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Jerry
Jerry, Master Mechanic
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 17219
Experience:  ASE Master tech, 30 years exp. troubleshooter, driveability tech
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Dodge dakota: This has to do with m y previous a/c question

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This has to do with m y previous a/c question on the 1997 Dakota. I decided that before I ran out and bought a compressor I would check the orifice tube for blockage. When I finally got the line disconnected (which is the second part of this question), I discovered that where wasn't a tube, just an empty line. So the question is, would it be possible that crud got into the condenser causing the pressure issues I told you about before? And if so, how do I flush it? Second, how in the #@$@## XXXXX you get those spring connectors apart? I've bought half a dozen different tools and tried them on fuel lines and now a/c lines and have NEVER got one of the connectors apart (I had enough room on the orifice line to get it apart with a screw driver)
They can be a bear sometimes. I personally like to use the plastic ones, (that come in different colors) and they wrap around the line. then spray a little WD-40 in there first to sort of aid the lock spring to move. Then wiggle and twist, sometimes even pry a little on the lines.
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So the orifice is not in the outlet line on the condenser?
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graphic

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Do you know if the AC ever did work? There has to be an orifice for the system to even operate right. I am sure you don't have an expansion block on the fire wall?
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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

As far as the connectors, I did all the steps you suggested and wrestled with it for literally two hours and couldn't get it apart.


 


I shined a light down the line and there was nothing down as far as I could see. The a/c hasn't worked since I bought the truck two years ago.

I am wondering now if a 'body' shop may have had to work on the front and may have forgotten (or didn't know) there is an orifice that goes in that line. That would cause a pressure problem with the high side not being able to get up to where it needs to be and the low side tryng to equal out rather than have suction pressure.
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You might save the price of a compressor and just put an orifice in and see how it does. Definately blow the lines out though, that will help be sure that it's clear.

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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

How do I go about blowing the line / condenser out? (assuming I can get the high side connector apart) Do I just push air through with the a compressor?

Yes, you can. It will always have a slight delay before it comes out, about 3 seconds or so and it keeps coming out after you stop, that's normal. You just want to be sure that it's clear. It more than likely is because of the way the pressure would equalize with the compressor off. You can always leave the high side line on at the condenser and take it off the compressor. That way you don't have to fight with the "quick" connect on it.
Jerry and 3 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX it a try. rating on it's way

Your welcome Kevin and come again, anytime, thanks and best wishes with it.

Hey there Kevin. I closed the other question down so you don't have to keep paying.
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It sounds like you are on the right track and just have to fill the system all the way up.
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The compressor should cycle on and off when the system gets low.
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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Not quite sure how justanswer handles things, I guess you get to keep answering the same question, even if it's multiple questions. Anyhow, you're saying that if I finish filling it up I should be OK? Even with the low side pressure going upwards of 100# ("in the red zone)?

The low side will show very high while the freon, (let's call it) is going in. Then when you shut the valve it will go down. A stable reading is after the system runs for 3 minutes, (but it stabilizes much sooner) like in one minute. That would be an accurate reading.
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Also, you can follow up on an answer as many times as you need to, that is why I tried to shut the other question down, (that way you don't pay any more), thanks

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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Put another can of "freon" in last night and it took it all. Final readings were: low side 25# high side 150# with compressor running. Equaled out at about 45# on each side with compressor off. Got cold air so I'm calling it done. Thanks for hanging in there and getting it done.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Put another can of "freon" in last night and it took it all. Final readings were: low side 25# high side 150# with compressor running. Equaled out at about 45# on each side with compressor off. Got cold air so I'm calling it done. Thanks for hanging in there and getting it done.


P.S. appears the main issue was the orifice tube missing.

Oh yeah, you need the orifice. Good job Kev and if it starts to become not cool enough you may just want to add another can, (12 oz) to make it closer to the 32. The final pressures on a warm, (87 degree day) should run about 40 on the low and 220 on the high at idle.
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Thanks again and come anytime.
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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Do I rate this answer again or that already done?

No Kevin, Sorry I can't seem to keep that from posting, must be a glitch in the system. Thanks again though and don't have to worry bout that,

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, Do have a great Labor day weekend too!
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Just want to make sure you're covered and get credit. Thanks

Oh yeah, and thank you. Best wishes with it and come again, anytime.