I have a deere 350 gas dozer that will not start. i can get it to run with ether but will not stay running. the fuel

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Customer: i have a john deere 350 gas dozer that will not start. i can get it to run with ether but will not stay running. the fuel pump seems to be working. i have taken the carburetor off a few times and cleaned and blown it out with no luck. any ideas?
JA: What is the complete model and serial number of your machine?
Customer: john deere 350 gas dozer. that's all i know right now
JA: Is there anything else the Equipment Mechanic should know before I connect you? Rest assured that they'll be able to help you.
Customer: no
Answered by MitchellF415 in 3 hours 1 year ago
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MitchellF415
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78 satisfied customers

Specialities include: Auto Body Technician, Heavy Equipment Repairs, Heavy Duty Engine Repairs, Brake and Transmission Repairs

Hi my names Mitchell and I'm a HD mechanic. I hope I can help you figure out this issue with your dozer.
the engine obviously isn't getting any fuel. When you took the carb off did you just quickly blow it out or did you dissasemble and clean the carb? The needle and float bowl need to be cleaned out and the jet should also be cleaned. Is there an accelerator pump circuit on this carb?
Customer
Hi. Yes when I took the carb off I took it apart. Removed the bowel, float and air needle. Then I blew all of the jet ports out along with the needle seat. I am not sure what you mean by an accelerator pump? There is a fuel pump which I checked when the carb was off. I turned the key on and there was a good flow of gas coming out of the gas line. Even without the pump running the gas flows out of the line.
Oh sorry on some carbs there's a little plunger that when you give it full throttle it physically squirts a bit more fuel into the barrel to get the engine up to speed quicker. You'd know it has it because when you move the throttle linkage it would feel like it's moving a diaphragm.
When you took the carb apart was there fuel in the bowl? Just trying to make sure you have fuel actually making it into the carb. Check the foat for cracks or if it's taking on fuel inside and not functioning properly. Up behind the jet there is sometimes an emulsion tube that can also get plugged. I would physically remove the jet and tube and shine light through that to see if there's anything plugging it.
Inside the barrel of the carb on either side of the the butterfly valve for the throttle plate there is some tiny holes that should be cleared as well. Brake clean and compressed air works well. One more thing to check is your choke circuit and linkage. Hook the carb up and remove the float bowl. Fuel should flow until you lift up the float thats hanging down.
Carbs are fairly simple things I've found that 90% of the time it's just a matter of clearing all the tiny little passages. If fuel is making it into the bowl the vacuum of the engine should pull it up through the immulsion tube and out the jet and the surrounding tiny ports to keep a steady idle.
I hope this info has helped
Feel free to ask any more questions.
Customer
Ok great thank you. I don't think there is a plunger. Yes when I take the carb off the bowl it is full of fuel. It is the original marvel carb TX898 that came on the late 60's dozer. Do you think I should replace the carb or just strip it, soak in Muriatic acid and install a new kit?
I would say it depends on how heavily you rely on the dozer. If there is a replacement carb avalible and it's not an arm and a leg that's what I would go with. Beats fiddling with the carb and possibly not even the acid can help sometimes. Sometimes if a carb sits long enough condensation and rotting gas can eat away at the internals of a carb.
Customer
Great thank you. When you buy a replacement carb does it come with all of the inside stuff, float and needles.? A cheap replacement is around $250USD and a more expensive, probably better built, is around $450USD. A kit is around $170USD.
they are all pre assembled. Pretty much bolt on. Hook up your fuel and go. You may have to fine tune the idle but it's set within the ballpark and then it's just a matter of adjusting the idle adjustment screw. If it was me and the machine was how I made a living I would get the 450 one. But if you use it intermittently I would go with the 250 one. Like I said there's really not a lot to them it's just cast metal and gaskets. For the price difference I would deffinatly buy new though. 170 for a kit is alot when a new one is 250.
Customer
Great thanks
No problem! Glad I could help!
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