hi Im David is there a check engine light on before it stalls out?

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
nope...and no pending codes
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

you have 2 open requests for the same issue. please close on out.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
did you get the full text of my question?
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

yes i did. and for there not to be a check engine light is pretty unusual. souns like you have a fuel issue.

Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

do you have a fuel pressure gauge or a scan tool that reads live data?

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
That was my first thought, and since it's a fifteen year old truck anyway a new fuel pump can't hurt. replaced that, no help
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
fuel filter is integral to the pump so that's new as well
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

thats not what i was getting at. theres more to fuel systems than just the pump

Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

have you checked to see if the injectors are firing?

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
no...wouldn't that show on the diagnostic?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
if not how do I check
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

it should. as a misfire sure.

Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

a fuel pressure test at the rail is what is needed.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
the first day, when it would idle until it got warm, it had no codes
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
fuel pressure test...okay...I'll do that
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

do you have a code reader?

Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

maybe check for a history of fault codes.

Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

do you need the specs for fuel pressure?

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
yeah...no codes in history either, but the battery was disconnected for a while
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I have the specs, just have to go get a guage so was hoping for some other things to consider
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

lets do one thing at a time. ok? i have more ammunition, if the pressure is good.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
side issue...my browse I'm up to ten questions...if those are twenty bucks apiece you're fired.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
okay, I'll check pressure...how do I get back to you?
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

right here my friend

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
fair enough...might be tomorrow by the time I get that checked
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

not a problem

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Don't give up on me...I got the pressure test rig, but I'm in a rain delay. Truck's outside and I'm not desperate to work on it enough to go out in this.
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

i wont. ill be here

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Fuel pressure test done...it settled at 44, which is right in spec. I was kinda surprised that it took a few seconds to build up to it...and coincidentally the motor died right about the time it settled in. I don't know if the delay was just from the lines to the gauge pressing up though. After it died I started it back up and it was steady at 44...and died even quicker.Then I was going to do resistance checks on the injectors, but the weather closed back in. Is that next or do you have some other advice?
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

check the resistance of the injectors yes. but we also need to make sure they are firing.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I keep thinking that if they aren't there should be an error code, but I'll bite...how should I check that?Firing on time would be nice to verify too, but I really have no idea how to do that.
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

with a noid light. but if they werent firing you would have misfire codes.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Okay, so does not having misfire codes mean that I should just move on to something else? I mean, if the resistance is bad or they aren't firing for some reason that should show up as an error code, so is checking resistances really going to tell us anything?.
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

no. it wont so we need to move on

Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

and you are positive there are no fault codes?

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I just hooked up the scanner and checked again...it says no codes. I tried to set it on view data and see what I could see during the brief run to dying, but when I started the truck the tool went to "Link Error."
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

ok.

Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

unplug the maf and try to start

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I don't have a MAF sensor. I have a MAP sensor. Unplugged that and got no kick at all...and when I plugged it back in I still get no kick at all.
Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

ok. i knew that. just been working on too many cars.

Expert:  david craig replied 8 months ago.

im going to open this up to others. i have nothing left. good luck my friend. dont reply back or it will take it off the board.

Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 8 months ago.

Hi there.

Do you still need help with this issue? If so, will the engine stay running if you give it gas?

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I do and no it won't.it went from stalling on the way home then starting and running for a couple minutes (which was cool because I got it home in three start die coast cycles) to the next day in the driveway it would start and then die pretty quickly (and immediately if put in gear)...I replaced the fuel pump (old truck, filter integral to the pump assembly, seemed like a good thing to do even if it wasn't the problem) and problem remained, and grew into even during the very short run it would be really rough idle with a couple near deaths before it finally died...all this with no codes...so I got a gauge and checked fuel pressure, that's okay...tried disconnecting the MAP sensor...turned with no fire at all...then when reconnected it STILL turns with no fire at all. unless someone suggests something pretty quick I'm coming down to the engine control module...if it's shorted something internally I could imagine the short burning out more and more stuff every run so the problem gets worse and worse like this...and if it is malfunctioning it might not be able to put out an error code...does that make sense?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Hi, by the way, and thanks for the time
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 8 months ago.

I've seen it where the crank sensor starts failing and won't trigger any codes. I recommend looking at crank sensor signal if you have access to a scan tool capable of reading sensor data. If no scan tool, then I'd still recommend replacing the crank sensor before replacing the engine control module. Please click here for a good article on how to check it with just a multimeter.

Please let me know what you find.

Best Regards.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I'll check that...thanks for the tip. It will probably be Monday at least...tomorrow is full. Hopefully Monday won't get rained out.
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 8 months ago.

Sounds good. Please let me know what you find.

Best Regards.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Got rained out today. Hopefully tomorrow.
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 8 months ago.
OK
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
It finally dried up enough for slithering around under the truck...so I could follow the wiring to the connector that I could reach from under the hood. I got as far as verifying that the five volt supply is present, but I didn't have the right pins to backprobe that connector. By the time I got those together the rain had closed back in.I'll keep pressing on this crank position sensor and eventually be able to say good or bad. Once I have this backprobe rig and I'm set up for this slow turn test, should I check the output of the cam position sensor while I'm at it?