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Ram 1500: Right high beam was out. Went to replace it and it

Right high beam was out...
Right high beam was out. Went to replace it and it came back on for about a week, then out again. Put in new bulb and it still didn't work and the left side went out. High beam indicator still works however.????????
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Answered in 1 hour by:
9/11/2013
Mike S.
Mike S., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 7,772
Experience: ASE certified
Verified

Is this how the connector on the bulb looks like?

graphic

If so, I would replace both sockets.

graphic

Autozone sells them for $13.19 each, http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Novita-Headlight-Socket/2006-Dodge-RAM-1500-1-2-ton-4WD/_/N-jo0fgZ9cika?itemIdentifier=378892_738549_0_

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

How far back on the wire do I need to go? Is there a junction I can check? Why would they both go out simultaniously?

You shouldn't have to go back no further than the length of the wires that come with the socket. It's the socket that is most likely bad from rust, dirt, etc. Where do you live? What is the climate like there? I live in the Pennsylvania Highlands and my truck and car rust so much here.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Our climate is pretty dry. We don't have much rust here. No road salts or anything. Are the headlight wires interconnected? In other words, does the wire run to one light then from that light to the other?

I can upload a wiring digram if you want.

I may need more info such as engine and if 2wd or 4wd, plus if it's a base, lightning or slt.

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No they don't, click here. They even have separate grounds.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Tried clicking "here" but it says URL not found. It is a V6, 1500 ST package 2WD.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I tested the wires 6-8 inches back from the socket on both sides and I have power on the low beam wire but not on either high beam wire.

Click it again it worked for me, it's a pdf. You need adobe acrobat reader, it's free. Ok, well then it appears it's not the sockets then. Test back further, open that wiring diagram.
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And you are sure the switch is on high beam when testing? the high beam indicator on the dash confirms this?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Yes, the little blue "headlight" indicator is on. When it is on, I get no power reading on the socket/wire at all. When the indicator is off (low beam) I get a hot on one wire.

OK, move the tester back to the totally integrated power module and test again.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Is that the silver box that is mounted to the firewall that has four "outlets" coming out of the top of it with about 30 wires coming out of each outlet?

I don't think so, the integrated Power Module is located in the engine compartment near the battery. This center contains cartridge fuses and mini fuses.

Is your battery right net to the brake master cylinder? If so, that module is right there.

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Here is the Integrated Power Module Location from the owners manual, which you can download here, http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/owners/manuals/

graphic

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Okay, I found that and pulled it up out of the bracket. There are a lot of plugs & wires going into the back of it. There are several that have the wht/brn, wht/grn, wht/gry, wht blue wires going into them. How do I know which is the correct ones to test?


 

First of all, I don't know why you are testing a white/brown or white/green. Actually the white/blue is a white/dark blue.

Plus, there is no need to test the low beams if they are working, so the only ones you should worry about as you said where the 2 high beams. Unless when you said the left side went out, you meant both high and low beams.

So, just test the White/Light Green and White/Gray wires. How many of them are there?

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

The reason I was checking the low beams was mainly to make sure my tester was working and to see which wires were which. I thought if I could find the low beam wires at the IPML, It might be easier to find the other two. Should the high beam wires be coming out of the same plug as the low beam wires? Okay, plug D has a wht/drk blu, wht/gry, wht/brn, wht/grn. Plug E has a wht/gry, wht/grn, wht/brn. They both also have other colored wires but no other white wires in those two plugs.

Test them all.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

On plug "E", the wht/gry wire shows power on high beam. No other wire shows power on high beam.

Ok, does the power go out when you turn off the lights?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

No, that wire stays hot with the headlight switch off.

Then that obviously isn't it. Is there a plug C? From looking at the wiring digram, I would think they are coming from plug C.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Yes there is, let me check it. Also, that wht/gry wire was the dome light. stand by.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I get no test light on any wire on Plug "C".


 

Are there White/Light Green and White/Gray wires on plug C?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Wht/lt grn yes, wht/gry no.

Did the White/Light Green have power with headlights on high beam? If not, I suspect that module is bad. If that module is in a spot that would get wet, that may have caused it. I don't know how to take them apart to do any further testing or repair.

I suppose the dealer would sell that or the salvage yards in case it is really expensive.

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It's getting late for me, I've been up since 7 this morning. Just to let you know, I am not ignoring you just going to bed. I'll check in on you as soon as i wake up tomorrow.
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I'm awake now.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I don't know what else to try Mike. I think I am going to take it to a shop. Can't really afford it but, kinda no choise. Unless you have any other ideas.

Try here for a used tipm first. I believe it's the same as a fuse box, so go down to fuse box in the drop down list. What is your zipcode, although it shouldn't cost much to ship that, you could probably buy it from anywhere in the USA.

http://www.car-part.com

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I see some for $125
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

What are they listed under? I don't see TIPM on the list?


 

Fuse box.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

How sure are you that it is the likely culprit?

That is where the test ended at. If the problem was before that module to do with anything feeding it, more would be out and you did say one went out and then the other. I didn't remember finding any fuses though for the headlights, which I did find odd. Why don't you at least check all of the fuses. You know that module probably lists for about $700 new and the dealer is maybe going to try to mark that price up 100%. They may try to charge you $1,400 for a module. I bet then you wish you knew somewhere you could at least try one that only costs $125.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Oh, I agree. I don't have an issue with the $125 I just hate to spend it if I don't have to. I found it odd there were no fuses for the headlights also. I will try checking all of the fuses first and see what happens. I will let you know what happens. Thank for all of your help/input so far.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Are they something I should be able to check visually as I pull each one or do they need to be checked with a continuity tester?

The should be tested with a 12 volt test light or voltmeter. An inexpensive 12 volt test light may cost $5 and a multi-meter with voltmeter $8, or even cheaper. Test both sides of the fuse. Also, I believe that module got it's power in from a B+ terminal, so you could start off with checking there.
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Like I said, I believe the low beams would be out as well if it were something before that module, unless there are separate fuses for each.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I have a multi-tester. I am not sure what to do to test them but I'll try. I also don't know what the B+ terminal is but, I will see what I can do.

Set the multi-tester on like 15 volts DC. Place the negative (black) lead on a good metal ground or the battery negative post, then place the positive test lead (red), on whatever you want to test for voltage.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I take it that that is with the fuse "still in place in it's socket"? Also, Is replacing the fuse box something the average person can do? Is it just a matter of disconnecting the battery and unplugging the plugs from each terminal and replacing them in the same terminals on the new box? No tricks to getting the plugs to disconnect?

Yes, with the fuse still inplace in the socket. Some fuses also must have the key on.

To be honest, I have never replaced one of those before, but if you want to try it yourself, I can see if my manual has instructions.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Let me take a look at it Mike and test the fuses first. I don't want to put you through all that yet. Thank you so much for you patience. I am not a very good or knowledgable mechanic but I try. On a fixed income I have to try to do everything I can my self first.

Here is what I found:

All of the current from the battery and the generator output enters the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) via a stud on the top of the module. The TIPM cover is removed to access the fuses or relays. Internal connections of all of the power distribution center circuits is accomplished by a combination of bus bars and a printed circuit board.

The Totally Integrated Power Module (2)(TIPM) is a combination unit that performs the functions of the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and the Front Control Module. The TIPM is a printed circuit board based module that contains fuses, internal relays and a microprocessor that performs the functions previously executed by the FCM. The TIPM (2) is located in the engine compartment, next to the battery (1) and connects directly to the B+ cable (5) via a stud located on top of the unit. The ground connection is via electrical connectors. The TIPM provides the primary means of voltage distribution and protection for the entire vehicle.

The molded plastic TIPM housing includes a base and cover. The TIPM cover is easily opened or removed for service and has a fuse and relay layout map integral to the inside surface of the cover. The TIPM housing base and cover are secured in place via mounting tabs. The mounting tabs secure the TIPM (2) to the battery tray mounting bracket (3).
For instructions on R&R, click here and here.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I'm going to go out and test some fuses. I see that they 30 & 40 amp fuses gon't have the little metal tabs that you can touch the tester to. How do I check them?

The might be relays or circuit breakers then.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

All testable fuses check okay. Here is something interesting I found.,(refer to the picture of the pigtail socket, it has three holes for the pins on the bulb.) When I test the headlight sockets with the volt meter both the number one hole and the number three hole on both pigtails show voltage (11.27v) when the headlight switch is on, high or low beam doesn't matter. However, if I just use a test light (The kind that youy hook the alligator clip to a ground and poke into wire insulation to see if it lights up), only one pin lights it up on low bwam and none on high beam. Why is that?

Ok, how are you hooking up the voltmeter?
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One wire should be for high beam, one for low beam and the other ground. What are the color of the wires that show 11.27v?
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I'm not ignoring you, it's just about time for my daily nap, be back up around 4-5pm.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Is that east coast time or west coast?

Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Relist: Other.
Right in the middle of trying to diagnose the problem the mechanic Mike S. said he had to go take a nap and that he would be back on between 4 & 5 p.m.

East, I'm awake again.

I'm hypothyroid and get tired from time to time.

What are the color of the wires that show 11.27v?

How are you hooking up the voltmeter?

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I couldn't wait any longer so, I just took it to a shop. Thanks anyway.

Well, what did they find out?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I don't know yet. I dropped it off at 12:30 PST. They are going to call.

3:30 eastern. Just remember if they tell you they want $1,400 for a Integrated Power Module, you can get one for $125.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

The cheapest I can get one anywhere near here is $475. I am in a bit of a hurry, I am supposed to leave for Wyoming on Sunday. Is it ethical to ask them to install a used one. Is it likely they would? I mean, they will be getting the labor charges regardless right?

Sorry, I was out.

Labor for replacing it might be 1 hour. Labor for diagnosing it, might be another hour.

Mike S.
Mike S., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 7,772
Experience: ASE certified
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Customer reply replied 3 years ago

Hey, I just noticed, when they put in the new I.P.M., it doesn't have "which fuse is what" printed on the inside of the cover, can you help me out with that somehow? It has been a year since the change over and I trashed the old I.P.M.

Here are pages 466-469 of the owners manual showing the TIPM fuses, click here.

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Customer reply replied 3 years ago

Received it, thank you so much. I don't know why but, those pages are not in my manual.

ok
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Mike S.
Mike S.
Mike S., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 7,772
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