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Mike S.
Mike S., ASE Certified Technician
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I have significant battery drain from two fuses in my 2001

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I have significant battery drain from two fuses in my 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport 3.3 L -- they are the HZD LP and the IOD. Drawing over 6 amps when at rest
Any idea how to fix this?

Yeah. Do you have the wiring diagrams to those 2 circuits? I assume you do have an ammeter. How was you hooking it up?

The wiring diagrams I have, have all of the fuses numbered. Are there any numbers on those 2 fuses?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The HZD LP was a 20A fuse, and the IOD fuse was 15A. Are you looking for any numbers beyond that?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I removed the negative connector from the battery. Then I connected the positive ampmeter connector to that. The negative ampmeter connector went straight to the negative battery anode. Hope that makes sense.

Yes, the number of the fuse itself.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Here are pictures of the fuses close up, and the fuse-box map from the car.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The yellow 20 amp fuse looks like it says 20500.
The blue 15 amp fuse looks like it says 2580M or 2680M

Sorry, I didn't mean any numbers on the fuse, I meant on the fuse location.

Here is what I am talking about, it only shows fuse numbers.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Mike,I appreciate your clarification and the fuse map, but the correlation to what I see in my car's physical fuse box and what I see on the fuse map make very little sense. So sorry I am so little help here! I read that the HZD LP controls the clock and the turn signals. The IOD controls a few functions while the engine is off, and this eventually goes to sleep after 15-30 minutes. Does that direct you any? I can only guess as to which fuse number is ***** I see no reference to HZD or IOD on the map.Thanks, Reid

I would assume the HZD LP feeds the hazard lamps but you said nothing of that.

If the IOD goes to sleep, ignore that if after it goes to sleep there is no more drain especially with the other HZD LP fuse out if the drain is lower than 50mA. is it?

Let me see if I can get a different wiring diagram or something. Do you still have your owners manual?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
When I originally tested and found 6 amps of drain, 4 amps were from the HZD LP fuse and 2 amps were from the IOD fuse. I may not have waited until it was fully asleep, so the IOD worries me less. I do still have my owner's manual.Any info I gave you about the HZD LP fuse was from online research, and may not be absolutely accurate. :-)Again, thanks for trying to help me!

When you look up the fuse chart in the owners manual are the fuses named like you said or are they numbered, like fuse #1 and fuse #2 and so on?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hey Mike,My owner's manual did not contain a fuse chart. It made no reference to fuses. :-) That said, I found the map below online. If it is accurate, the HZD LP fuse is #24 and the IOD is fuse #14. Thanks!

Fuse 24 was in that wiring diagram I already gave you. It feeds the body control module, the instrument cluster and the message center. So, with the iod fuse out wait for the modules to go to sleep after you hook up the ammeter either at the battery cable that is disconnected or hook that cable up and place the ammeter in the #24 fuse socket, then unhook each of those items I just mentioned one at a time and see when the ammeter drops to below 50 mA.

Here are the other 2 power distribution wiring diagrams, that fuse #14 is on the second page.

Customer: replied 1 year ago. back to your original map, is it also indicating in the bottom row, second from the left, that Fuse 24 controls the antilock brake system? If so, my ABS light keeps coming on and going off at random times. Has been for about a year. Do you think that is coincidental? I will try your advice above in the meantime. Thanks!

Yes, that abs light is probably related t this problem.

Let me know as soon as you get the battery drain ammeter readings on that fuse #24, with the iod fuse out and wait for the modules to go to sleep. Hook up the ammeter either at the battery cable that is disconnected or hook that cable up and place the ammeter in the #24 fuse socket, then unhook each of those items I just mentioned one at a time and see when the ammeter drops to below 50 mA.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hey Mike,Yesterday, I did the tests you prescribed. In doing so, I discovered that I have been giving you a bunch of wrong info before, and I am very sorry. So...if you are willing, please read what I discovered below, and help me know what to do from here.1. There were 2 missing fuses in my Fuse Box - both on the far right of my attached Fuse Map picture:
- 40A RG HDLP Washer (just added yesterday, see the blue-headed 40A fuse)
- RG Headlamp Washer Relay 40A (still missing, not sure what to buy)2. See attached photo of my amp meter. This whole time, I have been setting the amp meter to Battery Load Test 12V (in green on the left side of the dial). Those are the numbers I have been giving you to this point. :-(I now have the amp meter turned to the position shown in the attached picture, which gives me a DC reading in MA. The MA reading is only about 0.1 now. To do the reading, I waited for the car systems to go to sleep (at least 30 minutes after the car had been run). I detached the negative battery connection, and connected the positive amp meter connector to that. The negative amp meter connector went straight to the negative battery anode.3. Per your instructions, I then removed the IOD fuse, keeping the amp meter connections as they were. The reading kept showing 0.1 MA. I removed the 20A HZD LP fuse and put the negative amp meter connector in that slot. Still 0.1 MA. Seeing that the reading were so low, I did not repeat the test for any other fuses.Based on this latest info, where would you go from here? Again, the original issues are:
a. My battery loses its cranking power after sitting for a few days.
b. My ABS light pops on every now and then, but fix-it shops never see any issue when they hook up their Check Engine meter. Please note that I have never been able to get my car to a fix-it shop while the ABS light was still on. It always goes back off by the time I get there. Another note: Advanced Auto Parts, from which I got my battery 2 months ago, did a recent test and showed that my battery was in good working order.Hope this finally gives you an accurate picture. :-) I look forward to hearing from you.Reid

I don't see no picture of any ammeter.

Are you sure it's reading 0.1 mA and not 0.1 amps cause 0.1 amps is 100 mA and that is too much. If it is 0.1 mA, then you are ok.

Speaking of advance auto, they can scan the abs codes in memory and bring them back to read what they were. The abs light doesn't have to be on.

I found a diagram that does match. I laid them down side by side, see for yourself. Now we know which are which.

So, the IOD fuse is fuse #14.

The 20A HZD LP fuse is fuse #24.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will check with my amp meter again, since my car has been off for 24 hours. Procedurally, I will detach the negative battery connection, and connect the positive amp meter connector to that. The negative amp meter connector will go straight to the negative battery anode. Is this correct?It appears that the "missing" fuses I listed were only spares, per the new info you sent. Very helpful.I reattached my amp meter picture to this note.

If that is where you had the dial set and you read 0.10 than that is good, ok, no excessive battery drain.

How long does it take for the battery to go dead enough that it will not crank the engine over?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It had gotten pretty consistent that when my car sat for the weekend that I would need a jump start on Monday morning.

Ok, you have a camera, then show me the reading of the draw as it actually looks when it's hooked up.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
See attached pictures.

Sorry, I had to take a nap, probably got up too early.

Anyhow, I thought you said before the reading was 0.1 mA. The reading you just showed me isn't 0.1 mA, it's 0.01 mA. That's even lower than before. That should not drain the battery down over a weekend or even an entire year.

I believe you must be confusing a battery drain with something else wrong. You have a dc voltmeter. The nest time it sits and won't crank, check the battery voltage. If it's 12 volts, it's not a drain on the battery. Then you might have a loose connection going to or from the starter.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, how would I check the connection between the battery and the starter?

Sorry, I didn't see you replied.

Hook up the voltmeter to the battery, red (positive) lead to the positive battery post and black (negative) lead to the negative post, make sure it reads at least12 volts, then turn the key to start and read the meter while the key is on start. It should remain over 9.6 volts. Then to check the connections between the battery positive post and the starter move the voltmeter to the very next connection and turn the key to start again and read the voltmeter. It should e within 0.2 volts of what the reading was at the battery with the key on start. Of course you will be needing to wait until this problem of the starter not cranking over in order to test and find the problem. Then move the positive test lead to the very next connection and check again. Each time you move to the very next connection, keep in mind it means the immediate next connection, so you might have 3 tests before even leaving the battery and that doesn't include the tests on the negative battery cable. For instance, the first test should be on the actual positive battery post itself, then the second test on the positive battery post cable end, then the third test touching the copper strands of cable at the positive battery post, if they are visible. Moving on, say you get to a connection. You would first test the copper wire strands, if they are showing, then the wire or cable end, and then the nut or bolt that holds it tight, then move onto testing the copper wire strands on the cable or wire coming off of that connection. Until you get down to the starter itself and test there on the bolt itself. Each connection should not be more than a 0.2 volt difference then what the voltmeter read across the battery when the key was on start. So, at an average of let's say 5 or 6 possible connections being in that positive battery cable, no more than 0.2 volts loss on each would total 1 to 1.2 volts total loss and I believe the spec is probably lower and closer to 0.1 volts. So, at the starter you should have not less than .6 volts then what you had at the battery. You might as well just start right there and test at the starter with the key on start the next time it acts up and if it's ok there, then there is really no need in testing all of them different connections, but if it is low, then at least you know how and what to test. So, if it is ok, then you should move onto testing the negative side, or the negative battery cable. Just place the positive test lead back on the battery and this time move the negative test lead one connection at a time toward ground and the same results as the positive side apply.

When and if you find the spot where the voltage really drops, then from that spot back to the last spot you just tested is bad and if it's a connection clean and re-tighten it. If it's a wire or cable, replace it. If the starter solenoid doesn't even make a sound, then of course you will have to test that circuit as well.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will test this when my brain has more cranking power. :-) Thanks and good night, sir.

You are welcome.

Mike S. and 3 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Simply wanted to say a long overdue thank you for helping on this 2015 issue. I totally forgot to rate you back then, but I gave you 5 stars just now. Sorry for the delay. Blessing to you!

Wow, thanks. That is the oldest rating I have ever got, cool!

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