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2013 Volvo Mct85c GEO085TVLC1644683

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Skid steer 2013 Volvo MCT85C. I bought this machine used and had a blown head gasket. Turns out it was a cracked head. Took a month to get a replacement. Put the new head in, adjust the valves, fix a leak in the return fuel rail and try to start. Nothing, I can hear the fuel pump come on and it continues to run (don’t remember if that is normal) but the starter never turns. Look on display and it has thrown a C148 code.
Look online and find that is a oil pressure switch, buy and install oil switch 17230401. Still have same code. Any ideas?
Answered in 17 hours by:
4/10/2018
Mechanic: Jeremy, Technician replied 4 years ago
Jeremy
Jeremy, Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 4,370
Experience: ASE Medium/Heavy Duty Technician, Hydraulics, Brakes, Electrical Certified
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Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 4 years ago
Dan
Dan, Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 15,129
Experience: 17+ yrs. shop and field experience with all major brands of heavy equipment and trucks - 1995 WyoTech graduate.
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Hi my name is***** saw this earlier this morning but saw that you were asking for another professional. I see this again on the board but also that he hasn't logged in to help. I also worked for two Volvo dealers. One of which was CN wood and the other was Chadwick BaRoss in New England. After that I worked for Deere and Caterpillar. Anyway I see that you've already replaced the oil pressure switch. That fault code is for a short circuit detected in the oil pressure switch circuit when the engine is not running. If the new sensor or switch did not correct your problem you will need to check the wiring harness between the ECU and the sensor for shorts or damaged. Using your own meter do a continuity check to ground and to the other circuits for a potential short. Reply back with the results and let me know if we need to dig deeper into this.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Where is the ecu and which terminals? The wire leaves the sensor and enters a loom that enters another loom and goes below the hydraulic pump. There is not enough room for me to get my hands in there and feel what goes where. There are two computers under the cab and a bundle of wires going in the cab as well.
Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 4 years ago

Let me see what I have for schematics on this model and follow up later.

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Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 4 years ago
Thanks for the update. I'm on the road Mobile today but did not find your schematics in my files for this model unfortunately. I did run across some pdf service manuals available on the web I'm doing a search in PDF for download.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Thanks, ***** ***** me know what you find out. I will be out most of today running errands.
Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 4 years ago
The safety interlock switches and wiring are what I would investigate first as well as be sure to test all your fuses and relays. Test your fuses for power on both sides with the ignition on. Replace any fuses with power only on one side. The safety interlock switches consist of your seat switch, lab bar seat belt switch, and door switch if equipped with the enclosed cab option.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Had a chance this morning and all fuses are good. There is no door or seatbelt switch. Lapbar and arm have never inhibited starting, only motion. Just to be sure I was in the seat with the bar and arm down and buckled, still nothing. Can’t find anything amiss and no active faults showing up
Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 4 years ago
Thanks for the update. I just want for the confirmation if this is a no crank no start or a crank no start condition? If no crank no start there are three relays on a bracket in the left rear of the engine bay the middle larger one is the glow plug relay which would be unrelated but that is for your preheat and then a bit lower to the right is the AC relay which is the smaller one that is lower than the other two. All the way to the left is your starter relay. Check to see if you have power there and went in the cranking position see if you have power to the small s terminal at the starter but no response from the starter. If this is the case then it would be a failed starter solenoid if the battery and terminal connections are good. If there is no power to the small signal s terminal at the starter then you will want to test for power in and out of that relay that I just mentioned on the left hand side and if there is power to it but the relay won't switch try manually engaging or jumping that relay to see if it will then crank over. Also behind the operator seat there will be a cover for a relay panel. On the top row the first two are ignition relays going from left to right and on the last row there are two optional ignition relays for the windshield washer and your h v a c system.There should also be an inline fuse near the ear cleaner snout tied into the wiring harness on the positive battery terminal however I don't believe that one would be related to this problem where that supplies power to your attachments.Now all of your fuses I would be sure that there are power on both sides because in the fuse panel you have your ECU fuses which there are two of those both 20 amp fuses in position B4 and A6
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
I have the prosis discs and there is some info. Hard software to navigate as it is incredibly slow. Anyhow found the fault codes and am attaching a picture
Looks like C 148 can be one of two faults. Any idea wher that solenoid is?
Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Also. It is a no crank no start
That relay is not closing and jumpering it does engage the starter and turn over the motor
Removing and reading the wires does not look possible without tearing something up. No slack.
Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Would the scan tool tell a tech more specific information as to why it won’t start? I will suck it up and call one if you think it will be the best course of action
Customer reply replied 4 years ago
There was power on both sides of all the fuses. In the engine bay as well as the cab
Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 4 years ago
Thanks for the update.... I see their looks like some corrosion in there as well which I do recommend even if unrelated to this problem at some point it would be a good idea to clean up all those contacts and put some Dielectric grease on everything because there may be another corroded terminal causing your problem or potentially a failed component or wiring. Yes with that information I do recommend having the machine plugged in just in case there are some software-related issues that need to be addressed as well.
Dan
Dan, Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 15,129
Experience: 17+ yrs. shop and field experience with all major brands of heavy equipment and trucks - 1995 WyoTech graduate.
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