Construction and Road Equipment
I have a Deere 323D tracked Skid Steer. It has 823 hours on it. Any time of the day, if it hasn't been running for a
It blows a little black smoke while cranking then after 20 -30 seconds it will start. It runs really slow and it wont throttle up for a bit then it runs faster and everything is fine. It runs perfectly, shutting down and restarting all day. There are some
old codes stored that I don't think are relevant but there is one code that has come up recently which is ECU 920.05, Alarm output out of range low. The machine has relatively low hours and except for the starting issue, it runs great. I have: 1. Replaced
all the rubber fuel lines and tested for leaks. 2. Replaced the check valve on the head that holds pressure in the fuel rail. (pumps and injection nozzles are under the valve cover) 3. I have checked the glow plug circuit and everything checks out. It's still
warm here in Tucson so they rarely come on. 4. Inspected all the fuel lines and wiring under the valve cover. 5. Replaced the o-rings on the number 4 injection nozzle. I also noticed that there is a lot of soot build up in the number 4 intake port under the
valve cover. All the others are spotless. Thank You
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Hi my name is***** will be glad to try to help. What is the machine serial number?
Thanks for the info.... What are all the codes you have logged in the ECU?
652.05
653.05###-##-####09
522826.05
These codes were after I tested the glow plug circuit
110.03
105.03
171.03
920.05
The code that its throwing now, often is 920.05
Thanks for the info. Let me check on these codes so it will give a bigger picture for diagnosis.
ECU 000107.00 Engine Air Filter Restricted
ECU 000651.05 These are all engine fuel injection system codes.
ECU 000651.06
ECU 000651.07
ECU 000652.02
ECU 000652.05
ECU 000652.06
ECU 000652.07
ECU 000652.13
ECU 000653.02
ECU 000653.05
ECU 000653.06
ECU 000653.07
ECU 000653.13
ECU 000654.02
ECU 000654.05
ECU 000654.06
ECU 000654.07
ECU 000654.13
ECU 000655.02
ECU 000655.05
ECU 000655.06
ECU 000655.07
ECU 000655.13
ECU 000656.02
ECU 000656.05
ECU 000656.06
ECU 000656.07
ECU 000656.13
Hydraulic Oil Filter Restriction Switch
1713
0
Service alert
Hydraulic oil filter is restricted.
ECU 000110.03
ECU 000110.04 Engine System Engine Coolant Temperature Input Voltage Problem.
ECU 000105.03
ECU 000105.04 Engine System Intake Air Temperature Input Voltage Problem.
Cab inlet air temperature sensor output
CAB 171.03
Warning
Heating, Ventilating and Air
is out of range - greater than 4.93 VDC
There is no cab on this machine.
Thanks for your help with this Dan.
Thanks for the update.... I have a large list of codes and still hunting down the 920.05. It is not fluent in my lists.... I will continue to hunt that one down
Yes all the others lead to a harness or ECU issue and likely from when the connectors were disconnected during troubleshooting
920.05 is low power engagement to EMU- short to power or open circuit.Test your battery with a digital tester for possible dead cells etc, check, clean and tighten all battery to starter connections including all grounds. Check all fuses,relays, harness and connectors for good pin connections or corrosion and damage/shorted wiring, etc. check the connector pins going to the EMU/ECU and check for power and ground to the EMU/ECU connector. Look at all wire clamps for any that may have rubbed through the harness. Let me know
I just checked my files and all I have is the service book for the 326D and up but the electrical section is missing unfortunately. I do know the most of the local dealers are willing to print out a page or two of schematic sections before asking you to purchase the manual. Try contacting them and ask them for the pin outs and any test info they can help you with. Let me know if they will not help and I will see what I can do on my end.
Hopefully that was the cause of the 920.05 code.
I have the valve cover off right now as I wanted to do a compression test on the #4 cylinder because of all the soot and sludge on the intake port. That cylinder reads 100 psi. I also checked #3 for comparison and got the same result.
Before I put the valve cover back on, is there something else I can try??
Hi Todd, Thanks for the update. I would be sure that the injector harness and connectors check out good and there are no bare wiring or loose connections. Also using an OHM meter, check the resistance of the injector coils for comparative readings between the cylinders to see if maybe one is far our of line than the others. If so I would replace the injector or injectors. Let me know
100 PSI in all cylinders? Most diesel engines will show 400PSI and up
Ok, On the front timing cover and also on the rear of the block near the starter there are two magnetic pickup sensors( speed sensors). Check the harness for problems and also for a faulty sensor as if either of the sensors are bad the ECM will not read RPM/timing and not know to fire the injectors disabling injection
Yes they are magnetic pickup sensors.... I do not have the specific OHM values you should be seeing on these ones unfortunately but check both and also check the sensor tips after removal for any damage.
I removed and checked both speed sensors. I don't know the specs for testing but the resistance in one was a little higher than the other. These are inexpensive and in stock so I am going to replace both tomorrow. I don't like just replacing parts in hope to fix the problem but without knowing the specs for the sensors, I don't have a lot of choice here. I also inspected the wiring and connectors which were all good with no sign of wear.
I was able to get a more accurate compression reading and all cylinders were between 350- and 420 psi. The number 4 cylinder was a little lower than the rest but I don't think it was enough to cause the sludge and soot that I'm seeing in the intake port.
I'm running out of ideas here so any help you can give would be appreciated. I sure hope it's not one of the injector pumps. They are over $600.00 for a rebuilt one!
Thanks for your help
Thanks for the update. Were most close to 420 and 4 was at 350? Try it again with some oil in the cylinder to determine it is rings ( if it comes up higher it is rings). If it stays close to the same it is in the head/upper end causing lower compression. Let me know
Hi Todd, Thanks for the update. Let me know
I replaced the 2 magnetic pickups today. I was also able to get an accurate compression test. The results were 440 psi on all 4 cylinders.
I searched online and found the procedure to get into the Service Menu of the system and clear all the codes. I started it and the code 920.05 came back. I also realized that the fuel pressure is shown under the Diagnostics portion of the Service Menu. When running it was 30-33 psi. When I shut it down the pressure dropped to 22 very quickly then stayed there. I will let it sit overnight then in the morning check the pressure before I attempt to start it. I am assuming that this is the internal fuel rail pressure. Any Ideas?
I found the engine repair manual available for under 15 in PDF for immediate download. It will have all your specs and schematics as well as repair info.
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/278800718-jd-powertech-2-4l-3-0l-diesel
Hi, do not use the last link I posted as I believe it is the mechanical injectors/pumps prior to this series with the fuel control rack. Here is the correct manual. it is under 30.
After sitting overnight I checked the fuel pressure on the control panel and it was 0. As soon as I cranked it the fuel pressure went to 30 psi almost immediately but it had the same hard start condition. When I shut it down, the fuel pressure slowly dropped to 0. It took about 3-5 minutes. I had the fuel return line disconnected during this time and no fuel came out of it while the pressure was dropping. I assume the fuel rail / galley does not hold much volume so even the slightest leak would drop the pressure quickly. I was holding off buying the tech manual until I saw what happened this morning. Could it possibly be an injection pump?
Hi Todd, Thanks for the update. It is possible but lets rule out the least expensive items first like the transfer pump. Install a clear hose before and after the transfer pump and check to see if it is bleeding back through the pump to tank. Also monitor for air bubbles indicating it is sucking in air. Let me know.
Pleasure to help
Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you. Weather here in Tucson has been rough.
I didn't have any clear tube to check the pump but I did put an inline pressure gauge on the output side of the fuel filter to see if the pressure I was reading at the service menu was correct. I noticed that while the machine is running it was impossible to read the pressure gauge because the needle was so erratic. I then shut it down and the pressure slowly dropped from 28 psi to 8 psi in about 10 minutes. I clamped off the fuel return line close to where it goes into the tank and retested. The pressure still dropped. I then clamped off the fuel suction line after I shut the engine off and the pressure didn't drop.
Another test that I did was, while the engine is running, I clamped off the fuel line in between the pressure gauge and where it enters the engine (dead-heading the pump) and the needle immediately stabilized at 40 psi.
Thoughts? Is there a check valve in the pump and / or one in the filter housing?
Hi thanks for the info. I can not look it up unfortunately as the site has been down all day for Deere. but here is the link you can access. Keep checking for it to be back online.
The site is back up now which is good. How Erratic is the gauge pulsing? just a little from injector pulse or is it all over the place?
It sounds like the transfer pump is allowing fuel to bleed back to the tank. also this engine has individual pumps for each cylinder and they do have to be shimmed correctly for them to be synchronized and timed properly. sounds like number 4 is giving you the problem. Try swapping 4 with #1 for test purposes and see if the problem moves with it or replace number 4. Let me know
Somehow the fuel is bleeding back to the tank on the suction side. It's very slow but it definitely is bleeding back. I would think that there should be a check valve in the transfer pump that wouldn't allow fuel to go back from the pressure side.
Yes these pumps need to be shimmed correctly to be timed right. Replace the primer pump as it should not bleed back as it is.
The concerning factor on #4 is the unburned fuel which flags it for a problem as the compression test cam out good.
I agree about the unburned fuel at #4. If I swap the pumps leaving the shims on each pump to test it, will it run?
It should be fine for test purposes. The older style with the fuel control rack is a bit more picky when it comes to synchronization of the injectors since it is mechanical. just be sure to keep track of the shims and their location. Take a look at the cam lobe on #4 as well for any wear.
It is best if you measure and set them according to the manual even if you do have to buy some shims. This will confirm if the problem moves with #4 and you can use the shims if you end up replacing #4 after confirmation.
I will check all this out and let you know.
Thanks again Dan
Pleasure to help Todd
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