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Dodge stratus: wont start..crankshaft sensor..Fuel pressure..spark

My dodge stratus wont start...
My dodge stratus wont start. replaced didtributer and crankshaft sensor. Fuel pressure and no spark.  my wife started this and it run rough. As though the cap and rotor had moisture in it. she put it in gear and it died. then i replaced the above parts. still no spark, but fuel pressure
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Answered in 9 hours by:
4/28/2011
Don Knight
Don Knight, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 1,736
Experience: 40+ years all makes&modles
Verified

Don Knight :

Check to see if you have power to the distributor,you should have at least 12 volts on the black/white wire.

Customer:

don, just checked I have a black / tan wire. The test light shows power but the multimeter reads 11.9 volts. The wire i tested if plugged into the ditributor would be the closest wire to the firewall. this car has had a oil leak and really haard to tell color of wire.

Don Knight :

If you have an ohm meter check the #1 & #2 terminals at the coil they should ohm at .56-.68.If that is good check from the #1 terminal to the out put terminal on the coil it should read 9.4-12.8.If those readings are not correct replace the coil.

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don

are the the terminals marked on the coil 1 an2? Also where is the output terminal on the coil? Now when i mentioned that i replaced the distributor,i meant the whole thing. The parts store said it included the coil. The repair manual said that the coil wasnt servicable to replace the distrbutor.Is this true? local cost was 300. this did not help. still no spark. i will check with ohm meter this evening if you will clarify the correct terminals. I checked terminals before but may have had wrong ones. let me know what color the wires are on the plug then i can check that terminal on the coil/distributor. I was able to return the distributor for a refund. old/ original distributor is back on car. no spark on any clyinder at distributor cap. Thanks

The #1 terminal should be the black/white wire and have 12 volts the next wire should be white and have battery voltage with the key on.The next wire should be black and that is a ground wire.The last wire is a black/blue wire and that gets a ground from the ECM to fire off the coil.The out put terminal is on the coil its self it is what sticks up and connects to the distributor cap.The coil is part of the distributor and is not a separate component.I will be back on line tomorrow at 5AM CDT,please let me know what you find and we can go from there.I would also like you to check for any codes by cycling the ingition key on and off(dont try to start) three times , on the third time leave the key on and see if the check engine light flashes any codes.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don, ok here we go. first if it matters. My plug for the distributor has 7 wires. Next what you call black/ white mine is black/tan. your white wire corressponds to a tan wire on my plug if this matters. My test results are as follows

Plug on car

black/white 11.9volts, white wire no volts with key on! ground wire tested good. The ECM ground tested good. Now on to the distributor terminals. #1 and #2 tested 0.9 ohms. #1 to the output had no reading. Do I change the distrbutor. The white wire not having voltage throws everything off for me. What do I do next? What feeds voltage to the white wire?

Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Forgot, I had no codes stored. When this first happened it thru the multiple cylinder misfire code. I have erased it since. I have an actron code reader. generic but works.I did cycle the key three times to check and had no flashing check engine light, and nothing on the odometer. Thanks again for yur help!!!

Sorry I was looking at the wrong diagram.For your car the black/white #1 Is battery voltage,#2,#4,&#7 are all grounds.#3 is what the ECM puts to a ground to fire off the coil.#6 should be a red wire that comes off the MFI relay and should have battery voltage with the key on.If it doesn't your problem could be with the crank sensor.I am not familiar with your scanner but if it has a data stream see if you get engine rpm reading when you crank the engine if no rpm reading then change the crank position sensor.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, my scanner has no data stream. However a friend has a snap on model with data stream. His snap on model would show a rpm reading of 200 moments after we had quit cranking. thought maybe it wasnt working . so i replaced the crank sensor earlier this week. still no spark. I havent been outside yet. I will recheck all wires and send results.
Check the MFI relay and make sure that you have power on two legs with the key on and two grounds.Check the relay only if you dont have power on the red wire at the distributor.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Red wire has 11.9 volts
Next lets see if the ECM is working .If you have a test light put it to the black/blue wire #3 and crank the engine the test light should flash.This works better with a noid light but should work with the test light.If you dont have a pulse the ECM has a problem if you do have a pulse the coil is defective.Some time we do get defective "new" parts.It has happened to me several times over the years.Please let me know what you find,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don, I have no pulse. However i am trying to check it by myself. Kind of hard to crank the car and hold the test light. Where is the ecm on this car? I am going to check #3 wire on plug again later when i get help.

 

The ECM is located behind the glove box.It is mounted on the right.One other thing I forgot to ask but is the security light on?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Security light isnt on.
Ok let me know how the rest of the test come out.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don , I just called napa and autozone just to price the ecm. Napa didnt list the ecm for a 3 liter stratus 2001. and autozone said i would have to take it out and bring it to them to send in for repair. Are these ecm's hard to get? Also under the hood at the fuse panel there is a thing marked ECU. What is this?
I am trying to find out, but I dont see any information on this component.I will check some other sources and get back to you on that.The wire that fires the coil goes to the ECM it is on connector C-111 Pin #11 and it is the black/blue wire.
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Try this with one of the ingition wire unpluged (spark plug wire) put a spark plug in the wire then make sure that the spark plug is grounded an with the key on touch the black/blue wire to a ground.If the spark plug now fires the coil is good.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
The black blue wire is the one I am needing to check correct? The local junkyard said this component is engine control unit/module. is this correct? any idea
Yes the black /blue wire is the one you need to put to a ground just touch it to a ground mountmenterly the second you touch it to a ground it should fire the spark plug.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don I just checked #3 wire and light did not came on.
That is a ground circuit from the ECM to fire the coil.With the key on ground that wire and see if the coil fires.If you can get a noid light hook up #1 and #3 wires and see if you get a pulse.If you get a pulse then the ECM is good.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don i put cap and rotor back on. I took out spark plug out and put it in plug boot held on ground then put black/blue #3 wire to ground and spark plug did not fire. I am going to see if i can find a noid lite and see if I have a pulse on #1and #3 wires while cranking.

Yea I forgot that the rotor is not spinning so the first test wont work,you need to do the last test on #1&#3 with the noid light,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don used noid lite across #1 and #3. I turned key on and lite come on and pulsed while cranking. So that means coil is bad. correct?

Just two more test and we should be done.With the distributor cap off make sure that the rotor turns when you crank the engine.If that is good plug the distributor back and put the test light on the pole that goes into the cap and spin the engine over the test light should flash if it does not you have a defective coil(distributor).Please let me know what you find.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don, rotor does turn and no voltage at pole according to the test light

You have a defective coil.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

I am going to try to get one mon. or tues. Thanks

 

Have a great weekend talk to you latter,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, I just tryed a different distributor and still the same results. I will go back thru test tomorrow evening. I will let you know what i find. Rich
The Stratus from hell.Hey Rich try a tap test on the ECM.Just tap on it with the palm of your hand like you would spank a baby and see if it now starts.With the noid light flashing I dont see the ECM as a problem.Just make sure that you have the grounds that I have listed in our previous chats,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, yes it is the stratus from hell. i would like to send it there. I did not see the ecm behind glove box on the right. Would it look like a GM ecm? Big black box. Ok here goes the test results. rotor turns, no power at distributor polewhile cranking. with noid lite on #1 and #3 terminals lite is on with key and dims a little while cranking.... #3 to ground test light comes on.. spark plug grounded touch #3 to ground plug does not fire... what is your thought? another bad coil/distributor?
You say that the noid light dims? It should flash. check the voltage at number one terminal again,it should have battery voltage,at least 12 volts.You may have a problem at the ingition switch.Check the voltage at the switch itself on the black/white wire.It should also have battery voltage when you turn the key to the run position.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, at the distrbutor #1 terminal has 12.1 volts. at the ignition switch i didnt see a black white wire. I have the following choices black-blue,black-red,blue-red,green, white-red.
Sorry about that it is the green wire but if you have battery voltage at terminal #1 then the switch is feeding that circuit.Check the #1 terminal for voltage when you crank the engine it should remain about 12 volts.If it drops lower than that check your battery and make sure it is at least 12Volts when cranking.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don I charged battry last couple days. I will check for voltage drop when i get home tonight.
Ok. Talk at you in the AM,Don
Don Knight
Don Knight, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 1,736
Experience: 40+ years all makes&modles
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
don, the voltage drops to 10.2 volts while cranking. i accepted answer by accident. hope you answer the rest of these. thanks rich
Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don was just thinking. I am grounding my multimeter on the negative post of battery while checking the voltage on terminal #1. i did not check the battery voltage while cranking. I will have this done before i hear from you in the a.m. thanks rich
Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Battery voltage drop to 10.9 at battery while cranking. Still 10.2 at terminal

Have your battery retested it should not drop like that.Also check the ground cable at the block and make sure that it is clean and tight.We will solve this.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

I know we will. My wife just bought this. She has just started a new job and has only driven it to her first interview, Back to the car. Don, you mention the ground. the coating has come off the ground where it is fastened to the inner fender well. I will go ahead and check and possibly replace. I will keep you posted. Thanks Rich

I will be here,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, Where the neg. cable is fastened to the inner fender well. All the insulation is removed and a metal loop was installed and bolted to the fender. Looks almost as if this was done at factory. just behind fuse panel under hood. my question is do you have any idea where it is grounded to the block? There is also a few more wires that are plugged into this panel and are in a loom with the negative cable. looks as if they run towards starter. Let me know, got to go to work.
On your enginr there is a ground by the fire wall about the center of the engine also by the battery on the fender well and on the engine by the corner above the spark plug.There is also a ground by the computer just under the ECM.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don I removed and cleaned the grounds on the firewall and by the battery on fender well.replaced battery negative cabl. The ground at the ECM was loose. I could move wires on the bolt. Tightened this. I still have 11.2 volts during cranking. 12.6 at battery. I charged and load tested this. load test drop to 10.5 then returns to 12.6 off load. What are your thoughts now?
If your battery drops to 10.5 under a load test then your battery is not holding a charge well.You may have a week cell in the battery.If you have a battery charger hook it up when you are starting the car and see what the noid light does.It should be a bright flash while cranking.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, Hooked up the battery charger and put noid lite in #1 and #3 terminals. When I turned the ignition switch on lite comes on and is bright and stays this way while cranking. no pulse or flash. it does dim a little while cranking. However is still pretty bright.
You are not getting a signal from the computer to ground the coil and fire it off.On your earlier test you said that the noid light flashed and now it is not. Try tapping on the computer and see if the light flashes.I really think at this point your computer is the problem.If you still have a scanner make sure that you are getting a crank reference from the crank sensor.If that is good then your computer is the problem,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, you mentioned that the computer was behind glovebox on the right. All I see is what appears to be the connections for the A/C and heater controls. I priced some used ones on line,(carparts.com) It mentions in the description firewall. Is this the location? Could use a little more info please. Not sure what i am looking for on this car. when i mentioned that the noid lite had a pulse, i was testing by myself. I was trying to watch thru the gap in the hood while cranking from inside car. I will recheck all the items you mentioned above and send results. I hope we are getting closer to solving this. Thanks Rich
Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, i tryed tapping on what I think is the computer. behind glove box on right. i also tapped on a iten marked ECU that is in the maxi fuse and circuit breaker location. Neither did anything for it. I checked red wire on distributor plug with a test light it was hot with key on and while cranking. If i understand this is the wire from the crank sensor. I will see about getting the scanner again to see if we are getting a crank sensor reading. I have not checked this since I replaced crank sensor. Thanks rich
You have found the computer,it is mounted on the right under the A pillar.If you are getting a crank signal then the only thing left is the ECM.I am not sure if you can just swap ECM with out a reprogram, you may want to check with your local Dodge dealer.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, I hooked up A snap-on scanner model mt2500. When i cranked engine over, i had to crank it a few seconds and a crank sensor reading of 210 rpm come up. never did start. I also had trouble code of 0340 cam sensor appear. this was not on there before. This scan tool has no option for a cam sensor reading. One last thing that hasnt happened before, there is a sensor under the throttle body to the right side that was making a ticking noise when i turned ignition switch on. I unpluged and plugged it back in and it quit. This also never happened before either.. i am ready for your thoughts.... Thanks Rich
You should have a reading on the scanner that states where or not the cam and crank sensors are in sync.The cam position sensor is part of the distributor.With all the test you have done every thing is pointing to the ECM.One other thought comes to mind and that is you may have jumped time.If you can do a compression test, that should tell if you are in time.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, Do i need to do a compression test on all cylinders? Do i need to remove upper part of intake to check the back three cylinders? Also if timing has jumped,What are the chances of there being bent valves?
Check the front three first.As to the interference engine I am not showing that engine as an interference type.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don, compression check is completed. #2 has130 lbs. #4 has135lbs. #6 has 130lbs. I noticed some thing this evening ,while working on the car. what is supposed to be under the passenger seat on this car? Looks as if there was some kind of module there. I found two terminals under there and some of the wires were spliced together. Looks like to different terminals. ( wont plug together) all connections are good. Any idea what has been by-passed???? Perhaps my whole problem.... Thanks Rich

 

Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don, compression check is completed. #2 has130 lbs. #4 has135lbs. #6 has 130lbs. I noticed some thing this evening ,while working on the car. what is supposed to be under the passenger seat on this car? Looks as if there was some kind of module there. I found two terminals under there and some of the wires were spliced together. Looks like to different terminals. ( wont plug together) all connections are good. Any idea what has been by-passed???? Perhaps my whole problem.... Thanks Rich

Really starting to think we should have passed on purchasing this car....

The compression looks good so I would rule out the timing.At this point you may want to have the car check at the dealer to see if the computer is indeed defective.As to the wire under the seat if you have power seats then that is the motor I dont see any thing else under the seats.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Hi Don. I took the stratus from hell to the dodge dealer. Here are there results. The security system had the car immobilized. ( I did not think it had a security system. there was no light on.) It also has jumped time. approxiatly two teeth they say. My next question is why did i have such good compression? The wanted to charge 1600 dollars to replace it. I brought it home and will replace it in a week or two.
You can have a good compression test with the belt being just two teeth off.I was kind of leaning that way when you had the cam code.As for the security system I am surprised that you dont have a light for this system.You may want to ask the dealer what happened to the security light.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
I have already picked the car up from the dealer. I will ask about security light at a later date. Thanks again for your help.
Glad that you found your problem.If you need help with the timing belt just get back to me.When you do the belt make sure that you turn the engine over by hand two times and recheck the timing marks.I have seen a few of these come into the shop for that reason.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Probably start on this Monday the 20th. I did read that about turning it over by hand 2 times. Thanks Rich
If you need any help just get back to me.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, here we go again. I changed the timing belt, both tensioners, hydraulic tensioner and the water pump. I started car for about 20 seconds to hear it run. It really purred. I shut it off installed all serpentine belts and covers. I then filled it with antifreeze and started the car. It ran about fifteen minutes. I had my wife turn on the heater and it died. It will not run at idle. About 1000 r.p.m. it runs fine. I have removed all covers and the timing marks all line up. I did turn it over by hand 2 times before the initial start-up. I did unhook a/c compressor and this helped, before that it wouldnt run. MIssed out bad. I will check for any codes first thing in the a.m. Let me know what you think. Rich
Good morning Rich try the key cycling test and see if you have any codes.You may want to check the idle speed control motor and make sure that it is clean.I would also make sure that the throttle bore is clean and the throttle plate is closing.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, where is the idle speed control motor located? I will check the throttle bore and cycle key three time and leave on to check for codes. thanks
The idle air control motor is located just under the throttle bore.It should be held in place with two torx screws.When you remove it you will see a cone shaped tip,make sure that the tip is clean,it should have a ring around it where it rest in the throttle housing.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don i cleaned the idle control motor. I had no codes. I started car it idled fine as soon as iput it in gear it started running rough. exhaust was white but cleared up. i assumed carb cleaner. It did throw a code of Po154. bank 2 sensor 1. do i need to replace an o2 sensor. would this cause it to run rough. also i have to feather throttle to get it above 3000 rpm. it will clear up run good.
If the oxygen sensor is not working correctly it can cause a problem as the ECM cant tell how much to adjust the fuel trim on that bank.You can either be running to rich or to lean.I would change the o2 sensor.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, I cleared the o2 sensor code. This occured after I had sprayed the carb cleaner in. Could this have been related? I have run car since and code will not reappear. Is there any way to adjust ignition timing on this car. Remember I had coil out several times. Next question. Is it possible that the converter is plugged? It will be sluggish then clear up and rev up. The throttle is not as responsive as it used to be at times. Very intermittent. One more thing would it be possible for you to call me? XXX-XXX-XXXX is my cell number. I am with AT&T if you have cell service it will be free. If you dont mind. Thanks Rich
It is possible that the cat is partially clogged.You can try disconnecting the exhaust and see if that corrects the problem.The ingition timing is not adjustable and you need a scan tool to check it.I am sorry but my contract with Just Answer prohibits us from any phone calls.The carb cleaner could have caused you o2 code.try unpluging the air flow sensor and see if that corrects your problem.You can try to just keep the engine running and see if any codes appear,if the timing marks are correct then i would assume that you have either a sensor malfunction or a fuel pressure problem.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

I understand about the phone, just easier to talk sometimes. You mean the mass air flow sensor I assume. It just revs up slow Don. It will idle after you keep it running a few minutes. When u snap the throttle it doesnt seem to be very responsive. It will idle down and die at times after it has run for awhile or you try to take off in it. The timing marks are correct. I have no codes as far as the ecm recognizing any sensor malfunctions, other than the o2 sensor yesterday. I put the Snap on mt 2500 on the car and it showed the ignition advance from 15 degress to 29 degrees. however i am not sure I trust my knowledge on this tester. that is why I asked about the phone call. I will get with the person that i borrow it from. I think it heats up to fast as far as seeing heat waves coming from the engine. The engine is normal operating temp per gauge and scan tool. coincide..

the timing is supposed to be 15 BTDC+/- 7.If you can access the base timing mode it should be 5BTDC+/-3.It seems that your timing is correct.I have been going over our "chats" lets try checking the fuel pressure again.I dont see where you had a gage to check the pressure but it should be38 psi at idle and with the vacuum disconnected from the pressure regulator it should go up to 47-50psi.Please let me know what you have,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

It's backfiring every now and then also. I unplugged the mass airflow sensor and it made it worse. I'll check the fuel pressure latter. Planning to get an infrared heat gun to check the exhaust to see where it is the hottest.

Let me know what you find,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, the stratus is at the dealer. they said the fuel pressure is fine. The service writer did not know what it was though. They said the computer is getting crank signal reading and the injectors are pulsing. They want to put a ditributor in it. 1200.00 dollars...They dont know if it is the pcm or the distributor for sure. They want to start throwing parts at it like I have done know. I have put original distributor back in and it ran the same. Slow response on the throttle. I then put original computer back in and the car would crank and not start. Original problem. I took it to them and here we are back to square one. I am taking my junkyard parts to them tomorrow so they can decide. The service writer and tech believe a distributor will fix it.. I want them to put mine on before i spend 1200.00 on one. Pcm is also 1200.00. or 500.00 to have mine sent off and redone. I would like your opinion please.
If you need a computer try calling [email protected] 1-866-326-4227.They sell re manufactured computers that are programed.You will need the VIN number for your car and the millage.I am not sure about the distributor correcting the problem it seems more likely that the PCM is having erratic signals.You could try the distributor first,it is the least expensive way to go but since you all ready tried a different distributor I am still leaning to the ECM or the wiring.Please keep me informed about what happens,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don I agree with you about distributor.I know it will run with the junkyard distributor in it. It does however still run badly. Sluggish, not very responsive.... Do you have any idea where to start on checking the wiring?

The dealer should be able to run a diagnostic scan on the signals from the ECM, but from all the test you have done i really think that the ECM is the cause of your problem.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
don, one more question. If crankshaft was off by two teeth on the timing would it run and be sluggish? or not run at all?. Check back on our chats with the symptom of some backfiring. I am questioning my timing also, after talking with the dealer. I am certain that it is right on. They are not.
In todays engines timing is everything it must be dead on or it can cause the sludgiest performance you are having.I still am a little confused about the dealer not knowing which part is defective but recheck the timing just to make sure that it is dead on.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, The dealer checked the timing, and found it to be right on. However the said the hydraulic tensioner is bad.This I put on new with belt,and water pump etc... I have another new one coming. They want to charge another 220.00 to check compression. remember I have done this on the front three cylinders. The results are posted previously. Is there a need to have them doe this on rear three cylinders? I still think the ecm is bad. I did take my junkyard parts to the dealer and told them to install the ecm and the car would run. They did just that and it runs. Rough, as it was. This happened prior to them checking the timing. I got ahead of myself. The junkyard ecm is in the car with the original distributor/coil. They are killing me with the hourly rates and time guides.
At this point you are running out of the possible causes for the rough running.I would recommend the compression test.With all the test already done it would seem to be a mechanical problem.I am a little concerned about the dealers original diagnostic.It sounds like they are fishing.If there is another dealer in town I might check with them.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, here is the update. Dealer did not do the compression test. they removed the O2 sensors and ran the car. It threw 2 codes after that. the crankshaft and camshaft codes. dealer informed me that they read thru the flowcharts and the botXXXXX XXXXXne was the ecm. I sent mine of and they found inside corroded. sent me a reman unit. the dealer installed the last friday only to find the same symptoms. no acceleration, not very responsive!!! I currently owe them 673 for labor only. They have checked everything i have and still havent fixed my car. I think it is time for a different dealer to look at it.. I would like your thoughts please.. Aggravated in indiana. Rich
I agree that it is time for a fresh face to look at the problem.Just make sure that you bring all the test results to your "new" shop.At this point a rag in the gas tank is looking good,LOL.Sorry but it is early Monday.I will see if I can find any service bulletins and get back to you,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
The rag suggestion we have already heard of several times.LOL Once from me... Let me know if you find any service bullletions. I am supposed to hear from Dodge this morning.
I am checking now will get back to you,Don
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The only thing I found was a recall for the wiring harness for the crank position sensor.Have the dealer check the harness for any spot that it may be grounding at.The OEM Ref# XXXXX XXXXX
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
I will let them know. Thanks Don
Please let me know what you find and try to have a great day,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don, they couldnt reference that oem number in the above message. They called dodge and was advised to check the engine vaccuum, spark plugs, and to remove the O2 sensors to see if that helped, which they had done the the o2 sensors already... wait and see what tomorrow brings.

I was going thru some of the paper work we have accummalated on this project. I have found a printout where we had stopped at a autozone because the checkengine light come on. The code was PO442. I am sure you know this butI will go on. causes are as follows. evap system small leak no flow, evap system is monitored for its ability to hold vacuum.symptoms gas cap,evap canisteror hose cracked,purge or vent solenoid defective,and last vacuum leak at engine... could this be it. no code like this since.

Customer reply replied 6 years ago
This happened two to three weeks prior to previous problems..... this code has never been duplicated. Only happened once...
This code normally is due to a loose gas cap and even if you did have a leak this code is for a small leak which really does not affect any thing except the integrity of the fuel tank.I am at home now but when I get to my office I will recheck that number,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Hi Don, the stratus is back home!!! On the trailer. Dealer couldnt fix it either. Did not check compression. runs real smooth at idle. Same symptoms as before. except we have the following codes. PO340 and PO335. I installed new crank sensor and ecm if you remember. I would like more info on the recall you mentioned before. OEM reference # XXXXX would this be the wiring connected to the crank sensor i replaced or the wiring on the car itself? Dealer informed me that it was wiring on the sensor itself. Is this correct? I am thinking I have a wiring problem.. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks Rich
The recall was for the wiring to the sensor,so with that done there is another problem.The first code is for the cam sensor,check for a good ground at pin #7.I am starting to think that the wiring harness for the ECM may be the problem.If you can get another wiring harness try replacing it.I know it is a big job but you have done just about every thing else.This is one for the books!
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, found a possibility. I think. I was cleaning the tabs that the crankshaft sensor reads from behind the timing belt gear (on the crank). there are marks on this tab where the teeth from the gear have been lined up at one time. these marks and the teeth are not lined up now. If that tab for the crank sensor has slipped will this cause my symptoms??? Thanks Rich
The tab has to be in a locked position,if not the crank sensor readings will be inaccurate.There are two reason for the slack.One is the metal tab has a slot for the key way on the crankshaft.Either the slot is worn or the key is worn.I think you have found your problem,congratulations,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
So the tab doesnt spin with the crank? Next I removed the timing belt and hydraulic adjuster, and the repair manual says to use a gear puller to remove the the timing belt gear from the crank. the problem now is that tab is against the back of the gear, there is no place for the gear puller to grab the gear for removal. Do I risk damaging the tab trying to remove both at same time? Do i try to drive/ push the tab back?
I have not done one of these in a while so let me do some digging and I will get back to you.One other thing does the gear have any threaded holes where you could use a steering wheel puller?
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I have not found any special removal procedures for the gear.Try gently prying on each side of the gear with a flat blade screw driver.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don the only other hole is for a roll pin that the harmonic balancer fits on. I hate to pry on it but m ay have too. It will be hard to get something in to it. It is recessed a little bit, It also looks like an aluminum block.
The part behind the gear is the oil pump.There is no special tool that I show for removing the gear.There is a tool for that gear on the 2.7 engine but not the 3.0.you may check with a parts house for a "L" shaped pry bar.I got a set at harbor freight.If the key way pin is twisted you may have a bit of a problem because the gear usually just wiggles off.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
I will find something. The keyway does look twisted. Also that tab is right against the back of the gear. I will have to get something to get between them.It wont be easy,however i have found the problem!!!
Please keep me informed,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Don, I got the gear and tab off car this evening. I will get parts ordered tomorrow. There are two small roll pins on the tab that go thru a spacer then into the back off the timing belt gear. When i pulled gear off everything was separated. The small roll pins were not broken but the tab will not lay flat against the spacer. It wobbles a cross flat surface. I will let you know the outcome! Thanks for all your help!!! Rich
Good morning Rich.When you get the new parts make sure the sensor plate on the back of the crank gear is tight.If it is loose just center punch the roll pins.Please let me know how things go,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don, The roll pins on the sensor plate i took off were also loose where they attach to the plate. They had alot of play. I will be in touch next week. Thanks for hanging in there thru all this. Wow, what a mess. Heading out in a few to Dodge to ordser parts. You have a great weekend!! Thanks!!!!

I am not sure about the great weekend as I live in Lafayette,La. And we are in line for a tropical storm.Not much wind just alot of water.Looks like I need to stop on the way home for some beer and ice,LOL.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Hi don hope you had a great labor day weekend, blessed with alot of ice cold beer. I am having one right now. i pulled the car of the trailer this evening with power to spare!!! I repaced that tab and we are ready to roll. I wanted to thank you again for all your help with this. It is greatly appreciated. There is a smile on my wifes face again. Thanks Rich
m glad that you got the car running.Had lots of beer over the weekend but it rained all the time.Tropical storm Lee just would not move.First time I did not BBQ in over two years.Have a great day,Don
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
We havent had any rain in central indiana most of the summer. My yard is dead. Hope you didnt have any water damage. Thanks Again
Every thing is fine and the weather this past week was almost perfect.
Don Knight
Don Knight, ASE Certified Technician
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Don, Hope that we can keep in touch. You have been a tremendous help with this car. I hope to hear from you time to time. My e-mail is [email protected] I will keep this account open until it renews then will probably close it. If i dont hear from you have a great rest of the year. Thanks a million. Rich and XXXXX XXXXX.

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