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Are there any mechanics on here that understand the electrical…

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Are there any mechanics on...
Are there any mechanics on here that understand the electrical and fuel systems on a Mustang model 2040 skidsteer?
I recently purchased it from someone who hauled it out of a field. I am not getting any black smoke. I am getting 6 volts from the nuetral safety switch up to the control module instead of 12 volts. Seems suspicious to me. I am having trouble seperating whether it is a fuel or electrical issue because there are so many safety interlocks on this machine, but I understand why they are there.
I have replaced the stop solenoid and two of the 4 fuel injectors. I hear the fuel solenoid actuating and think it is operating correctly.
I have the service manual for this machine, but it leaves the motor out of the details.
It has a Yanmar 4TNE84-EMS engine
Submitted: 10 years ago.Category: Construction and Road Equipment
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Answered in 12 hours by:
8/29/2012
Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 10 years ago
Dan
Dan, Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 14,846
Experience: 17+ yrs. shop and field experience with all major brands of heavy equipment and trucks - 1995 WyoTech graduate.
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HeavyEquipmentTech :

Hi my name isXXXXX will try to help. Try spraying silicone spray (preferred over either) directly into the turbo inlet/intake using short bursts while someone is cranking. If the machine tries to start then it is definately a fuel problem. check that you have power to the fuel shut off solenoid/switch at your injection pump with the ignition switch on. If not then run power to it from a seperat source for test purposes and try starting. If the machine starts then it is likely a wiring or safety interlock circuit problem. Thoroughly check your fuses, relays and harness as if this was sitting in a field the critters could have caused some damage. Make sure your fuel system is bled, there is not dry rotted fuel lines that could be sucking air into the system. Try installing a clear hose between the tank and fuel pump to monitor for air bubbles. also you can try running the machine from a seperate fuel container but be sure the system is bled. Try cracking the injection lines one at a time while cranking to bleed the remaining air. If you are not getting fuel from the lines then go back and check the operation of your fuel shut of with the ignition switch.... If there is still troubles then it is possibly you have a faulty injection pump... I hope this helps..... Let me know if you need further assistance.... thanks for using JA


 

Dan
Dan, Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 14,846
Experience: 17+ yrs. shop and field experience with all major brands of heavy equipment and trucks - 1995 WyoTech graduate.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago


Dan,


You bring up some good thoughts. I did spray WD 40, and when that did not make a difference, I used some PB Blaster silicone spray. Neither made it cough, but did make some black smoke. I keep getting hung up on the 6 volts going over to the fuel solonoid. That should be my actuating voltage (current) for the fuel solonoid and then there is a 12 volt leg for "keep alive" current. The keep alive is 12 volts, the actuating is 6 volt when I turn the key to "start". If I lift the lead to the starter solonoid, it becomes 12 volts when I turn the key, and you can hear the solonoid plunger actuate. Of course, the machine does not roll over because the starter solonoid is disconnected.


I took the starter to a local shop to test the solonoid and the starter tested fine, but it is the solonoid that I question. He said there is no way to test it, but offered to try and find me one.


With the solonoid lead lifted, and with 12 volts actuation voltage going to the fuel solonoid, I placed a jumper from the battery to the starter solonoid mounting plate and the engine rolls, but still no cough.


I pulled a fuel nozzle and connected the fuel pipe to it with the nozzle out of the machine and rolled the engine. There was no discharge from the nozzle. So I think I have a fuel injector pump issue, as well as a electrical distractor of a 6 volt trouble maker.

Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 10 years ago
Yes it sounds like you have an injection pump issue. Before pulling the pump try disconnecting the 6v lead and jumping 12v separately to the solenoid with a jumper wire off of ignition switchable power.... Just to make sure the solenoid is doing it job to open up the pump for injection.... If so and there is still no injection then send the pump out for repair.... hope your having a great Labor Day weekend.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago


I thought I was smarter than this, but I cannot get the injection pump out. I removed the 3 retaining nuts, and the governor cable, and the pump seperates by about a half inch from the mounting surface and stops. Since this is gear driven, I removed an access plate on the end of the gear sump and located a nut on the end of the cam shaft, plus 4 other nuts on the gear. I removed the nut on the end. Do I also remove the 4 nuts and the gear slides off as you pull it? Looks very callenging to re-assemble if that is the case.


Thanks

Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 10 years ago
Make sure you are on #1 TDC before removing the pump and if it helps, mark the gear teeth where they mesh to be certain on reassembly as well as the position your pump was in for timing. Is there another plate that bolts to the front cover that the studs go into? If so then the pump will come out when you remove those bolts with the gear attached. If not then the gear will have to be pulled off of the pump....If you could upload a pic of the mounting by using the paper clip it would be helpful so I can be sure we are on the same page. I hope ya had a great Labor Day weekend!
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

Daniel,


I did remove the 4 bolts holding the gear to the back side of the gear sump and the pump slid out with no problem. The pump and gear have a key to make sure it goes back the way it came out. Being able to see it is another thing because of the clearence in that area.


I took the pump to a repair shop and found that the plunger that is supposed to fall back onto the stop solonoid was stuck in the shut position, easily explaining why there was no fuel coming out the discharge.


I have to go pick it up, but it will be Thursday at the earliest before i can do anything with it.


Thanks for coach. I hope to hear what it sounds like in the near future.


Ken

Mechanic: Dan, Technician replied 10 years ago
Thanks for the update and thanks for using JA.
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