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RIP, Lead Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 5591
Experience:  ASE Certified Master Technician, L1 Adv Level, Ca Smog License, Chrysler Aftermarket Training.
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1996 dodge ram 1500: you accelerate..stall..stay running..untill

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I bought a 1996 dodge ram 1500. The truck will idle when it is first started but when you accelerate and let off the fuel the truck stall's. Sometimes when I first try to start the truck it will not start and stay running untill I give it fuel. If You could please get back with me about this problem...thanx

Hi, welcome to jA.

  • How many miles are on your Dodge?
  • Has the check engine lamp illuminated since?
  • What is the engine size?


Customer: replied 10 years ago.
Reply to RIP's Post: My dodge has 230k, it is a 5.2L, and the check engine light has not come on. Also I have changed the throttle position sensor, ran injector cleaner and octane boost in the fuel system, and put in platinum spark plugs. Please e-mail anymore questions, thanks.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like you have a typical IAC (Idle Air Control) valve failure. The IAC controls the engine idle at all times, dependant on the engine computer's inputs. Typically, the valve becomes gummed from carbon and will stick in the open position on a cold start, this allows too much air to enter the engine's intake and thus the engine keeps stalling. In most cases, giving the engine throttle, will help allow it to run. Now, at this milage the valve most likely has been replaced at least once, if not; it becomes even more of a suspect. The valve is correctly tested thru the factory scan tool; but I would like you to attempt cleaning it and the IAC ports in the throtle body. Purchase some throtlr body cleaner from your local parts supplier, remove the valve and spray down the ports as well as the valve itself - keeping cleaner out of the electrical connector area. Technically these valves are not cleanable, and are to be replaced according to factory porocedures, however I have had luck cleaning them in mild failures such as yours, even if the symptoms change at least we'll know if the cleaning the valve caused them to change. Also, try using an old toothbrush to scrub the IAC ports, and the throtle body, gently. Below is an illustration of the location of the IAC valve. After the cleaning, remove the negative battery cable for aboout 30 seconds, and than reinstall it, this is to reset the fuel trim and idle strategy to default. Upon starting up after the cleaning, hold the gas pedal to the floor to help clear the cleaner added to the throtle body.






Customer: replied 10 years ago.
Reply to RIP's Post: I'm in the process of trying the idea right now. I ordered the part, and have received it today, and on monday I will fit the part. My truck is at the garage for this reason and they could not figure it out. By the time the part came in today the garage was closed, so I cannot check if the idea was helpful. If this cures the problem, I will gladly pay twice as much, being as a garage that has the actual truck in their hands can't even figure it out.

No problem...take the time you need. Also, remember to have them clean the IAC ports and the throlte body to help prevent the new one from gumming up. Thanks,


RIP and other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 10 years ago.
Reply to RIP's Post: I got the garage to change the part, I bought the part, because it was cheaper than ordering it through him, I showed him where the part was on the truck, he said it was very simple to change, and he would make me a deal. So, after chiseling me for $110.00 for about 30min work, he said it was necessary for a garage to do it so it could be set "with the computer". I asked him if he disconnected the battery, he said no it was not necessary, the problem remained. When I got home, I unplugged the battery for about 20 mins and the problem dissappeared. The part was clogged jet black with carbon. I took it for a spin today for about 30 mins and it ran like a new vechicle. Your help has saved me hours of testing, the garage diagnostic translated to needing new plugs, spark plugs, spark plug wires, map sensor, possibly new injectors or maybe just a cleaning, and the list goes on and on, all the parts known to man kind were on there except the part you recommended. Their price just to begin was $1200.00 and that was to start. If there is a place where I can send a reply to extend my gratitude please tell me.

I'm glad everything worked out, be sure you have the throtle body and blade cleaned, otherwise the carbon will choke up the new valve. You should set the idle thru the factory scan tool, but I haven't had a problem disconnecting the battery, or disconnecting the battery and touching the two cables together - both manual PCM reset methods. Please accept the post if this has been helpful, feedback is appreciated. Any comments, or problems can always be sent to [email protected]

. Thanks,



Customer: replied 10 years ago.
Reply to RIP's Post: The throttle body, just spray cleaner in the top? Is that where the blades are?

I did accept and also paid twice the amount, Under the term "bonus", just like I said. I really appreciate the help.

Yes, use an old toothbrush to gently scrub down the blade as well, and the throtle bore. It's a simple procedure, which can go a long way for the performance. Use the cleaner sparingly, so you don't flood the intake with cleaner, you can do the cleaning in sections and run the engine in between to help burn the cleaner as you go. Also, when you first fire the engine after each cleaning, put the gas to the floor, this clears the 'flooding' of the cleaner, before she fires. Let me know if you need any help during the procedure. A clean throtle body will make a big difference.