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Dodgerench, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 3404
Experience:  30+ years Dodge/Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
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I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan that is having the problems:The

Customer Question

I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan that is having the problems:
The problem first starts to show with the instrument gauges going crazy when you start the car. After this happens, the car will cut off when
driving within a day or three days. All power is lost to the entire vehicle. Sometime if I wait 30 seconds, it will start again.
I have removed the BMC fuse, waited 30 seconds and then put it back in. This will work initially, but after a few times doing this, this approach will not
work anymore.
I have taken it into the dealer twice. The first time they said that it was the battery shorting out. That didn’t make sense to me
since the battery was still putting out 12V. They put a new battery in and the problem went away for 3000 miles.
When the problem returned, I took it to the dealer and they said that the battery was severely discharged. They charged it up and the problem went away
for 1500 miles. Now the problem has returned. I can tell that the battery is discharged because the overhead lights are very dim if you turn them on.
It appears that there might be two things going on.
1 - The instrument panel going crazy and the engine shutting off
2 - The battery being caused to severely discharge.
What could be causing the battery to discharge so quickly? What short or switch could be drawing that much power to discharge it?
Have you had this problem before and if so, what did you do to fix it?
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 2 years ago.
Goood morning, my name is Ed. Welcome to JustAnswer!. Solder up the cables in the crimp connection to the rear of the positive battery clamp. You'll find three cables that come together at that point, squeezed by a high-pressure metal band crimp that may appear pristine, but they do lost continuity to one another, causing a host of problems. One cable is your alternator output source, the means by which the alternator dumps its power back into the vehicle electrical system and the battery. Another is the starter positive cable and last is the B+ feed that goes to the IPM (fuse and relay panel) under the hood, which is where the entire vehicle is powered up. Losing electrical continuity between the charging system output and the B+ cable will result in a slowly dying battery. Losing contact between the alternator output and the battery will cause your lights to flicker and the gauges to go wild, as well as possible stalling and having no power to ANYTHING the next time you try to start the engine. The first one of these problems I chased down took literally months to show itself for diagnosis, but I had suspected this crimp all along because it seemed to be the only place where all customer complaints could originate. I loaded and voltage drop tested this crimp over and over with no success, but the incidence of occurrence became greater and eventually, hoop, there it was. Since then, I've learned to treat the crimp with a hi-temp heat gun to speed the process, but it's always worth soldering up even if it doesn't pan out. I'll include a highlighted picture of the area in question, on a crimp that was equally clean and visually perfect as the one I fixed the first time. To repair, remove your battery and take the clamp off the end of the cable (a nut holds them together. Clean the crimp well, then heat it with a torch until rosin core solder will flow into the joint. Once you have solder dripping out the bottom of the crimp, you're probably good to go. Let me know if you have any questions or problems and I'll be glad to help.Goood luck!Ed

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