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Dodgerench, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 3407
Experience:  30+ years Dodge/Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
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I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota 3.9L sport vin X . My ...

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I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota 3.9L sport vin "X". My truck has an intermittent problem right now to wear it doesn''t want to move when given gas. Back fires has a rough Idle but if I put it in nuetral and reev the motor a couple times it smooths out and runs fine.

Mr. mare, welcome to Just Answer!.

A couple of things fit your description, but I think low coil spark output is our best bet at this point. Since the entire secondary ignition system (besides the coil) has been replaced recently, it doesn't seem likely that you've burned out a coil wire or blasted through a distributor rotor.

Pull any spark plug wire off and set up a grounded test light (or jumper wire) so that you can coax spark to leap to its maximum output. You should see a minimum of 1/2" of spark, 3/4" is more like what I'd expect. Anything less than this will mean your coil is a hurtin' unit.

I've been seeing instances with our Magnum coils where the individual stamped-steel core sections that are exposed to the elements become rusted and swell, breaking the coil internally and allowing secondary voltage to jump back to primary 12v. Once rolled over, you might notice cracking in the epoxy base where the primary connector is located...

Write back if this comes up short, knight. We'll continue from there!

Good luck,


Dodgerench and 5 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
I'm afraid that wasn't the fix. I hooked up an adjustable spark plug tester just like you said. And saw a weak to now spark. I thought for sure that we had nailed it. Installed the new coil. Zipped her around the block to only have her due the same thing and stall. Restarted the truck. Ran alittle rough at first, but then smoothed out and has been running fine. But, I,m still not sure if I will only have this problem on cold start. I will lt you know when I find out tomorrow. Please Help Me. Customer

No problem bud... we'll get to the bottom of this.

I'm surprised (as you might imagine) to see that the coil didn't solve your problem. Check your spark output at a few locations, starting at the coil.

Then move to the distributor side of the coil wire.

Then to the spark plug boot ends.

Watch for a dropoff of spark along the way, something that is significant. You'll naturally lose SOME spark due to circuit resistance, gap "jumpage" at the rotor... but it should remain fairly hot all along the way. I'm looking for a spark loss that drops it below 1/2"... probably quite a bit below that.

Try to compare the spark you see while it's running OK to when it's... not.

Just wondering. Did you see the rust expansion and cracking of the original coil? I'll be standing by!


Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Hi ED, That is another thing. The coil did visually appear to be fine. No signs of rust or expansion. I'll try your theory Tomorrow it's to late to do today.
Shouldn't we atleast get a check engine light on a miss fire? I wish I had an engine diagnostic reader.
Could it be a partially restricted Cat? 67K on the odometer.
And when the dealer replaced my fuel pump I didn't see fuel filter. Is my filter part of the pump?
Customer you're ANYTHING BUT in diagnostics! Wonderful observations! We'll get through this just fine.

Misfire should set a code of some sort, but the Misfire Montior plays each cylinder against the others to determine whether reduced cylinder performance has been found. When they ALL run poorly there's no actual reference and you might escape a misfire code.

Very good observation!

A restricted cat can cause some oddball problems, no doubt about it. I'd expect your problem to get worse with added throttle or engine load, something that gets progressively worse as you pour on more demand. It somewhat resembles what you've described, but I heavily discount exhaust restriction at this point. For one thing, it just doesn't happen in the 2003 units, unlike earlier years. You could have someone rev the engine in neutral while you check exhaust flow at the tailpipe. It will normally kick your palm backward on a quick throttle stab. If you see something other than this, let me know!

Last (probably should've been first), let's check for codes.

Your Dakota is equipped with a factory code-read feature that is tripped by rolling the ignition key from off to on three times... leaving it ON.

Watch the odometer window as any powertrain-relevant codes will come streaming out. You'll see "P-done" at the end of the test or if no codes are stored, but it confirms that you've triggered the code-read.

Check it out and I'll stick around for at least another hour to see what you find.

Good luck!



Customer: replied 9 years ago.
I did it, but no codes. Just p-done. Thanks for the laugh on the diagnostic's crack. But it is late over here. I'll let you know if it's a cold start problem. I'll only be on for another 5 minutes. Take care we will be talking again soon. Thanks for everything you have done so far. You have been a great help and I trust you. I know we will get this done. Customer

Dang! Just be advised that the code read you just did is the same thing as most low-end scan tools. You can't pull information other than codes, but you just did the same thing without the added expense. Pretty cool feature!

Ok, totally understand the late-night thing. I'll get back with you later on. Try to avoid disconnecting your battery or running it down if all possible to retain info and Monitor functions if at all possible.

And by the way... that wasn't a crack. I'm confident that we'll get through this based on your observations, something that's rare and very welcome!

Talk later,


Customer: replied 9 years ago.
<p>Thanks Ed,</p><p> Drove the truck to work today. Seemed to have a little rough Idle sitting at a light. but that was only one time. It ran fine for the most part the rest of the way. Going home on the highway though she started to act up being unresponsive to giving it more gas. She started to bogg down and act as if shewas going to stall,but by the time I got over to the right lane she backfired once and then started to run smooth again. It is now 9PM here and just stopped raining. I haven't had anytime to check the spark you wanted me to look for. But I'm willing to hear some of your thoughts on what happened to me today. </p><p>Customer</p>

A slow loss of power (and intake backfire) like you saw most recently sounds quite a bit like a fuel pressure issue. I have another customer who had a similar complaint as yours, doing a very good job of simulating a fuel-starved engine and it turned out to be a PCM... something that took us a good amount of time to sort out. As I recall, it was a 2003 Dakota 3.9...


One of the things that helped us sort it out was setting a code on purpose in PCM memory, then checking to see if it was still there after a stalling event. When the code disappeared, it meant (in this case at least) that PCM memory had been erased because of intermittent controller failure. With no codes stored right now, I think that might be the next step.


I like to set a throttle position sensor (TPS) code because it can be done easily and instantly by just disconecting the sensor with the key on. You'll see a CHECK ENGINE lamp illumination after that and you should come up with a P0123 code when you do the code-read fire drill.


Check to be sure the code is still in memory if the CHECK ENGINE lamp goes out after a few days (should be retained) and then check again immediately after it acts up on you.


Your original observation that you had weak or no spark at all supports the possibility of the PCM being a player in this... maybe this test will help to sort it out.


While it doesn't happen on every truck (don't know why), the ABS may show a warning lamp illumination after one of these events if the PCM went nite-nite. When ABS can't confirm a VIN match between it and the engine controller, it sets a VIN MISMATCH code and turns the yellow and red warning lamps on. Let me know if you've seen something like this.


PCM failure isn't the only thing that can cause a loss of consciousness tho... lost power or ground feed to the controller or a short-to-ground of the 5v power feed to any of the major engine sensors (MAP, TPS, cam, crank, trans governor pressure sensor, A/C pressure transducer) will knock it out in a heartbeat, leaving no memory of the event. Your power ground connection for the PCM in this year is very near the controller itself, just to the (vehicle) rear and below the air cleaner body on the right wheel well. Give it (and the PCM) connectors a wiggle to see that they're in good shape. The PCM is just to the right of the air cleaner (3 connectors).


Last... information only. The PCM and catalytic converter are both covered under an extended federal emission warranty up to 80,000 miles and 8 years from its in-service date. If you're still under on both ranges, the PCM will be covered 100% if it's found to be bad. Try to avoid breaking the 80K barrier if you're on the edge right now because the Factory won't budge an inch on the miles.


Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Something happened in my mail that didn't prompt me to your last post so I just stumbled across it on the JA site. I'll try to keep an eye out from here on out.


Talk later,





Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Oh boy, Alright Ed you asked for this.I have all my invoices from the dealer. Turns out I was wrong on the dates.Back in april the truck went into the dealer with 62k miles and recieved truck D service where they replaced all wires,cap, rotor,plugs, all fluids, Trans w/ filter/ gasket, brake,power steering, engine oil,fuel injection service with throtttle body service. Why did I tell you this? Because it was after this service that things went down hill. It lost it's flick of the wrist start. I smelled gas through the vents and she had rough Idle. Then when I was backing up into a parking space the truck stalled. Then came the check engine light. Now it's May 29th back at dealer.(I wish I could just fax this invoice)it sez; 10 Replace TPS smoke test and replace purge solenoid codes- PO442 next line sez171 C 3.50 then below that is model numbers for the EGR solenoid but they called it solenoid- "duty cycle purge" and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I couldn't understand what one had to do with the other. Picked up the truck and noticed right away that it still wasn't the same. But I had no choice they were mad swamped with customers and I had to go myself. But I brought it backed right away. First time they tell me they found nothing. My blood pressure was starting to rise. But I was polite and asked them what did they do? The counter guy couldn't tell me. I refused to pick it up. The next day the guy calls me in the morning and sez We found it. We noticed on cold start up that at one point the fuel pressure dropped to zero. Replaced the fuel pump. But whacked me hard for the diagnostics and pump. This was back in june. All was fine. I got my flick of the wrist start back. I was happy. Now, there was a couple of times the truck ran a little rough but I would usually dismiss it as just some bad gas and try another gas station. UNTIL NOW! which brings us to the present. Which leaves me hear writing to you. I refuse to bring it to the dealer. Because they have rapped me every time I went there. And what kills me the most is that I could of done all the work myself. I simply did it for the convience factor for the limited time I have being a father and working long hours being sent out of state. As a matter of fact I have to go to Charlotte NC this Sunday. So tomorrow will be the only chance I get to work on my truck. But check this out. My friend Frank has a buddy that works at an STS. I'm going to meet him there and hopefully see what the heck is really going on with a full garage at our disposal And with the awesome advice you have given me.   How cool is that. If there was some way I can give you all the money I gave the dealer I would. TTYL. Customer

Knight.... you crack me up! I do feel your pain however and have another suggestion.


Since all this started after the plug wires were replaced, track the coil wire all the way from the coil to the distributor. If it doesn't make a turn and follow the INNER valve cover area, it may be coming in contact with the exhaust manifold, accounting for the wet weather problems. It doesn't take long for the coil wire to burn through on direct or intermittent contact and it might be the answer we've been looking for.


The loss of fuel system repair (fuel pump) seems to be an inconvenient coincidence. Even with fuel system flushing (performed at the injector rail) there should be no connection between the two. If the fuel pump was holding pressure as it should, no cleaner would find its way back to the pump. At worst, you had some leakage from the fuel system check valve (or regulator) in the pump module and the cleaner... cleaned it, making it worse. Bad part, regardless.


So check your coil wire or even better yet, load up a spray bottle with water and a tablespoon of dishwashing detergent and spray the entire secondary (high-tension) ignition system starting at the lower areas, leading to the top with the engine idling. If you hit a "leak" area, the spark will immediately follow the easier path the water/ detergent has provided and you'll have an instant answer. The ignition coil wire was originally routed inside the valve cover in this year so I didn't think it would be worth checking. But with parts replacement... who knows?


Hey, thanks for typing all that service info in! It's a pain but it sure helps me to know the vehicle (and you) a little better. Sorry this is taking so long and I'm having email problems it seems... your post STILL didn't come up on my alerts. Keep up the good work and we'll talk later.



Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Okay Ed, I really like the PCM theory. I have succesfully tripped the TPS and confirmed with code read drill. I really feel strongly about this being a player to my problem. But How do I convince the dealer that is the problem? They will want to see for themselves. Do I just give a punch list with your suggestions on it? They would probably think I'm some cocky prick.
On second note- All ignition wires routed properly. But the spray bottle idea you put in my head made me spray simple green in the engine compartment and give her a bath! It really needed it. So, Thanks for that Too!

Well... good! At least the time wasn't wasted. :o)


That's the trouble with a catastrophic failure of the PCM that fixes itself... not much left behind. The complete absence of previous memory is the first thing I look for, a little easier with the factory scan tool (DRB3). It records a restart count that keeps track all the way to its max of 255, so you can tell how long it's been around, counting the starts sometimes right back to the event.


Convincing the dealer might be an issue, like you figured. There's a certain amount of skepticism about anything a customer carries in with him, particularly something off the Internet. But once you've seen whether the code you set disappears or not, you'll have a bit more ammo to back up your story. Give them all the info, make sure it makes it to the repair order (writers are bad editors sometimes) and see if the tech can sort this out for you. I've searched for a marker that you can use to identify an intermittent failure of the PCM (besides lost memory) and can't come up with one. Sometimes the 5v feed to the major sensors drops out, sometimes not. Sometimes the 5v feed becomes a weak grounded circuit (through PCM), sometimes not. It's typically a hot engine/ been driven a while-type of problem with the JTEC though, a half-hour or better of good, hot underhood heat wash before it acts up.


Insulating the PCM from underhood heat might tell you something if it extends or "cures" stalling. Use an ice pack right against the controller, followed by layer upon layer of towels or bubble wrap, tucked in tight enough to prevent most air circulation past the unit. The JTEC seems to repond favorably to this kind of treatment, where the type used in Caravan (SBEC3) doesn't seem to care much.


Good luck and keep me updated!



Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Hmmm, the Truck "usually" runs better when warmed up. I use the term loosely because it doesn't seem for the most part to discriminate. And get this. Aside from some slight rough idle for the most part the truck hasn't been stalling. (lately) Investigating the 5v feed now. Thanks again Ed!
This is driving me crazy where she runs fine to what the Hell is going on here!
I'll be back Customer
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
No significant voltage drops. We will have to wait till she acts up again. Recorded 5.19v on my meter. Check engine light is still on. I,m afraid it will be atleast a few days till we can talk because I wont be around to even drive the truck. Take care, Customer

No problem. Whenever you get the time is fine by me. 5.19v is just about dead-nuts right for the 5v feed on the JTEC, so you're getting good readings. If you can manage to tap into a 5v feed and drive with it with the meter inside the truck it will probably come in handy. The slow dying nature of your truck might show up in a slowly degrading 5v signal.. but maybe not.


You might do a resistance to ground check of the 5v circuit while it's healthy for comparative purposes. The 2K scale works best for this and check it with the key off.


Have a great weekend,


Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Hi Ed,
Just keeping you posted that i didn't forget about ya. The truck has been running fine lately. It stalled when I was backing up and turning the wheel sharp. But that hasn't happened for a while now. It's at the point where I'm starting to have more confidence in the engine. Maybe I can drive with the radio on again!
Checked the PCM with code read drill and found PO123. Did this yesterday. I was like damnit! But with the truck running fine now I guess it was expected that the TPS code would still be there. Ground theory was good too! And at this end of the ball game what do we have left to check? I checked to see if the PCM was loose and all of the connectors. They passed the wiggle test. Another buddy of mine suggeted that it may be a crank sensor. but with the truck running fine lately I'd have to rule that one out. Another suggestion was fuel regulator/check valve. I currently don't know where it's located. Earlier posts from you would lead me to believe that it was already replaced w/ fuel pump. Other cars I have seen have it near the throtle body/intake manifold.
You'll have to share the 2K ground test theory a little more. At what points would I be checking? Are we looking for infinite resistance? 00 Are we lookin for 2k or better? Should i bother with the truck currently deciding to run fine?
Wacha think?

That stall when turning the wheel is something that can happen when your truck hasn't been retrofitted with a power steering pressure switch, a TSB update. With no advance warning to the PCM about power steering system load, it can cause idle variances and even kill it if it catches it off guard. No biggie.


You're right about the regulator, it was replaced with the pump unit. This type of fuel system is called returness since there is no return line from the fuel rail back to the tank. Return-type systems have one disadvantage over your type... they shuttle engine and exhaust heat back to the tank, something that can cause vapor lock eventually in severe circumstances. Evaporative fuel control gets a bit tougher with hot fuel trying to evaporate as well.


Your buddy might be right about the crank sensor, but there just isn't enough evidence to go one way or the other right now. A backfire like you mentioned earlier could be consistent with a random crank signal that happened at the wrong time. Crank sensors also use the 5v feed and can short the circuit to ground, taking the PCM down with it. It's not common at all on the 3.9 engine (unlike the 4.7) to see this happen, so it wouldn't be my first choice.


The resistance test I mentioned is one that would check the 5v circuit at any underhood location to ground. You're going to have some natural grounding of the circuit as the 5v passes through sensors on the way back to the PCM, so the first reading should be on a day when the truck is running fine to get a baseline reading. You'll need to use the 2K scale to get a good reading (it will be more than 200 ohms, less than 20K). I don't recall what the reading will be but it seems like somewhere in the 500 ohm is about right. Check it with the key off and the key on. I'm not sure if you'll get a reading with it on, but try it anyway.

Then when it takes a dump again, check the resistance in the same way if the 5v feed has dropped (should be steady 5.19v). If the 5v is still good, no testing of the circuit is needed. We're looking for the reason the 5v dropped, so if the circuit resistance is lower, go around and start disconnecting sensors until the 5v comes back up or you run out of sensors. The problem may be something within the PCM or out on the truck... hard telling until it lays down again.



Customer: replied 9 years ago.
<p>Thank You again my friend! You have been a huuuuuuuuuge help to me. Please be patient with me. But I'm going away again. About 10 days. When I return I will definetly get on those resistance reading. You get another break from this nightmare. In the mean time Take care of yourself. I still need you. </p><p>Technical Service Bulletin- How old is this report? Power steering pressure switch. Dealer item only or can I get one at the local auto parrts store?</p>

Thanks! I surely appreciate it!


The bulletin I mentioned was TSB 18-015-04. The repair involves replacing the power steering hi-pressure line with a revised unit that carries a pressure switch, installing an overlay harness that connects it to the PCM and then a software update to the PCM that will alert it to the new sensor. These are (obviously) things that you wouldn't be able to do at home and figure something around $350 for the update. If occasional steering inputs that kill the engine don't matter THAT much to you... I'd sure understand!


Have a great trip and I'll expect that you'll bring me something! :o]


Later, mare.


Customer: replied 9 years ago.
What do you get a engine ASE Master with L1 Certs?!
I hear margaritaville is the place to go.
I'll be back! Thanks again Ed Customer

I dunno.... wet cats usually make me happy. As long as they don't stay that is...



Customer: replied 8 years ago.
<p>Hey Ed! I'm back. Truck acted up again. Started to bogg down and nearly stall. Stomping and holding down the gas pedal seamed to remedy the problem long eough for me to continue driving. But this time the check engine light came on. Checked it when I arrived at work with the code read drill and this time it spewed out a P0132. After doing on online search found this to be a high voltage short to bank 1 O2 sensor. Going home it acted up again nearly stalling. Put the hammer down let her back fire a little, keep on driving. The engine light went out the next morning. Went through code read drill. P-done!! Ok, its PCM failure. I found a local auto wrecker joint who said he had a working PCM from a 2002 sxt Dakota. He wanted the pcm nuberwhich is in my truck 56028719AA. The only difference in his was it ended in AB. I asked him if my vin # XXXXX to be programmed to it and he said no. I remembered you tellin me about the PCM matching #'s with ABS. Weeell I swapped out the PCM with slightly used new one. Not only did it not fix my problem but now I have my ABS light on (flashing) with beeping going on the whole freakin time! I figured I'd put my old PCM back in the truck and it would go away. Wrong! Tried Battery disconnect. Still there! Checked connections, All tight. Checked all the pins On PCM to seee if maybe one got bent or removed from sticking to connector. Nope! All good. So, is there a reset I can do. will this work itself out. Should I start shopping for new ABS module? Currently disconnected ABS to keep sanity from beeping, but of course the ABS light is on solid. But I can live with that And drive it if I have to.</p><p>Customer</p>
Wow... You have all the luck!

This sounds like a new problem with the P0132 and is usually just a bad sensor. Coding for high voltage on the circuit is its way of telling us that the internal heater is dying and it's not coming up to temperature.

The high voltage is then misinterpreted as a rich mixture and the PCM starts taking fuel away. It won't completely die out, but gets pretty... soft.

Going to wide open throttle is a great way to bypass a bad UPSTREAM 02 sensor. The PCM doesn't look at the 02 signal at WOT, so it can't be affected.

And when it somewhat cleared up by itself... that totally fits the mold. You need a bank 1 UP02. It will be located in either the y-pipe exhaust connection between the two banks or in the left side exhaust stream just down from the manifold, depending whether your system uses 2 or 4 oxygen sensors.

The PCM... sounds like aCustomerLOL! Yes, it does need to match the vehicle's VIN or you will have an ABS lamp on like you're seeing. I can't account for the beeping though! This is news to me.

Regardless, you'll need to see the dealer now. But I have info that may help you out! I know how to re-write the VIN in your new AB engine controller.

Have the tech go into ENGINE with the DRB3, push right arrow to get to MISC as you always would to install a VIN. Select option 4 (READ VIN) and when the display comes up, push PAGE FORWARD. This allows a re-write.   Install VIN, push PAGE BACK, then install vehicle miles.

After that, it's off to ABS. It may only require erasure of the VIN mismatch code, but my guess is the electronic pinion factor was lost somehow. That's the only reason I can imagine for the flashing yellow ABS lamp... it's no longer initialized. Once the pinion factor is installed, erase ABS codes and you should be done.

The AA- AB thing MIGHT bite you in the butt. Remember the P/S switch update for your earlier stalling? This version probably carries the software, which will now be looking for an eventual power steering switch state change, one that will never happen without installing the TSB update stuff.

Going back to the original PCM will solve that, but the ABS still needs to be re-initialized I think. Probably best to print off at least this last post for reference... Let me know how it goes Knight! If you're in the Denver area, let me know!

Dodgerench and 5 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
<p>I wish I was in Denver ! It's not easy being a Bronco fan in the The New York area. I remember a couple years back just nearly missing an "altercation" with a bunch 0f drunk Jet fans.BTW</p><p> I did go back to the original PCM with no fix for ABS flashing and Beeping. Should I keep the SXT PCM? Will I get more ponies? Or is the SXT just interior / exterior bells and whistles?</p><p>I did replace the O2 sensor which is located before the Cat. Not easy to get to the plug located high up on trans. Also had some fun with plug not matching the male end. Turns out ther is three ribs that the plug slides into, one side is offset. I didn't notice when I bought the Bosch plug at local store that one side was different! I saw the left side and bottom match and didn't roll it over to see the otherside. So, trying to plug this thing in by feel alone was kickin my ass till I finally pulled the whole thing out and matched it to the old one. Well store is close know what to do? Cut old plug connector off install to new O2 sensor. I did a professional job too. Used butt connectors and heat shrink tubing to prevent moisture getting in. Wire colors matched the same except for 2 white wires. Multimeter suggested they were merely looped. (continuity tested) Also, I would like to add that I noticed that I have a second 02 sensor just after the cat with a much easier to reach plug. But with my luck I knew that it would be the difficult one. Plus bank 1 tells me first plug. Or thats how I interpeted it. I guess i should get these plugs from the dealer cause the other plug has a different fem/male head too? Oh, boy You know I don't like taking it to my dealer. I always walk out of there feeling anally violated. ooooo nooooooooo <img src="/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-surprised.gif" border="0" alt="Surprised" title="Surprised" width="18" height="18" /></p>
Hey, it's not easy being a Bronco fan in Denver these days! They're always an adventure...

The two PCMs should have identical outputs, horsepower-wise. I'd just go with the original for now, save the other one for a rainy day.

Cutting the 02 sensor wires isn't generally advised, but it looks like you did it in a way that it will still work OK. This is one place where soldering the connections inside the shrink tube would have gotten you in trouble. But as long as the light stays out, you should be OK.

Thanks again, Knight! It's always good working with you. Too bad your emoticon got turned to code... the site is pretty bad for that right now. You wouldn't believe the number of times lately I've sent an answer, looked at the gibberish that SHOULD have been a nicely-formatted reply and went..

Ooooooo noooooooooooo!

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Quote:it's not easy being a Bronco fan in Denver these days! LOL, Do you like our chances against hot-lanta next week? No running backs, linebackers,safeties, or corners! Ooo nooo!!Take care Ed. And Thanks for the enormous help you have been.
ps. I think I will replace the second O2 sensor as well. I dont know what significance this has but the resistance reading on both O2 sensors was 4.5ohms the one I replaced was 4.7ohms. The new one was about 3.5ohms. Lets see what happens tomorow. I'll be in touch. Customer
<p>Wo. I hadn't looked that far ahead.   Man, the defense is really sad. Cutler thinks he can thread the needle any time anywhere... but it's been scary so far. I used to love it when Elway reared back and threw! Cutler just needs time to sort things out, but he's got the arm for sure.</p><p> </p><p>Since you're familiar with the Broncs... A week ago Champ Bailey and a linebacker (name escapes me) rolled into the dealership and bought a Challenger apiece. Hard to believe a guy that big could load himself into a Lambo!   I probably should've run up front and copped a pic, but didn't do it. I left Elway alone when he got his first edition Viper, too. I miss all the fun.</p><p> </p><p>Don't sweat the DS02 too much. It's used almost exclusively for catalyst efficiency monitoring, has almost nothing to do with vehicle driveability in most cases. If it's not coding, I'd just leave it. But don't mix sensors. Use the Bosch for downstream as well, the possibility of a signal mismatch will be minimized that way.</p>
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Aaah man! The new challengers are sweeeeet. Maybe I should trade the truck in for the challenger:) But I love my 4x4 when camping or visiting friends in The Pennsylvania Mtns. I wish I could have both! I wish I could of met John Elway too. Atleast I got to see him play the Giants before he retired. (unfortunately we lost that game) But won the super bowl!! I miss guys like Atwater, Mecklenberg, Mobley, Lynch. Romonowski before he turned into a crying Raider traitor. But I think the league wont let us win anymore for the infamous Ed Hocules call when we beat San Diego. We get (phantom) Offensive pass interference calls on marshall during fish game. Dumervill is held every down. No call.evry near goal line stance will be under review. And you can bet it will be against us. But basically I think/hope Jay will get better over time. He's too cocky forcing to Marshall,but when scheffler gets better, Brandon Stockley, and any running back gets healthy we wont be so one dimensional.
Thanks for the info again Ed!
I'll be in touch.
Take 'er easy bud. It's a long season and we still haven't seen our first snow!

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Cheers XXXXX XXXXX! Customersigning out
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Hey Ed, Guess what? Since I repaced the O2 sensor the truck has been operating fine. Even seems to run quiter. Aside from the ABS light flashing and beeping. But turning the radio up works till I can get the truck into a shop. I want to try another dealer other than the one I have been taking it to. I really hope that did the trick. Keep your fingers crossed and knock on wood. And if I ever do make it to Denver and You know someone with Bronco tickets were Tailgating! Customer
K... You are by far my favorite East Coast Bronco fan! Always good to hear from you... and when it's good news ALL THE BETTER. Woohooo!

I don't know if it will help you or not, but try disconnecting the ABS if you feel comfortable with driving without it. Chances are VERY good that it's not operational anyway, so this might allow you to take some load off the speakers.

You'll find the ABS module near the left hinge support. I'd be interested to see what happens. I'm not familiar with beeping with the flashing!

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Oooooooooo, I tried that already! I have learned something that could be .......EVIL! The speedometer dosen't work and therefore no miles were recorded either on my way to work. Sooo, I had to decide. my job sometimes requires to use my own vehicle. I'am an Audio Visual technician by trade.But all through High School and even earlier I have tinkered on cars and even did Auto Body for 5 years. But I got into it because I wanted to do customizing. The sad reallity was it was all collision work/ theft recoveries. And the pay wasn't exactly as hopped for. But Iam very familiar of the operations of the automotive trade and how everything is about time and beating the clock to make a profit. But unlike auto mechanics the insurance companies interfere with structural integrity and pay, which is totally 10 years behind choking the life out of the small shop owners. With impending doom looking ahead I changed career fields hoping to do better. So far I'm doin alright. Knock on wood again! Customer
LMAO!   Knight, you totally understand the business AND the ABS stuff. I missed it, glad you brought it up.. Without ABS function, you have no speedo, no odo... just not good. Thanks!

You made a good move all those years ago. The automotive industry sucks beyond belief but I'm stuck in it until the BIG DAY. No matter, it's really my only talent and has paid the bills (for the most part).

Your new job should show nothing but growth as time goes on, whether oil is at $40 or $140 a barrel. I just saw my first 09 Dodge Ram today.. HOLY SH*t.

I'm not sure who they're building this thing for, but it sure isn't for truck owners. Smooth... comfy.... entertaining...

A FIVE-FOOT BOX! Weak-#ss coil springs? I'm talking something that wouldn't hold my V8 Vega off the ground!

Very pretty, probably rides great. $51,000.

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
WOW! You have a Vega! You probably would of loved this guy that had a lifted monster Vega! Reminds me of happier times indeed.
I saw the commercials for the new Ram "challenge" The suspension looked beefy. Maybe because I have a wide screen? Doh! It's classic typical people. I worked with this guy who claimed his brother had a Dodge Viper and hated it. He said it was too bumpy on the road and it would squeek or rattle in places. I yelled at the guy. What did he expect he bought a RACING CAR! Tell your brother to get a [email protected]%#n Lexus if he wants a smooth ride and some pick up. Same thing with Trucks people will buy trucks and complain that it rides like a Truck?! Duh!? Buy a car next time. People. But back to the Ram it does look totally sweet too. Has the internet too I hear? 51,000 probably about right. we'll see. I hope Dodge isn't making a mistake with bigger cab smaller bed. My 5 foot bed pisses me off but still had enough room to carry my Polaris 400 (with the tail gate down). Had to sell it though :(
Well you definetly know your your shiat Ed. I think you'll come out on top too. Eventually you'll run the shop or have your own. Thats what I was hoping for when I started. But thats another long story. Customer
Sadly, the Vega died years ago, the product of someone crossing through a break in traffic in front of me. It was a 73 wagon, looked stock as stink (woodie too!) with a 283 bored out .080 over, ported heads, line-bored block and balanced innards. It ran WAY better than it had a right to, considering the stock cam and single exhaust, but I could smoke just about anything on the road that the skinny-ass tires would allow traction. Great commuter car!

Ugh. Vipers. I got sucked into the Viper thing back in 95... regretted it to this day. Like you said, they're friggin race cars but the customers who plunked down $85K didn't see it that way. Chrysler had an attitude that anything the Viper customer wanted... they'd get. With me in the middle.

Just bad, what can I say?

The new truck might be a hit, but it's gotta be more affordable than this unit. Very pretty, but it's hard to sell cheap-ass Dodges these days, let alone this one. It was getting internet installed as I left tonight by the way LOL!
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
<p>Aaaaa, so Ed was doin alittle street racing eeeh? Very cool. My love was my 72 Grand Prix. With Formula 400 4 barrel. Hooker Headers straight pipes dual exhaust ( the cops loved me) Street performer Manifold. Had a nice place to drag in this area till they built more strip malls and more people moved here. I kinda blew that Motor up redlinning it. Still have dreams of that sound of the secondaries kickin in right before it would wheelie. Had the SS Cragars all around. 50's in the back. Very wicked car. Used one of the blown pistons as an ash tray. It was cool back then. Yeah I see your point on people dumping that kind of cash on the Viper and expecting the Lexus ride. It's something I wouldn't know. I can just imagination those kind off customers demands too. i bet you had fun? Not! They probably wanted everything and for free too. I have met my fair share myself. I remember completlyrepainting a Porsche 930 (looks like 911 turbo) for a scratch that could have been buffed out. But i was told the dealer wants it painted and paint it got. What a waste.Take care Ed, Gotta go. work tomorrow, Later bud.</p><p>Customer</p>