Donnie, I have a question about engine coolant temperature…

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Donnie, I have a question about engine coolant temperature…

Donnie, I have a question about...

Donnie,
I have a question about engine coolant temperature sensor. very frustrating trying to figure this thing out. it has 8 volts going to it. it has 7.4 volts going back to gauge but voltage never changes. temp gauge always pegged even at startup. when you turn key on it cycles from cold to hot then stays pegged from then on. if i unplug sensor there is no change at gauge. does this gauge have to have to voltage to go back to 0 even unplugged. let tractor warm up to do fill calibration and temp sensor voltage never changed. for catmastertech

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Answered in 25 minutes by:

8/21/2012

Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 8 years ago

catmastertech, Technician

Category: Construction and Road Equipment

Satisfied Customers: 3,406

Experience: Field service technician for CAT 19 years.

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catmastertech :

I guess this is still the D5M we have been on?

Customer:

yes sir

catmastertech :

Have you tried using a jumper wire to see if the fault code will change?

Customer:

yes i cut wires and jumped to gauge, no change. also tried to clear code with no success

Customer:

soldered back together and used shrink tubes

catmastertech :

Then the wiring harness must have an open circuit. Does you manual have the schematic with it?

Customer:

it does, i need a little help with this part. how do i determine what is open.

catmastertech :

Full Size Image

catmastertech :

Start with the signal return wire. We know voltage is going to the sensor.

catmastertech :

Disconnect the harness from the back of the monitor and connect to pin 8 with you multi-meter and the other lead to pin C the 411orange wire at the sensor.

Customer:

saw that in schematic. i have 8 volts at temp sensor from. ground is good with no voltage. white wire is sender 7.4 volts

catmastertech :

Set meter to ohms and read continuity through the wire. It must read 5 ohms or less.

catmastertech :

I am looking at the harness side of the sensor plug, not the sensor side. 411 orange wire is on the harness side.

Customer:

do i need to check cont on all three wires of just orange.

Customer:

orange wire the power supply to sender

catmastertech :

You want to only contact the single wire. 411 orange at each end. Reading ohms so the resistance in the wire. A good wire will have less than 5 ohm resistance. (normally it is 2 to 3 ohms) If reading is (OL) wire is broken in the harness.

Customer:

white wire signal sender wire back to gauge

Customer:

ok can i run another wire or try to troubleshoot at each connector throughout harness

Customer:

testing ohms

catmastertech :

Disconnect the harness from the back of the monitor and connect to pin 8 with you multi-meter and the other lead to pin C (the 411 orange wire) at the sensor harness plug.

catmastertech :

Yes, ohms and the lowest setting if the meter is not auto setting.

catmastertech :

Pin 8 will also be the 411 orange wire.

catmastertech :

Have you pulled the dash open before?

Customer:

had dash open today checking cont on sender wire to make sure i had right wire. it was on buzz so didnt check reading

Customer:

it was a pink wire 441 that i checked, this is the sending wire that voltage never changed on

catmastertech :

That should work for most testing but, I like to know exactly what condition the wire is in. A high resistance may allow it it to work but, it would be reading wrong. If it has ground, then I know wire is rubbed through to ground.

catmastertech :

Color can be different from the guide's general schematic and the actual service schematic.

catmastertech :

What is the serial number of this tractor?

Customer:

colors and numbers on schematic match tractor 6gn00451

catmastertech :

OH! I need better glasses! I see it is 441 not 411, duh.

catmastertech :

Did the ground wire have a low ohm reading or did you just listen for the buzz?

Customer:

buzz

catmastertech :

447 is the pink wire to the fuel gauge and is on pin 9. Is this the wire you were testing>

Customer:

is there a way to check acutal gauge if wire ohms is good.

Customer:

i may need to recheck tommorow. i had help today and that wire could have been easily misread

catmastertech :

Yes it is under the dynamic test in the book.

Customer:

ok

catmastertech :

Also chart in sensor signal test, both are in the back of the book.

catmastertech :

MONITOR BOOK

catmastertech :

not engine or transmission

Customer:

saw that today, is that test were you check signal wire to body for ohms

Customer:

body of sensor

catmastertech :

No, this is a test with the circuit connected. You will need to slide a pin or cable spoon (if you have them) in the harness on the back of the connector. The test is at the monitor to see if voltage is going to the monitor is correct for the temperature shown.

catmastertech :

If the voltage to the monitor is correct, the gauge could be the fault. I doubt it is the problem since you have the(NNN) NNN-NNNN08 fault code.

Customer:

sorry checked that and that is where i got 7.4 volts constant no matter temp. if i understand correctly the voltage should rise from 0 to 8.5 max range.

catmastertech :

Yes, if temperature changed and the voltage did not, the sensor is the fault.

Customer:

thats the way i understand it but my question is even with sensor unhooked the gauge stays pegged. it cycles at startup and stays pegged

Customer:

this normal

catmastertech :

I was just thinking about that, I got off track there. Sorry about that. I am still concerned about the harness to the monitor. It is the most common repair I preform on these machines.

catmastertech :

Since you could not change the state of the fault code with the jumper wire, that also makes me think you have a wire problem

Customer:

should i run a new wire the whole way

Customer:

how do i keep wire from melting with out heat shield

catmastertech :

When you ground the 8 volt wire, you should get an active code. Ground the signal wire and you should get a different active code. If this does not change the current active code, you have a harness problem.

catmastertech :

I have used extension cords to make bypass harness' or pick-up some wire loom from the nearest auto store.

Customer:

i think the grounded signal wire is the code i getting

Customer:

im guessing bypassing one wire at time to eliminate each one

catmastertech :

08 is abnormal signal, 04 would be short or low voltage.

catmastertech :

You already know the 8 volt wire is ok, nothing else to test there.

catmastertech :

You should check the ground wire and the sensor harness plug to see if it has a good connection to ground (5 ohms or less)

Customer:

ok im a little slow understanding. the extension cord wasnt for test but permanant fix

catmastertech :

You should also check the 441 orange wire for continuity (5 ohms or less) and then for short to ground or short to voltage at each end of the connector.

catmastertech :

Yes the cord has work well for me in the past. Make sure to tie it up away from the heat. Most are not high temp rated.

catmastertech :

The 441 orange wire should not have a good ground. Ohms will be very high or (OL) be sure to perform this test with both ends disconnected.

Customer:

why is ohms different on orange wire in harness, dont understand that

catmastertech :

Check 441 orange wire for voltage with the monitor connected and the sensor disconnected. You do not want to find 24 volts on it. It should be very low if any voltage. If you have voltage on the wire, you could have a power wire rubbed into the signal wire causing the high than normal voltage. This is not common but, does happen.

catmastertech :

When you are checking for a short to ground, the ohms should be high because you do not want a short to ground on the signal wire.

catmastertech :

Sorry, I know this is getting confusing when we are trying to answer each others questions at different times.

catmastertech :

Following the troubleshooting guide step by step may keep things in better order than me just jumping around with different tests

Customer:

if i understand the monitor feeds the 8 volts to the temp sensor via 441 orange, so there should be 8 volts +-, may be confused with k997 wire

catmastertech :

F797 is the power supply of the 8 volts to all the sensors. 441 is the signal wire going back to the monitor.

catmastertech :

OOPs.

catmastertech :

That is the generic picture

catmastertech :

sorry

catmastertech :

Your right the K997 wire is the power supply.

Customer:

good thought i was going crazy

catmastertech :

Look at it this way. The K997 wire sends power to all the sensors of the monitor. If this wire was dead, no gauge would read correctly.

catmastertech :

The signal wire is FROM each sensor to the monitor.

catmastertech :

This is true for all the monitor sensors.

catmastertech :

Switches will be a different story, let not go there for now.

catmastertech :

Let me verify that, this is true for sensors with three wires.

catmastertech :

Fuel gauge only has two wire s and will operate the old fashion way.

Customer:

ok the other three gauges are working, fuel gauge seems a little sparatic though, but lets not go there now

Customer:

on the other hand i did a lot test on alternator today. alternator is charging. 27.2 volts at alternator ground to housing and to frame. voltage at battery 24.6 engine off. battery with engine running 25.8 and battery to frame 25.7. .32 volts at green wire on alternator. battery light is still on. when key is turned on battery light stays on until heater solenoid kicks off and battery light goes off. when started light comes back on. got a clamp on amp meter tonight to check draw. is this the right direction. could temp sensor wires cause light to come on.

catmastertech :

I don't remember ever having temp light effect battery light.

Customer:

ideas battery light

catmastertech :

.32 at the wire or the terminal the green wire is connected?

Customer:

terminal

Customer:

.2

i thought book says .2 and above ok

catmastertech :

Yes, the alternator should be good. I think the wire back to the monitor is the problem. It has been a problem for several machines I have repaired. Some deal, a broken wire in the harness to the monitor. That wire has usually be broken were it enters the loom. If you pull it and it stretches, the is were the wire is broken.

Customer:

loom?

catmastertech :

Check the 403 green wire for continuity from the terminal connector to the monitor pin 30

catmastertech :

Loom or the braided insulation

Customer:

ok is there a draw on batteries while machine is off and disconnect on

catmastertech :

Only a slight draw. .2 amps is common. I have seen tractors without lights have the light switch left on and cause a higher draw. The dash lights will be on and they are hard to see in daylight.

Customer:

your saying dash lights are on 24 hours a day if key is off and disconnect is left on

catmastertech :

Yes, they are not tied to the keyswitch.

Customer:

ok lots to check tomorrow.

Customer:

im on unlimited plan, so how do you get paid this way? you are a great help and i want to be fair

catmastertech :

You will need to rate the question (accept the answer) for me to get paid. At least that is what I am told. Don't worry about it for now. The question will hold for a few days. Go ahead with the repairs and we can work on other questions later.

catmastertech :

By the way, the dash light is the first position of the light switch.

catmastertech :

That is how they get missed allot. The operator turns off the lights but, not the dash lamps.

catmastertech :

Or someone is playing with the switch and don't see any head lights so they think nothing is on. Seen it many times.

Customer:

that switch will turn off dash lights

catmastertech :

Yes, it must be turned all the way counterclockwise

.

catmastertech :

It is just wired straight to the battery for the dash lamps.

catmastertech :

Work light are wire to the ky switch side of the light switch.

catmastertech :

Weird to have two power sources to a light switch

catmastertech :

CAT likes weird~

Customer:

that is weird--bet that has caused lots of dead batteries

catmastertech :

Makes for an easy field call though!

Customer:

one last thing, the green monitor wire from alter-you said i need to check ohms. does this mean that if the alte doest send .2 volts or higher to monitor light will flash

Customer:

battery light

catmastertech :

I think that is right, I have found so many of the wires broken that I have not checked it myself.

catmastertech :

Or I find the alternator not charging and replace it because the customer ordered it and told me to install it.

Customer:

i think i understand, i know i ask a lot of questions but i just want to clarify everything to make sure i understand

Customer:

u still work for cat

catmastertech :

That ok, I am not sure I explain it well enough. I want to be sure you are on the right track.

catmastertech :

YES

Customer:

thanks again, i will let you know how repairs go------sure i will have moooore questions

catmastertech :

OK, good luck

Customer: Green terminal on alt showing 26.6 volts engine running. Green wire is broken to battery light. Put a jumper to bypass bad wire but light still stays on. How can I force light to go off to check

catmastertech :

At the input for the alternator terminal "R" (connector contact 30), the terminal "R" of the alternator provides an AC signal to the main display module. The main display module determines the speed of the alternator by measuring the frequency (Hz) of the AC signal. The alternator R terminal helps determine the condition of the electrical charging system. Harness wiring directly connects the alternator terminal "R" to the sensor input for the alternator "R". The information on the alternator terminal "R" is used with other inputs (engine oil pressure, engine speed, etc) in order to determine when the engine is running.

catmastertech :

The input for battery voltage (connector contact 1 and 2) provides the main display module with power. The voltage input is also used by the main display module to monitor the machine electrical system. This information from the voltage helps determine the condition of the electrical system.

When an alert indicator is used in order to indicate the voltage of the machine system, the battery signal is combined with the signal for the terminal "R" within the main display module. When an electrical system fault occurs, there are two possible warning categories. The category is set by the type of fault.

Category 1 - The frequency for the terminal "R" from the alternator is less than 90 Hz or the system voltage is greater than 29.5 volts for at least 2 seconds. The system voltage is less than 24.8 volts for 2 seconds or more.

Category 3 - The system voltage is less than 23.0 volts for 2 seconds or more. The system voltage is greater than 32.0 volts for at least 2 seconds.

catmastertech :

If these parameters are being met, then the problem is likely the monitor. No way to bypass this light that I am aware of.

catmastertech :

I have heard of some that needed the monitor module initialization procedure done to correct it when they go stupid. Follow the steps in the Testing and Adjusting section for Main Display Module Initialization - Adjust

catmastertech :

The code plug is behind the dash. See image for the wire numbers.

catmastertech :

Full Size Image

catmastertech :

I have not done this but, was told it may fix the problem.

catmastertech :

If you must replace the monitor, you must order the face decal separately. Use the part number on the decal currently on the monitor. Parts book does not list the decal number or I haven't found them. I just get the number form the old one. (much easier)

catmastertech :

Some must be flash programmed by the dealer. I think this is old enough it will come with the software already installed.

Customer: To follow up on temp sensor, checked ground wire for voltage at sensor connector-nothing, checked orange wire 2.4 ohms, 0 voltage. Blue wire 8.02 volts so I think it's safe to say its temp sensor

catmastertech :

Yes, I believe it is the main problem. I am still concerned it did not change codes when you jumped the wires. It should have switched to the 110-04 code when signal wire was shorted and a different code for the power supply shorted. I would try the new sensor before I went into cutting the harness.

Customer: Also from previous post you were telling me about transmission screen with magnet. Can't find it. Cleaned plug in torque converter but no strainer there. Cleaned small strainer with spring on top

catmastertech :

That is the converter screen. I will get a picture for you.

Customer: The other plug I cleaned had oring with no strainer, looked like flywheel through hole

catmastertech :

Full Size Image

catmastertech :

Remove the bottom guard in order to gain access to the screen and magnet assembly.

Remove bolts (1) and cover (2) .

Remove screen (3) and magnet assembly (4) from the housing.

Wash the screen and the magnet assembly in a clean, nonflammable solvent.

Inspect the seal. If the seal is damaged, install a new seal.

Install the screen and the magnet assembly.

Install the cover on the screen housing.

Install the bottom guard.

catmastertech :

Drain the transmission before you remove the screen and magnet assembly.

Customer: Getting new oring tomorrow from cat, should a sealant of any type be used also

Customer: Fyi all question are regarding d5m, that's only thing I have except skid loader. Back to alternator, there are 3 posts on alternator, green wire is monitor terminal, red wire is voltage supply, what's other post- nothing there. There of course is ground to casing also

catmastertech :

No, just clean the grove of any debris. Check cover to make sure it is flat. It is rare to have any that leak.

catmastertech :

Do you see a part number on the alternator?

Customer: Painted over

Customer: It was small drip while engine off, but afraid air may be getting in system

catmastertech :

Are the post on the top or back?

Customer: Top

Customer: All close together except ground

Customer: Green wire has post that wire pushes on, other 2 are threaded posts

catmastertech :

I think that post is another feed to operate a tachometer for other uses. It is not used on any dozer though.

catmastertech :

It is not called out in any of the books I have,

catmastertech :

Backhoe loaders use it the most.

Customer: Tried to check hz today with no luck. I have a Green lee clamp on tester that has hz button. Says to check voltage first then hit hz button. Any ideas, machine was running

Customer: Tester also has leads volts amps dc ac ohms etc

Customer: Had tester on dc volts with pos lead on main alt terminal, black to ground

catmastertech :

Hertz is one of those items I have only used once. It was to test a speed sensor and I haven't used it since. I don't remember anything special about setting the meter except to place the test leads in the correct plug. I curse myself every time I forget to move my leads. I think most meters read it in A/C but, I am not sure if it was volts or amps. Search you meter part number on line and see if you can find a manual to help you set it correctly.

catmastertech :

Hertz reading is only for the "R" terminal the green wire is on.

Customer: Ok, have to mow, will check back later

catmastertech :

OK, I will look for your reply tomorrow. Thanks, Donnie.

Customer: Still can't find screen and magnet. Are there 5 bolts and drain plug in cover. Do all machines have screen and magnets

catmastertech :

Here are some images that may help to narrow it down for you.

catmastertech :

Full Size Image

catmastertech :

Full Size Image

catmastertech :

Full Size Image

catmastertech :

I had some free time and saw your reply. Hope this helps.

Customer: Found it, did not realize it was in tank wall- cat dealer told me

Customer: Tried monitor initialization. Didnt work. Unplugged harness code plug. Turned key on. Digital display blinked off and on showing hours of machine. That's all it did. Manual says initialization requires that the main display module be powered up with a valid harness code that is different than the harness code when it was last powered down. What does this mean

catmastertech :

That would make the changes to switch internal controls to the new parameters and program. Monitors are mostly the same, code plug programs it to the machine and the decal matches the machine controls for specific machine. If part of the program got dropped, re-initialization will re-program the circuit.

I would retest the circuit completely to verify full voltage is going to the monitor. This must be done with the connector install in the monitor. Use a cable probe or needle to tap into the wire at the monitor and read voltage while engine is running. Compare to reading at the R terminal on the alternator. If circuit is correct, the monitor must be the problem. Maybe the dealer can locate a used one for you.

Customer: The battery light now comes after running about 10 seconds. Have a jumper wire from alt right now. And it may not be getting good connection. It was coming on as soon as key is turned on and never went off. I'll take this a little improvement. Any other ideas. I will check voltage at monitor. By the way, new temp sensor fixed problem. Also screen and magnet replaced. 4 business cards and a lot of plastic in strainer. Cards-cat dealer in ms. How can I get monitor initialization to start? Will also check monitor voltage Tom.

catmastertech :

Have you checked the intake heater for staying on? You said the light had come on before. It should not be on unless it is cold weather.

catmastertech :

What color was the plastic? Can you post a picture?

catmastertech :

The business cards have me stumped, I have no idea why anyone would put them in a transmission.

catmastertech :

Unplug code plug and turn on key will start the initalization. Turn off key and connect code plug to reset to code plug parameters.

Customer: The battery light is what I was referring to. The heater light goes off after a few seconds. With key on only you can here a solenoid or some type relay time out after few seconds, but it does not go off at same time bat light comes on now.

Customer: Black plastic, will post pic tomorrow. Cannister power train filter was damaged crushed on inside also. Don know how this could happen without knowing it when installed. Showed to local dealer--- they were shocked too. With all the trash etc, do you think I should recheck trans clutch pressures and redo fill?

Customer: Harness code. Went through those steps this morn. Book says it only takes 10 seconds. Display blinks on and off----I let it do that for about a minute and finally turned key off and reinserted plug. Should I alow more time?

catmastertech :

No more time should be needed. I have not done this to correct a problem. I was told by another tech, it fixed has light problem. I am not sure of which light he was having issues with.

I meant to check the power to the heater anyway. The light may go off but, if the relay is sticking, the battery draw would be high and could keep the light on.

catmastertech :

I have seen filters assembled with impact wrenches and damage the filter. The nut is self-locking, it only needs to be snug but, some guys get crazy with an impact gun.

catmastertech :

The black pieces could be thrust washer, did the transmission get a rebuild recently?

catmastertech :

I would watch pump pressure while the machine is warming to see if pump pressure falls when hot. Check at low idle regularly, as the oil warms, the pressure will drop allot if pump is worn.

Customer: Can there be active serve codes on machine that don't show up on main display unless using the clicker box.

catmastertech :

None that I have seen. Unless you have the product link satellite communications box and small antennae.

Customer: Checking pressures- pressure tap at transmission filter 420 psi , tap 6 inches below that on side of same piece 100 at low idle--190 high idle. Are there other taps I need to check and are these pressures right?

Customer: Are there other taps on trans side and what pressure will I be looking for. Where are taps and pressures needed on hydraulic side.

Customer: Tap by filter only changes about 10 psi low to high idle. Hope this helps you determine condition of power train and what else I need to do

catmastertech :

Pump seems to be good if it only looses 10 psi. That is the main pressure I start to see if machine is loosing pressure.

catmastertech :

I also operate machine through all speeds and directions at idle to see if any of those functions are loosing pressure.

catmastertech :

Hydraulic pressure tap is on the side of the valve. One is signal to the pump and the other is pump pressure. (I think that is right, I will need to look up in the book to be sure.

catmastertech :

I like to see oil samples done regularly but, this can be a hassle if you are away from the dealer. It is a good reference to see if dirt or fuel or water is in the oil though.

Customer: Will check pressures moving in all gears. It won't turn very well at idle in first gear

catmastertech :

It does not need to move you can do them all holding the brake.

catmastertech :

Just shift through each one while watching the gauge.

Customer: Ok

Customer: Won't turn in any gear idle, that normal

catmastertech :

Yes, engine can idle fine down to 600 rpm but, they don't really move until 900 rpm.

Customer: Ok good

catmastertech :

If it must run above 1100 rpm to begin moving, you could have a problem.

catmastertech :

Some common things are failed idlers

catmastertech :

trash in tracks

catmastertech :

or rocks

catmastertech :

Lower tap was converter inlet pressure.

catmastertech :

It is low pressure and will drop more when hot, this is normal.

Customer: Tractor clean- hasn't been in any wet dirt since I owned it. The pressure on lower tap didn't drop much when hot, idle to high idle 90 psi pressure change

catmastertech :

That is good. some will fall down to 40-50 psi, it is only a maximum pressure anyway. being lower is not an issue.

Customer: Tractor needs to be towards high idle to do much at all,n

Customer: That normal

catmastertech :

Is this a wide track machine?

Customer: No

catmastertech :

Does the converter run very hot?

catmastertech :

Temp gauge stay in red?

Customer: New pads,bottom rollers, chains

catmastertech :

New pads will add load to it.

catmastertech :

D5M are weak anyway. Most forget is is only a D4H re-badged an a 6 cylinder engine.

catmastertech :

D6M works better but, it is too light for heavy work.

catmastertech :

Both are only "Utility tractors"

catmastertech :

Building pads and parking lots.

catmastertech :

I will be away for a little while and check back in later. Can I help you with anything else?

Customer: Is there a way to check torque converter

Customer: Should I be able to operate machine at 1500 rpm doing light grade work. It will push at that rpm but won't turn very well. Are they designed to run wide open?

catmastertech :

Full throttle is the best for all performance.

catmastertech :

Small tractors today are not made to work at the slow speeds that the old tractors use to run at.

catmastertech :

The torque converter was the biggest change. To take advantage of the smaller engines with higher horsepower, the converter stall speeds are higher, around 1600 rpm

catmastertech :

That means it will not achieve the drive lock to transmit power until it is at that speed.

catmastertech :

Just checked, spec for this tractor is 1500 rpm

catmastertech :

Full throttle helps keep the cooling system working at it best as well.

catmastertech :

Make sure fan belt is tight AND the separate water pump belt.

Customer: Ok that's good to know, only real issue I have is battery light. With key on, now the light does not come on. That's a change, but still comes on when started

Customer: Did not get to check relay or monitor voltage, tomorrow

catmastertech :

Does it stay on? What was the voltage after running the engine, at start-up and then after 10 minutes running above idle.

Customer: Stays on, at alt, bat, or where

catmastertech :

I mean, is the battery light staying on after engine has been running for a few minutes above idle?

Customer: Y, never goes off while running

catmastertech :

Ok, I have seen several that would not go off until throttle was raised. Slow engine speed can prevent charging until speed is higher.

Customer: Ran engine for 20 minutes high idle the other day to warm up transmission fluid to 160. Never went off

Customer: For fill cal

catmastertech :

Don't forget the simple stuff. Make sure belt is tight and not worn down into pulley. A belt the runs against the bottom of the groove will slip and can prevent charging.

catmastertech :

I have seen some were the belt would slip and the batteries had a hard time charging after starting. It took several minutes before the light would go out. I guess the belt got hot enough to stick again and drive the pulley at the correct speed.

Customer: Ok will check belts

catmastertech :

The thing I would notice first is, the fan would turn after the engine was shutoff.

Customer: Ran temp wire from alt to monitor but I still need to solder plug to wire at alt

Customer: Wire wrapped around pole on alt right now. Not the best connection.

catmastertech :

Yes that may help. I hope it will solve the problem. I don't remember a CMS monitor fail with a light on. Usually they just quit. I have seen lights stay on with the old EMS panels but, they were completely different.

Customer: Fuel gauge seems like there might be a problem. Tonight while checking pressures the gauge would show 1/4 tank then a minute later would shoe empty with fuel light on. Never moved machine. High idle

Customer: If shorting to ground ,would that make gauge show full or empty

Customer: When full it will show full, so it's working some

catmastertech :

I don't try to remember which way it works, some are opposite. I just disconnect it for an open circuit, the ground it for short cicuit. It should sweep from one side to the other for normal operation.

catmastertech :

I guess you have seen the sender behind the seat?

Customer: Not yet

Customer: The power to sending unit comes from monitor, could that cause battery light to come on if shorting

catmastertech :

No, most of these tractors have a fuel gauge problem. I have seen many senders fall apart and wires shorted or cut but, never cause a light to stay on except the fuel level warning light.

Customer: Is the battery light a issue that needs to be fixed ? I need to move dozer back to farm in a couple days.

Customer: Last thing what fluid should I use in trans. Lost a little changing screens and magnets

Customer: Will fuses protect monitor in event of high voltage

catmastertech :

As long the voltage is not above 28 volts or below 21 volts, it should work fine.

catmastertech :

High volts will cause ecms to shutoff. It usually takes over 32 volts to cause this.

catmastertech :

You will smell batteries cooking when that happens.

catmastertech :

TDTO 30W is the spec'

Customer: Thanks Donnie, you have been a lifesaver. Hope to finish up tomorrow

catmastertech :

TO 4 is the spec to use for other than CAT oil.

catmastertech :

Glad to help. I like these tractors. Not too much electronics but, modern enough to enjoy operating.

Customer: I've had a chance to run my d5m now for 50 hours or so. Couple of issues. Left trac gets loose after 4 or 5 days. If I cross a ditch I can see cylinder move in and back out when I get leveled out. Initial start up, hard to start - smokes a lot. White smoke. Maybe air in fuel or fuel leaking in cylinders when stopped. After about 45 seconds it will run perfect for rest of day with no smoke at all. Last the left brake needs adjusting. Tried with clicker box-no change. Tried to accept and finish answer but won't let me. Send me something so I can send you $. thanks Derek

catmastertech, Technician

Category: Construction and Road Equipment

Satisfied Customers: 3,406

Experience: Field service technician for CAT 19 years.

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