Something tells me that I missed something... You couldn't possibly have luck that bad.
Since you had a good 8v signal I assumed our powers and grounds were good. That may have been a bad assumption. Let's check a few things at the 60 way connector now. You'll find the numbering scheme cast into the plastic mold on the back (wire) side of the connector once the wire shield is removed. It's WAY handier than trying to make sense of the diagram for locations!
Let's start with the two power sources.
Pin 3 (red/ white wire) is your B+ (direct battery) feed. It should be hot at all times.
Pin 9 (dark blue) is the ignition on signal, the wakeup call to the controller.
Pins 11 and 12 (black/ tan) are your power grounds. They should have 10 ohms of resistance or less to battery negative.
Pin 6 (violet/ white) is the 5v output feed to your MAP and TPS sensors. If this circuit is shorted to ground, we'll wind up with no CE light and the PCM will act as if it's dead. Check between Pin 6 and battery negative for any continuity on something like the 2K ohm scale. It should be an open circuit with the 60-way disconnected because its return circuit is Pin 4 (sensor ground) and is disconnected at the same time.
Pin 7 (orange) is the 8v feed you tested already, so I don't expect to see anything wrong here. Check it anyway, testing between Pin 7 and battery negative with the ohm setting. You should have an open circuit.
Now test between Pin 6 and Pin 4 (sensor ground, black/ light blue). Expect to see some continuity... something like 1000 ohms or so. Anything less than 500 ohms might be trouble due to a bad (shorted) TPS or MAP.
And test between Pin 7 (8v feed) and Pin 4. I'd expect this to be an open circuit on at least the 2K ohm scale... perhaps even higher. Check it on 20K just for grins to see if we might have a shorted cam or crank sensor. Have the crank sensor connected for this test.
Back in a bit...
Edited by Dodgerench on 1/18/2010 at 8:48 PM EST