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Ask Don 'Mo Lurch' Your Own Que...
Don 'Mo Lurch'
Don 'Mo Lurch', Aftermarket & Factory Electronics
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 20959
Experience:  Cert. Dodge & Chrysler Warnty, Heavy Line Mech, Mobile Electronics. Sales, Installation & Repair for 30 years
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After the front parking brake cable broke I replaced it. The

Customer Question

After the front parking brake cable broke I replaced it. The parking brake assembly's coild spring had come off, so I put it back on, but the parking brake barely caused any friction on the rear drum when fully depressed. In addition, the coiled spring was so large in diameter it hit the release lever arm. So I decided to make the coil spring go one more revolution before being attached. With quite a bit of work I finally accomplished that. But now the front parking brake cable won't reach through the holes to the brake equalizer, no matter how hard I pull on the cable or how much I try to manually rotate the disk in the parking brake assembly that the cable inserts into.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Don 'Mo Lurch' replied 1 year ago.

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sorry for the delay............
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Greetings...... “Hi, I’m Don (aka MOLurch) and I look forward to helping you!”
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You have to set the Automatic Adjuster, before you install the New Cable

Manual Lockout Of Auto Adjuster

  1. Position the park brake pedal in its released (upward most) position.
  2. From underneath the vehicle, have a helper grasp the exposed section of the front park brake cable and pull downward until all free movement is removed from the cable.
  3. Insert a 3/16 inch drill bit into the clock spring and position against park brake pedal arm.

Engaging Automatic Self Adjuster

  1. Ensure all the park brake cables are properly installed, clipped as required and correctly connected.
  2. Using pliers, firmly grasp the park brake lever locking pin (drill bit).
  3. Quickly remove the drill bit from the park brake pedal mechanism. This will allow the park brake pedal mechanism to correctly adjust the park brake cables.
  4. Apply and release park brake pedal 1 time, this will seat the park brake cables.

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Expert:  Don 'Mo Lurch' replied 1 year ago.

Here is Cable procedures

INSTALLATION

1.Pass parking brake cable assembly through hole in floor pan from the inside of the vehicle.
2.Pass cable strand button through the hole in the pedal assembly bracket.
3.Install cable retainer onto the parking brake cable and then install cable retainer into pedal assembly bracket.
4.Install the end of the parking brake cable into the retainer previously installed into the parking brake pedal bracket.
5.Install cable strand button into the clevis on the parking brake pedal mechanism.
6.Install the front parking brake cable floor pan seal into hole in floor pan. Seal is to be installed so the flange on the seal is flush with the floor pan. Fold carpeting back down on floor.
7.Raise vehicle.
8.Insert brake cable and housing into body outrigger bracket making certain that housing retainer fingers lock the housing firmly into place.
9.Assemble the parking brake cables onto the parking brake cable equalizer.
10.Release the automatic adjuster mechanism on the parking brake pedal assembly.
11.Lower vehicle and apply the parking brake pedal 1 time, this will seat the parking brake cables.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi, I have those directions, actually, in the service manual I have. I have tried direction #3 "Insert a 3/16 inch drill bit into the clock spring and position against park brake pedal arm," but I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly. The only thing I can think that that means is to put the bit in the middle of the coil so that the friction keeps it from rotating, and that the positioning against the pedal arm is to keep the whole thing from spinning. The problem that I'm having is that I NEED the whole thing to spin in order for the cable to reach the brake equalizer.
Expert:  Don 'Mo Lurch' replied 1 year ago.

You need to post what you have & done so we don't get confused on the problem
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You need to disconnect cable from the Rear connection
THEN:

Position the park brake pedal in its released (upward most) position.
From underneath the vehicle, have a helper grasp the exposed section of the front park brake cable and pull downward until all free movement is removed from the cable.
This pulls the pulley on the E-Brake
Insert a 3/16 inch drill bit into the clock spring and position against park brake pedal arm.
This keeps the pulley from turning
THEN:

Ensure all the park brake cables are properly installed, clipped as required and correctly connected.
Using pliers, firmly grasp the park brake lever locking pin (drill bit).
Quickly remove the drill bit from the park brake pedal mechanism. This will allow the park brake pedal mechanism to correctly adjust the park brake cables.
Apply and release park brake pedal 1 time, this will seat the park brake cables.

IF you would have done the first steps, when you were replacing the Cable, then it should have worked

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The front cable is disconnected from the rear connection (the brake equalizer). In fact, the problem is exactly that the cable cannot reach the brake equalizer. So when we perform this: "From underneath the vehicle, have a helper grasp the exposed section of the front park brake cable and pull downward until all free movement is removed from the cable," the cable is still not able to reach the brake equalizer because the pulley has not rotated far enough. In addition, I'm still not sure what "Insert a 3/16 inch drill bit into the clock spring and position against park brake pedal arm" means. The clock spring is the one on the pulley, right? There is also a coiled spring behind the pulley with 2 arms sticking perpendicular to it--this spring stops the pedal from moving when the pedal is fully depressed.
Expert:  Don 'Mo Lurch' replied 1 year ago.

carefully inspect the pulley (clock spring), there should be a hole in the pulley to insert the drill bit or pin
Could be you do not have it rotated far enough, to far or it does not move enough, which means the Parking Brake Pedal Mechanism is bad

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I had already searched, but I couldn't find any holes that a 3/16 drill bit would fit into. There is one hole, and the metal is bent inward to create a flange. I tried sticking the 3/16 bit in there and it would sort of hold by friction, but not very well. The coil spring doesn't hold a very circular shape, so the friction varies as well. In order to get a better look at it all I took off the assembly altogether and took 2 pictures for you to see what I'm looking at.You'll notice that the coil spring hits the release lever arm slightly. This is the original condition that I found the assembly in, and the cable would reach the brake equalizer, and the only problem was that it would not provide but the slightest braking friction even with the pedal fully depressed.So I tried rotating the spring around one more time before attaching the cable to the assembly. This removed the problem of the coil hitting the release lever, and I was hoping this would provide more tension. However, the tension seems to have been too much because I wasn't able to pull the cable enough to get it to reach the back cables.I'm guessing the trick here lies with the 3/16 drill bit and the manual lockout of the Auto Adjuster, particularly step 3, "(3) Insert a 3/16 inch drill bit into the clock spring and position against park brake pedal arm." I'm not able to understand what this step means.

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