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sprinkles08
sprinkles08, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep master tech
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 23125
Experience:  ASE Master and Advanced Certified, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
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Dodgerrench I am reading an old post of yours and it seems

Customer Question

Hi Dodgerrench
I am reading an old post of yours and it seems to be applying to my current situation. I completely rebuilt a 93 magnum 360 to put in my dakota. I have now replaced everything in the valve train and I have a ticking that sounds like all the lifters are clicking. Through a lot of assembly and disassembly i have been trying to pin down the location. i checked my pushrod length, I checked proper lash, I even replaced the rockers and changed them to a GM style roller rocker. Well, it still hasn't fixed the problem. The only thing I could think of is maybe with the higher lift cam and stiffer valve spring combination, maybe I am having lifter collapse. the other thing I thought i would check is to make sure the lifters aren't hitting the lifter guilds now that i have higher lift, but i have removed the intake and cranked over the engine and there doesn't seem to be any mechanical noise. I too was under the understanding that there wasn't any timing adjustment to these engin
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 2 years ago.
Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!
You mentioned checking valve lash but there should be no lash. The rockers bolt straight down and the lifters automatically adjust lash. When you had the correct rockers in the engine where they simply torqued down?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
that is correct. there isn't any lash by old flat tappet standards, but according to my factory service manual, when installing your rockers, you have to make sure you check the amount that the hydraulic lifter compresses. there is a spec on that and they are calling this the "lash". when i reinstalled the rocker arms, i made sure that the pushrods were depressing the lifters in this sweet spot, and everything check out. this is important because it tells me that there isn't a problem with the pushrod length.
p.s. it doensn't appear on my screen to have the entire question for you from the first post. Did you receive the entire question?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 2 years ago.
I don't have a way of knowing if there was more to the question than is shown on the page. If you don't see the entire post and there are missing details let me know.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
the question was: Is it possible that because i do not have the crankshaft and camshaft properly synced to each other, that I am getting a clicking from on top of each cylinder? with a piece of tubing I have pinpointed the sound to the intersection of the intake and the head. the sound is not in the valve cover. It sounded mechanical to me and the only things i could think of were the lifters hitting the guides, or lifters collapsing, but maybe it is preignition? i have gone through everything mechanically and they all seem to check. I did not however turn the distributor cap for any kind of syncing, because i was under the understanding that the computer did this on it's own. Sound like i am heading in the right direction?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 2 years ago.
Distributor sync has to be set manually but that won't cause a mechanical engine noise. Are you actually hearing spark knock on acceleration or mechanical engine noise?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
what I hear seems mechanical. but when I remove the intake and crank it over, I can not recreate the sound. I may try taking out the spark plugs and see if that might be enough to speed up the rpms in order to get the clicking to happen. It doesn't sound like an out of sync issue to you then?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 2 years ago.
Distributor sync won't cause a mechanical engine noise.
When you say cam and crank properly synced together are you referring to cam timing? If cam timing is incorrect then valves can hit the pistons.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
It idles okay and doesn't have a slapping metal sound. furthermore I have had the heads off and the pistons look brand new without any marking whatsoever, so i don't think that is the issue. It has some lag when i give it fuel and when I drive it, it doesn't always want to stay running when shifting between gears. and i haven't gotten on the gas really hard, but the power doesn't seem to be there. how is the best way to check the cam/crank sync?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 2 years ago.
Do you have access to an actual scan tool?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I can go to o'reilly and use one of their loaners. Are you thinking I might be throwing a code?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
it is my understanding that these older truck didn't do much as far as diagnostic is concerned.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 2 years ago.
A scan tool is best used to set sync. A digital voltmeter can get it close but a scan tool would be quickest and most accurate. I'm not sure O Rielly will have what you need but you can try.